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Need LED assistance...

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Hi Maxer,
As I said before, of course it won't work without having a reset button and a person to operate it, while watching the LEDs.

I'll try to find time to sketch a CD4017 circuit for you. It will work better if you disable the blinker and let the CD4017 just keep scanning as long as your turn-signal switch is on.
The CD4017 can supply about 10mA to each LED. If that is not enough current, buffer transistors are needed for more current (more brightness).
Since vision is logarithmic, there is very little difference in brightness between 10mA and 20mA.

Have you considered that your extremely bright LEDs may be that bright only because they are focused into a very narrow angle? Then they won't be seen very well from an angle. I would suggest using wide-angle LEDs for this application.

Why did you select white LEDs? Most turn signals that I've seen are red or amber. If you put a white LED behind a red lens then the light output will be very low because a white LED is a blue one with a yellow phosphor (no red). I don't know how much reduction in brightness an amber lens will cause, amber has some red in it too.

Lots to consider.
 
audioguru said:
Hi Maxer,
As I said before, of course it won't work without having a reset button and a person to operate it, while watching the LEDs.

I'll try to find time to sketch a CD4017 circuit for you. It will work better if you disable the blinker and let the CD4017 just keep scanning as long as your turn-signal switch is on.
The CD4017 can supply about 10mA to each LED. If that is not enough current, buffer transistors are needed for more current (more brightness).
Since vision is logarithmic, there is very little difference in brightness between 10mA and 20mA.

Have you considered that your extremely bright LEDs may be that bright only because they are focused into a very narrow angle? Then they won't be seen very well from an angle. I would suggest using wide-angle LEDs for this application.

Why did you select white LEDs? Most turn signals that I've seen are red or amber. If you put a white LED behind a red lens then the light output will be very low because a white LED is a blue one with a yellow phosphor (no red). I don't know how much reduction in brightness an amber lens will cause, amber has some red in it too.

Lots to consider.
I understand your points i have considered all these things..
I am using White LEd's and no they are not going to be behind Red lens.
I found 2 types of white LEd's i would consider using. Main difference between them is Brightness(Mcd's), and View angles. First one is 5500 MCD with 30deg angle and second are once i found on ebay with very narrow angles like 10 - 20 deg with bright ness around 10000 - 15000MDC
i was thinking about just using the very bright one's because the way the LED's are going to be set up on the bike brightness is more important then angle because its rear signals, in the front i will use wide angle but i am not there yet. I want these back once to be super bright enough where they can be seen in bright sun light too. only thing i am worried about it how much heat the will emmit and if they will burn out because they are going to sealed with clear silicon so they can stay put... i don't know any thing about heat, also i would need 20mA threw each LED for them to be bright like how i want them.. 10mA is to low.
I selected white because they will match the bike how the paint job is and everything, i have taken out all halogen lights rear breaks are LEd's as well now the turn signals front lights are HID's (high intesity discharge) with projectors and ballasts with a true xenon bulb :) came off IS 300 LExus. so i would like to change out the back LED's as well with super white..
Thank you for helping me
Max
 
williB said:
how many blinking LED's do you want per side ,in the back..
and in what pattern..?
using 6 LEDs per side
and here is the sequence i woudl liek them in
left to right
Oooooo
OOoooo
OOOooo
OOOOoo
OOOOOo
OOOOOO

then back to
Oooooo

O = lit LED
o = oFf LED
 
Hi Maxer,
Oh, oh. The CD4017 lights LEDs one-at-a-time.
You could use an LM3914 connected in BAR mode, with a ramp generator.
When the output of it reaches its 7th output, the ramp is reset. Then you will have the sequence that you described.
To avoid melting the IC when all the LEDs are on, each LED would need a current-limiting resistor.
 
audioguru said:
Hi Maxer,
Oh, oh. The CD4017 lights LEDs one-at-a-time.
You could use an LM3914 connected in BAR mode, with a ramp generator.
When the output of it reaches its 7th output, the ramp is reset. Then you will have the sequence that you described.
To avoid melting the IC when all the LEDs are on, each LED would need a current-limiting resistor.
Allright so what type of Resistor and what value, can you show me a Diagram of how this would be hooked up?
Thank you
Max
 
Maxer said:
audioguru said:
Hi Maxer,
Oh, oh. The CD4017 lights LEDs one-at-a-time.
You could use an LM3914 connected in BAR mode, with a ramp generator.
When the output of it reaches its 7th output, the ramp is reset. Then you will have the sequence that you described.
To avoid melting the IC when all the LEDs are on, each LED would need a current-limiting resistor.
Allright so what type of Resistor and what value, can you show me a Diagram of how this would be hooked up?
Thank you
Max
I fould some applications in a data sheet but i still couldn't quit figure out how to use the chip
here it is thanks
https://www.electro-tech-online.com/custompdfs/2004/10/LM3914-1.pdf
Max
 
how is this for a quickie design
it would require per side..
3 cmos flip Flops
1 CD4022 counter..
and of course the 6 FET's , LED's and some resistors..to limit current flow..
the 555 can be used for both sides...
 

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williB said:
they come two flip flops per chip..btw
Just one Slide Per side
here is pic of how my side is right now with LED they just Blink
no sequence...
 

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williB said:
how is this for a quickie design
it would require per side..
3 cmos flip Flops
1 CD4022 counter..
and of course the 6 FET's , LED's and some resistors..to limit current flow..
the 555 can be used for both sides...
ALso CD4022 counter would work better then LM3914? or is it the same
 
Maxer said:
williB said:
how is this for a quickie design
it would require per side..
3 cmos flip Flops
1 CD4022 counter..
and of course the 6 FET's , LED's and some resistors..to limit current flow..
the 555 can be used for both sides...
ALso CD4022 counter would work better then LM3914? or is it the same
yeah .. three Flip Flop IC'sPer side....six in total .. one for each stage..the FF hold the pulse sent to them by the counter.. till they are reset by the carry out pulse from the cd4022..
 
williB said:
Maxer said:
williB said:
how is this for a quickie design
it would require per side..
3 cmos flip Flops
1 CD4022 counter..
and of course the 6 FET's , LED's and some resistors..to limit current flow..
the 555 can be used for both sides...
ALso CD4022 counter would work better then LM3914? or is it the same
yeah .. three Flip Flop IC'sPer side....six in total .. one for each stage..the FF hold the pulse sent to them by the counter.. till they are reset by the carry out pulse from the cd4022..
Allright i am still an amature at this your very advance then me, so can you make me a diagram that looks more clear? and all exact parts i would need because i am planning to go to the electronic shop and hand them a paper and expect to get the parts and go off the diagram and make my own circuit..
Thanks
Max
 
Sorry Willi,
Don't you think that the LM3914 circuit will be much simpler?
1) Set-up the LM3914 as a bar-mode voltmeter. It can output up to 30mA per LED so 20mA is easy. Current-limiting resistors for each LED will keep the LM3914 cool.
2) A PNP transistor current source charges a cap linearly, and the LM3914 displays the cap's voltage. A trimpot can adjust the ramp's speed.
3) The 7th output of the LM3914 discharges the cap.
4) A voltage regulator (zener diode?) keeps the ramp at a constant speed.

Really simple.

What do you say, Maxer?
 
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