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Need help in 88-108MHz preamp circuit!!

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1524 is a much hard to find item!
I managed to get only one. Package looks like nasty 7000 because very very old and rusty component :D
Next week I will a get a fresh piece of LM1036(National Semi) also.
I will arrange a competition for them and the winner will be eligible for sit with my cute 5711 and hear what she is telling for life long ;)
 
May the better chip win ;) If I were you I would build a self contained radio, i.e. with a stereo power amplifier after the 1524/1036 that can drive a good quality pair of speakers... but of course I am not you :D
 
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Why I decided to remove the power-amp section from my receiver is:
1. It will make it too bulky with the heavy-ampere transformers. It will be non-portable and needs permanent and separate speaker system.
2. Otherwise I have to use a low rms amplifier which will not be effective with the pre-amp using 1524/1036!
3. I'm going to use with a wide range of amplifiers,computer speakers and music systems according to my wish. So it should be a portable with Line-out.
The pre-amp controls will allow me to use with a wide range of amplifiers :)

Audioguru,
What is the meaning of dual DC operated for LM1036?
Any connection to dual power supply? In schematic I can see a single Vcc.
 
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Op-Amp based tone controllers are nasty because they need dual power supply which I don't like all. Performance-wise I don't know much, may be good.
 
Op-Amp based tone controllers are nasty because they need dual power supply which I don't like all. Performance-wise I don't know much, may be good.

Opamp's work happily from either single or dual supplies, so they aren't in any way 'nasty'.

Quality wise, they are as good as anything else, and better than most if you use a decent quality opamp - but due to the highish levels tone controls work at, even a cheap opamp will give superb performance as a tone control.
 
Any of you old-timers ever use this kit? It was one of the first kits my dad got me way back in 19somthing :D The radio projects use a reflex circuit, which I improved by making them regenerative... Presently I have two of those kits, bran new, I got them on eBay a couple of years ago... They bring back a lot of nice memories, such as assembling circuits instead of doing my school work :)
 

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I worked for Philips in Canada in about 1965. It was my first job.
I remember when Philips in the USA was called Norelco.
Now Philips is called NXP Semiconductors.
 
My first radio receiver was a crystal type and I tried it a lot for working with a big 4Ohm speaker when I was 12yrs. But my first working one was a Super Heterodyne one, years later!
 
My first radio was a super-heterodyne AM radio from a magazine article.
Then a few years later I made a super-heterodyne FM tuner from a kit.
They worked well.
 
I remember my dad's old Philips radio worked for years! Later my radio experiments started from it :D

Now, one of my hobby is to tune to the receiver with my home built 4 foot loop antenna which is amazing. The antenna is independent of the receiver. But a quite decent performer.
 
The child in the photo looks like a boy scout.
 
As of August 2nd 2008, the wireless operations of NXP have moved to a new company, ST-NXP Wireless. Philips Semiconductors is replaced with ST-NXP Wireless.

My very first receiver (I was 12 or 13) was a crystal diode connected on one side to an antenna, and on the other side to a crystal earphone, the other earphone lead went to ground. No tuned circuits. I got a jumble of stations, but it was an accomplishment to me :D
 
my first receiver was designed by myself :)
It was a two stage BC548 followed by a 3v audio driver transformer with two AC128 germanium transistors.
It worked very well with a good length antenna with out any ground connection.
 
I remember building a crystal radio and listening to Radio Luxembourg which stopped broadcasting years ago.
 
Audioguru,
Can u explain how to implement a IR remote control operation for LM1036 ;)
 
Audioguru,
Can u explain how to implement a IR remote control operation for LM1036 ;)
You could use digital pots. They have an "up" input and a "down" input. A few of them have a non-volatile memory so they turn on at the same setting that they turned off.
 
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