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Toner Transfer Papers

BobW

Active Member
If the cracking is due to the toner flaking off of the toner transfer paper before you get it ironed onto the PCB, then you may find this to be a useful tip. I had this problem when using HP photo inkjet paper. Then I found that if I wipe the paper with a cloth dampened with methyl alcohol, it takes enough of the glaze off of the paper to make the toner stick much better. The paper doesn't look any different after doing this, but the toner sticks really well, and I've never had any more toner flaking issues since I've started doing this.

You don't need to get the paper really wet, and obviously you must let it dry before putting it through the printer.
 

mvs sarma

Well-Known Member
Thread starter #102
3v0,
The only issue i find is in making boards with ground plane.
I get dotty pin holes ( not software issue.). For non ground plane pcb , whether large or small , it works fine. People are more used to Laminating machine that does uniform heat and pressure.
Things should be FINE, I suppose.
regards
saqrma
vu3zmv
 

throbscottle

Well-Known Member
I noticed slight cracking on a FR2 board about 5" to a side, worse when I did another slightly narrower but about 3" longer. It might be better with FR4. These are cracks in the transferred toner due to thermal expansion, and wrinkles due to it shrinking back again.
 
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3v0

Coop Build Coordinator
Forum Supporter
3v0,
The only issue i find is in making boards with ground plane.
I get dotty pin holes ( not software issue.). For non ground plane pcb , whether large or small , it works fine. People are more used to Laminating machine that does uniform heat and pressure.
Things should be FINE, I suppose.
regards
saqrma
vu3zmv
I have seen this too. Using a grid pattern for the ground plane fixed it for me.
 

DGM

New Member
I'm gradually working up to my first attempt at toner transfer. I don't think I've ever seen the "ordinary waxed paper" described. Will greaseproof paper or baking parchment do the job?
I never had any luck with waxed paper or coated masking paper. When using waxed paper, the print tends to also get terribly distorted when it runs through the fuser in the printer. Trying to make the toner stick to the board afterwards was basically futile, either because the wax has a lower melting point than the fusing temperature of the toner, or because the toner was contaminated by the wax -- or more likely both.

I've tried freezer paper and not had any real luck either.

At least with magazine paper, the release agent (starch) isn't activated by heat, so it doesn't migrate in the printer or the press.
 

mvs sarma

Well-Known Member
Thread starter #106
DGM,
WELCOME to ETO,

Please check on ebay for yellow or white colored Toner transfer paper. I might have earlier said some wax coating. It is in fact Silicon film. heat doesn't trouble it. you might of course use parchment paper. I never had experience of such papers.

all the best
regards
sarma
 

throbscottle

Well-Known Member
I had to share this. I just saw a fabric crafting video in which she used "freezer paper" to transfer a laser printed design onto fabric. Works with inkjet too, apparently - ok if you have waterproof ink. Maybe freezer paper is the magic we've all be missing.
 

throbscottle

Well-Known Member
DGM I just saw your post #105. Sounds like the fuser in your printer might be running hot. Any chance you can try a different printer? My old Magicolor would print on anything!
 
Ok. I'm about to tell you how I make my TTP. This is original so listen up. HAIR GEL!. Coat plain white paper with clear hair gel. I use the softee brand found in most dollar stores/walmart. I personally coat the paper 2x. Once dried, I use my heat press and cover paper (parchment) to press and return paper back to flat state. I run it thru the laser printer. it will curl but let it sit and it will relax again. I use adhesive spray 3M 45 on the image, and place it on my substrate. I then pass it under my heat press again briefly. Soak in tub of water. the paper will easily float off. This process beats all other DIYs in time and effectiveness. Let me know if anyone tries it.
 
I agree that it's an interesting idea, worth looking at, but I'm trying to understand this claim:

This process beats all other DIYs in time and effectiveness
It seems to me that by the time you apply two coats of hair gel and let it dry between each coat, iron it flat, then spray it with adhesive, I could have simply used a sheet of cheap photo inkjet paper straight out of the package, and already have a finished PC board.
 
I agree that it's an interesting idea, worth looking at, but I'm trying to understand this claim:



It seems to me that by the time you apply two coats of hair gel and let it dry between each coat, iron it flat, then spray it with adhesive, I could have simply used a sheet of cheap photo inkjet paper straight out of the package, and already have a finished PC board.
That's what I thought. I made it sound complicated. For what I do, that's the best route. For the ones making PCB boards, simply coat once. Just apply enough to have good "slip" and let dry. Iron flat to go back through the printer ( this is for laser only). You can just iron the toner as usual. My substrate requires no heat be applied so that's the only reason for the adhesive. Soak the paper off. Noticed I said better than all DIYs. You cannot compare this to commercial products that are designed to do exactly this. Cost is the big thing for me. I require a lot of TTP. So the 32 oz jar I use covers about 40 papers with dual coats. the jar cost less than $3.00 here with tax.. you're looking at $0.08 a sheet. The claim was based on my own experience. If you have something better, by all means.
 
Is there something in the process that makes you not want to try it?
No, I still follow this thread and contribute sometimes, but I use dry film photo-resist now so don't need toner transfer any more. I've even started doing my own through hole plating!
 

3v0

Coop Build Coordinator
Forum Supporter
No, I still follow this thread and contribute sometimes, but I use dry film photo-resist now so don't need toner transfer any more. I've even started doing my own through hole plating!
I stopped etching boards a few years ago when, like Mike said, it became cheap to have them made. Really don't like drilling holes, and life is simpler without the chemicals and other supplies.

But the ANT PCB mill project has my attention. Its small enough that one can store in in a drawer or such when not in use. But I think I will hold off for a while and see what develops along that line.
 

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