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3v0 said:I agree with Harvey and use a HP 1020.
Some place I read the you should avoid refilled and non name brand toner cartridges. Toner is plastic that melts. It was said that the off brand toner uses less plastic and makes up the difference with some sort of filler that does not fuse.
If the toner is fused to the copper that can not happen.Dean Huster said:Ah. There was a product like that that pre-dated the PnP and was supposedly useful for making decals for front panels. I hated the stuff since all I ever seemed to end up with was alphabet soup in the water.
Dean
Shax said:...
I've moved over to photosensitive boards, and a home brew UV led lightbox.
HerbertMunch said:Same here, the detail that can be achieved with the photographic method is amazing.
Im totally sick of all the missing traces that occur when ironing on toner.
With the photoresist boards, you just setup the light and the mask, and then you can just leave it for however long your light takes to expose the board.
I find the p&p too expensive, and i feel guilty about using it!
Exposing boards takes away the hit and miss element that toner method has associated with it.
Hero999 said:I like the photographic method too.
The method I use depends on the board I'm doing; for simple designs I use the transfer process and for detailed designs I use the photographic process.
Although I have not tried it there is a method where you put a dowel under the board and roll it while you iron. Sort of a poor man's laminator. See Pulsar site for info.HerbertMunch said:that sounds about right to me, but id also use it if was doing multiple copies.
3v0,
a guarenteed laminator? sounds good. When i get my next student loan money, perhaps i will buy it.
...
chris
Pulsar Paper 3 cents per square inch
Surplus PCB 3 cents per square inch
-----------------------------------------
Total 6 cents per square inch
Now it is time to Hoover out the shack with all the doors and windows closed. Seriously! I am not kidding, any traces of dust for the next stage will cause you to waste the expensive spray laquer we use. I ALWAYS Hoover the workshop, then I Hoover the inside of an old light-tight shoebox, paying attention to all the carboard seams and corners, even the lid. By this time the washed board should be completely dry. Lay the board inside the shoebox with the copper side up then continue with the hoover to make sure the board is free from dust.