solder lug transformer

[max1000000]

I have the transformer shown in the link below:

https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&pa=101864&productId=101864

It didn't come with hook-up instructions and it has 115/230 input capability.

With reference to the four solder lugs pictured (obviously input section) how should such a device be wired for 115V input?

(My ability to contact these people during business hours is severly limited and apparently they want money for the answer)

 

[Rolf]

I have the transformer shown in the link below:

https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&pa=101864&productId=101864

It didn't come with hook-up instructions and it has 115/230 input capability.

With reference to the four solder lugs pictured (obviously input section) how should such a device be wired for 115V input?

(My ability to contact these people during business hours is severly limited and apparently they want money for the answer)

Why no location filled in?
For maximum current output, the two primary windings must be in parallel. They must also be in-phase. Just hook them up with a meter on the output, if the voltage is not correct reverse one of the primary windings.

 

[Hero999]

If you've reversed one of the primary windings then your transformer won't last for very long.

 

[max1000000]

Hummm, four terminals, 2 wires from 110. I am sorry I'm so dunderheaded but there are several (not two) possibilities here.

1. short two on left and two on right and connect to the resulting two.
2. Connect to the left most and right most terminals and ignore the others.
3, 4, 5, ... (4!)?

Rolf your strategy looks good were there only two permutations. What would you recommend here?

Sacrificing the transformer is not an option.

Canada

 

[kchriste]

Step1:
The safest way is to first connect the two primary windings in series. Then test on 110VAC. If your output winding reads apx 1/2 it's rated voltage then the jumper wire between the two primary windings connects to opposite phases of each coil. If your output is near zero, then reverse one of the windings.
Step2:
Now remove one end of the jumper wire from one primary winding and connect it to the other end of the same winding. Wire the remaining two primary windings terminals together. Now you're done.

 

[max1000000]

Alas, I think I understand the source of confusion. You see, this transformer has another set of lugs for output on the other side. I just want to know how to configure the 4 input lugs for 110 operation.

 

[Rolf]

Hummm, four terminals, 2 wires from 110. I am sorry I'm so dunderheaded but there are several (not two) possibilities here.

1. short two on left and two on right and connect to the resulting two.
2. Connect to the left most and right most terminals and ignore the others.
3, 4, 5, ... (4!)?

Rolf your strategy looks good were there only two permutations. What would you recommend here?

Sacrificing the transformer is not an option.

Canada

Just take your ohm-meter and locate one of the primaries, connect the VAC and then connect meter to the secondary, don't forget to set it for ACV.
Now you will have to just briefly connect the other primary, if the voltage on your meter stays the same you have it correct. If the voltage drops almost to zero reverse the leads.
Just remember to make the test connections only briefly, just long enough to read the meter.
Edit:
I think you are going to end up with 1 & 3 wired together and 2 & 4, counting from either end.

 

[john1]

Hi max1000000,

I like that type of winding layout.
They often do that on small supply transformers, presumably so that
you can see there is good insulation between the windings.
Insulation on the concentrically wound type can be just as good of
course, but you can't see it.
Also you can see that the window space is evenly shared between
windings, thats not so easy to judge on the other type.

As to your question, how to wire it for 115 volt working ....

If your power needs are less than about five or six watts, then
just use any pair on the primary side for the supply connections.
And ignore the remaining pair.

That will be fine as either primary winding will work independantly.

However, as Rolf says, you need them both for maximum output current.

Which takes us to the question of phasing.

This could be determined by connecting one side of the remaining pair
to your neutral, and measuring the difference between the remaining
terminal and your incoming supply live connection point.
If it were out of phase with the existing supply, you would measure
230 AC volts between them.
If it were in phase, there should be no difference, or maybe a very
slight reading.

There are other ways of course, using other equipment, but with
minimum equipment, that is the approach i would take.

In all likelihood you would be fine using only one winding anyway.

I hope the above is easy to understand, i re-wrote it a couple of
times, to try and make it clear.
If its not clear, maybe someone could write it in a clearer way.
Sometimes what is clear to me, is not clear to others.

