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Ok great Les! You’ve been a huge help and stuck it out to the end helping me which is very hard to find and after trying it all resources including the manufacturer of this motor for 4+ months and still nothing other than playing chasing phone numbers for tech support.
I feel your right on FLA of motor and I’m comfortable with running at 11amps not loaded and is logical. I will see if I can find a SSR to cut out capacitors and auxiliary start winding and go from there.
The way it was hooked up is in the beginning of all this post thread if you are wanting to compare.
Thanks to all!
Post #12 was posted by shortbus and the potential relay method seems a reasonable alternative to other methods I have seen. (I have not seen the potential relay method used before. )
Post #12 was posted by shortbus and the potential relay method seems a reasonable alternative to other methods I have seen. (I have not seen the potential relay method used before. )
Les have a look at these pictures, finally after several months I’ve found this.
Still have had zero luck on finding compact/sealed potential relay. Not been able to find a solid state relay... there’s a lot of options with open and exposed terminals though but nothing that will fit in junction box with capacitors and wiring.
thought you maybe interested in drawing from 1967. Save/share
I don't know what the above drawings (Post #65) have to do with your motor. Your motor is a dual voltage motor so the main winding is actualy two windings that can be connected in parallel (For 120 volt operation.) or in series (For 240 volt operation.) The auxiliary winding is always fed with 120 volts. (When the motor is configured for 240 volt operation the the connection between the two halves of the main winding provide 120 volts. They behave like an auto transformer. ) You keep talking about using a solid state relay but give no information on HOW you plan to use it. I don't understand why it is such a big deal that the start relay must fit in the junction box.
I guess to start the motor is 240vac which I though we agreed on.
The drawing is directly from GE using the model/drawing number from motor ID.
The potential relay that was in pictures and came with motor would be ideally in junction box as it came so I’m not having to run external mounted box and wiring..simple/clean the way it came.
I hope this answers your reply’s .
For most of this thread I have stated that that I believe the motor was a dual voltage motor. As you say that the schematic in post #65 was supplied by the motor manufacturer. If this is so then the assumption that it is a dual voltage motor was wrong. I have no knowledge of this type of motor with a tap on the auxiliary winding to drive the coil of the potential start relay.
as mentioned several times your help/advice has been superior to anyone. Yes there’s been confusion on my part not knowing wtf this motor was. And seems no one did either, along with 4 months of continuous calling GE the maker of motor..
I just wanted to share my findings with you after all our trouble shooting and thought It explain some of my questions/concerns I had.
As far as relay device I’m still hunting thanks again for your troubles!
I think the link that rjenkinsgb has supplied will be a good place to start. I think you will need to do some tests first using a manual switch in place of the potential relay contacts and connecting it up as in the schematic in post #65. You will need to measure the voltage between winding connections 11 and 6 (The numbering from post #65) Yo will need a reading as soon after power is first applied as possible then one when the motor is up to speed and a third when you have opened the manual switch after it is up to speed. This should help you select a suitable voltage rating for the potential relay.
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