active crossover?

[audioguru]

mounting the woofers free air should give a -3dB point of 85Hz

A speaker needs an enclosure to stop the out-of-phase sound from the rear of the speaker from cancelling the sound from the front of the speaker.

 

[Death By Bass]

A speaker needs an enclosure to stop the out-of-phase sound from the rear of the speaker from cancelling the sound from the front of the speaker.

no it doesn't.

it needs a decent sized baffel to do that.

in the case of a car, the door is big enough, and its pretty much sealed anyway.

 

[Death By Bass]

Tweeter: https://www.electro-tech-online.com/custompdfs/2006/07/D26NC-15-06.pdf
Midrange: help me decide?
Woofers: https://www.electro-tech-online.com/custompdfs/2006/07/830491.pdf (last one on that page)
Subwoofers: maybe something Adire Audio... was thinking two 15's

heres a 4inch midwoofer I was looking at:
but only cost I can't really find any others!!! (no Peerless, or Vifa anyway )
**broken link removed**

 

[audioguru]

The frequency response for the 4 inch mid-range speaker isn't shown.
It has very low sensitivity and a low max power spec so it will determine the quality (poor) of the speaker system.

One of the very good and powerful 8 inch woofers says that it works well in two-way speaker systems.

 

[Death By Bass]

The frequency response for the 4 inch mid-range speaker isn't shown.
It has very low sensitivity and a low max power spec so it will determine the quality (poor) of the speaker system.

they state it as having a frequency response of 70 - 10,000Hz... maybe thats not flat, but with the cabin gain, and things in the car effecting the frequency response it wouldn't be flat anyway!!! and I'm only expecting it to play from like 300Hz to 3000Hz....

another option was this Vifa midwoofer:
https://www.speakerbits.com/net/catalogs/showpic1.aspx?ID=VF110B

but, its 4.5inch, and probably wont fit into the space I have

One of the very good and powerful 8 inch woofers says that it works well in two-way speaker systems.

yes, the 850136, which I already have two of, aswell as two of a suitable tweeter to cross them over with, but I dont like how weak the cone is (treated paper) because if I'm going to be using it in the front doors of the car, chances are its going to get kicked.

 

[Death By Bass]

I made passive crossovers for the Peerless 850136 to the Peerless 811827...

**broken link removed**

its a 2500Hz 3rd order butterworth...

thats just one channel shown.

 

[audioguru]

How well do "home" speakers that have a paper cone last in the high humidity of a car?
What car amp is designed to drive 8 ohms speakers?
How much power will cause the 20W Vifa mid-range speaker to smoke? Its sensitivity is also low.

 

[Death By Bass]

How well do "home" speakers that have a paper cone last in the high humidity of a car?

What car amp is designed to drive 8 ohms speakers?

How much power will cause the 20W Vifa mid-range speaker to smoke? Its sensitivity is also low.

since when is a cars humidity any higher than the outside humidity? (higher temp maybe, but why would the humidity be any higher?) either way, I imagine you'd get a good 10 years of use from a decent treated paper cone woofer.

what does the impedance matter? higher impedance = less power + less distortion, and less heat... sounds good to me!!! Plus, I was going to bridge two channels of a 4 channel amp to each of the 8inch woofers anyway.

How much power will cause a 20watt tweeter to smoke? it all depends on the crossover frequency, and they rate that 4.5inch mid at 60watts musical / 90watts max anyway, so, I imagine it could take a fair bit.

edit: **broken link removed**

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

How much power will cause a 20watt tweeter to smoke? it all depends on the crossover frequency, and they rate that 4.5inch mid at 60watts musical / 90watts max anyway, so, I imagine it could take a fair bit.

With too low a crossover frequency you'll kill the tweeter in seconds, as long as it's high enough they will take a reasonable amount of abuse - and if you increase the crossover frequency further you can usually give then considerably more power (depending on the heat they can dissipate).

 

[audioguru]

I know that tweeters are fragile so that their voice-coil and diaphragm are light enough to move quickly. There are no fundamental musical frequencies in a tweeter's bandpass, just low level harmonics and quick percussions.

I asked about how much power the 5 inch midrange speaker would take since its max wasn't listed on the 1st sheet posted. It was rated at only 20W but over a wide frequency range. It would break with more power at its lowest frequency. The 2nd sheet about the midrange speaker lists a higher max power rating. Is its power rating high enough for it to reproduce continuous fundamental frequencies from musical instruments and voices?

How much amplifier power at clipping into 8 ohms are you planning on using per channel? You know that a 4-channel "200 Whats" car amplifier produces only about 6 Watts per channel at clipping into 8 ohms per channel, don't you?

 

[Death By Bass]

audioguru... what are you talking about? :s

"You know that a 4-channel "200 Whats" car amplifier produces only about 6 Watts per channel at clipping into 8 ohms per channel, don't you?"

huh? :S

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

audioguru... what are you talking about? :s

"You know that a 4-channel "200 Whats" car amplifier produces only about 6 Watts per channel at clipping into 8 ohms per channel, don't you?"

huh? :S

He was exaggerating 'slightly' about the largely imaginary rating of in-car amplifiers and speakers - a '200W' four channel car amp would be '50W' per channel, which is probably only 16W into 4 ohms, or 8W or so into 8 ohms.

Car amps (and speakers) usually have wildly exaggerated specs!.

 

[Death By Bass]

He was exaggerating 'slightly' about the largely imaginary rating of in-car amplifiers and speakers - a '200W' four channel car amp would be '50W' per channel, which is probably only 16W into 4 ohms, or 8W or so into 8 ohms.

Car amps (and speakers) usually have wildly exaggerated specs!.

I dont work with made up numbers, I work with RMS figures.

 

[audioguru]

Will your amplifier produce more than only 6W to 8W RMS at clipping into 8 ohms per channel?

 

[Death By Bass]

Will your amplifier produce more than only 6W to 8W RMS at clipping into 8 ohms per channel?

nah, nah, I'm going to use a 4 X 8watt amp... :/ what are you on about?

 

[Death By Bass]

Specifications:
Power / channel @ 4ohm 14.4V: 130WRMS x 4
Power / channel @ 2ohm 14.4V: 190WRMS x 4
Power / bridged @ 4ohm 14.4V: 380WRMS x 2

according to the manufacturer.

happy?

 

[audioguru]

Your amp's power numbers are probably with 10% distortion (badly clipped square waves).
Your car battery is overcharging at 14.4V. It is probably 13.8V so the amp's power will be about 120W RMS with 10% distortion into 4 ohms per channel, or 93W RMS at clipping into 4 ohms per channel, or only 52W RMS at clipping into 8 ohms per channel, which might not be enough power to smoke your little low power mid-range speakers.

Most 3-way speakers I've seen have a woofer, a tweeter and the photograph of a super-tweeter that looks nice but doesn't make sound. Sometimes the super-tweeter is a cheap little piezo speaker that sounds like a whistle.

 

[Death By Bass]

Most 3-way speakers I've seen have a woofer, a tweeter and the photograph of a super-tweeter that looks nice but doesn't make sound. Sometimes the super-tweeter is a cheap little piezo speaker that sounds like a whistle.

mate, what are you talking about? :s

 

[Death By Bass]

"audioguru" it has become evident, that clearly you don't actually have anything constructive to add to this thread, except useless, and often meaningless little comments. If you would kindly refrain from posting in this thread again, it would be much appreciated.

Thankyou.

 

[audioguru]

I am sorry to offend you but you have been talking about using low power mid-range speakers which are not required.
You were also talking about using a 4-channel amplifier for driving 7 or 8 channels of speakers.