Best of luck with it,
John

 

[things]

charging you for answers!!!!!!!! that's wrong, especially if they don't include the hook up info already!!!you could test the resistance between the pins, primary will be higher than the secondary

 

[max1000000]

Thank you everyone. It looks like I'll be doing some experimenting to determine the hook-up.

 

[grim]

visually the primary wire will be much much thinner than the secondary, so that is easy.

so you now know where the 4 primary tags are.

lets call them 1 2 3 4 (seems a good idea)

almost certainly one primary is on 1-2 and the other on 3-4
also almost certainly for your application you will need to join 1 to 3 and 2 to 4, then power up across 1-2 (or indeed 3-4)

but that is ONLY and almost certainly situation

to avoid explosions, fuses blowing, etc......

resistance meter - measure 1-2, i would guess something like 30-50 ohms. if it is, then slap 115 across that winding. now measure 3-4, it should be 115 too.

if it is, power off, and join 1 to 3. reconnect power

measure 2 to 4 - should be 0

this tells you the primaries are in phase
it's safe to join 2 to 4 now, and use the tranny.

hope this helps

g

 

[RODALCO]

And as an addition when testing on the mains fit a 15 or 40 watt lamp in series with the primary.
It will limit the fault current when you accidentally connect a 115 volt winding on 230 volts.
With no load on the secondary there should be hardly any voltage drop across the lamp.
With a wrongly connected winding the lamp will light up, and the increased resistance across the filament will limit the current through your TX primary.

corrected for typo's RF.

 

[grim]

yes, that's a very good point!

all our factory test sets have this feature - works faster than any current protection device, and gives the operator a good clue they have put it in backwards

 

[max1000000]

I found a drawing for the device. (Hopefully attached but at bottom of:
https://www.electro-tech-online.com/custompdfs/2007/07/P200.pdf)

I am guessing this means I tie the 1st and 3 rd together then
tie the 2nd and 4th together. But I still don't know.

 

[Rolf]

How many times..............

I found a drawing for the device. (Hopefully attached but at bottom of:
https://www.electro-tech-online.com/custompdfs/2007/07/P200-1.pdf)

I am guessing this means I tie the 1st and 3 rd together then
tie the 2nd and 4th together. But I still don't know.

How many times do we have to explain this?

 

[max1000000]

Yea, ok. But to be fair Rolf most any other device distributed in commerce doesn't require an experiment to determine hook-up. Even a diode has an unambiguous symbol stamped right on the device.

It would seem to me (ignorant as I may be) that the drawing would reveal something about proper phase connections. You might consider the question to be more about the meaning of the diagram at this point. Knowing how to interpret this is part of learning for me.

 

[Rolf]

Yea, ok. But to be fair Rolf most any other device distributed in commerce doesn't require an experiment to determine hook-up. Even a diode has an unambiguous symbol stamped right on the device.

It would seem to me (ignorant as I may be) that the drawing would reveal something about proper phase connections. You might consider the question to be more about the meaning of the diagram at this point. Knowing how to interpret this is part of learning for me.

Items like this are not usually sold to the general public.
If you look at the drawing you will notice that pins 1 & 3 and 2 & 4 will be in phase (and in parallel for 117v) when they are connected. Several post have stated this. If you don't understand this then you have to go back to the books.
When transformers were made here in the USA some years ago, there were always a hook-up diagram included in the box, yes it had a box. But now with the far east manufactures supplying much of our components such things have evidently become a luxury that they cant afford to provide.

 

[mneary]

The diagram tells you everything you need to know. The dot at the end of each winding indicates the phase.

Connect 1 to 3 and 2 to 4.

A box for every transformer is a luxury our forests can't afford any more.

 

[grim]

usually this sort of standard transformer would carry a label to identify connections - it's ones sold to oem's that are usually not marked up

 

[mneary]

More and more we have to rely on data sheets; not too long ago "E" "B" "C" was marked on most transistors.