Space Varmint, I took another look at your clock circuit that you showed me (PS: don't include your name in your schematic, at least not your real name) and I have concluded that you can use the MAX7219 to drive an LED display instead of an LCD display. The MAX7219 has a similar pin configuration as your AY0438. (you may want to double check though)
Here is the data sheet.
Yeah I forgot about that. I did it a long time ago, Everything but name has changed. No biggy. So wanting to try out that chip? It looks like it will work but would have to use two of them.
The discontinued clock IC uses the mains frequency for its timing and to light the LEDs.
When it is battery powered then its LEDs do not light and it uses an internal RC oscillator for its timing.
It will draw 5mA to 7mA from the 9V battery.
I don't know if the alarm will work when it is powered from its backup battery.
I thought that you might like that, but here's something else, you know how I said that I'm going to modify a 32 pin connector for controlling my iPod? I have made a simple circuit to do that, but the problem is that the more I look into the way that the connectors opperate, the more I've realised that a uC is going to be needed. Please don't give me the design just yet (I want to take a shot at making it myself). I do have one more question for you though, how much do you know about 8051 code?
Think I made a terrible selection on the diff amp. I think my mixer products got snagged by common mode rejection.
I briefed over it. What is it you want to do?QUOTE]
I am tryinging to get the Audio Technica from the second picture (apple makes a similar one) and oppen it up and tie the uC to the internal electronics so that the rest of my circuit will work properly with the iPod (i.e. the alarm can turn the iPod on to wake someone up). I don't think that it should be too hard to do.
The Diff amp mixer is used, where? I have never seen, but I have found papers on the subject. It seems as though it is important that the two transistors are matched in which case a single package pair would be used.
Here is link to one such mention. It appears to have some advantages over other mixer topologies but also some pitfalls as well. As in most cases with RF, there is always trade offs to be made.
Granted the author should have had the paper proof read, theory is still sound.
https://www.electro-tech-online.com/custompdfs/2010/03/Paper154-J_Sevova-1.pdf
I came up with a cleaver idea. After poking around on the internet a little, I found some 30 pin connectors that are easiser to solder than the one that I was origonaly going to use, we can just use that to get the uC to interface directly with the iPod. I think that will be a lot easier and less expensive.
Just to give you some pointers on the specs of my uC, like I said it's a DS2250-32-16. It does not have an RTC installed in it, however I do have an RTC that could work with it, the DS12F887 (I'm not sure about the F digit but I do know that I'm right about the rest of the numbers). That RTC would be kind of good for something like this because it also has EEPROM built into it.
These are some questions for audioguru.
Can your FM transmiter be made with a 12V input?
Are the 2 variable cappacitors the same cappacitor?
Can I substitute the Vreg with an average 5V regulator?
The RF amplifier transistor will probably burn up. Add a 7809 voltage regulator.These are some questions for audioguru.
Can your FM transmiter be made with a 12V input?
They are separate trimmer capacitors. The oscillator capacitor changes the tuned frequency. The RF amplifier capacitor is peaked and can be peaked in the middle of the FM broadcast band (98MHz) and the RF amplifier still works at any frequency in the FM broadcast band.Are the 2 variable capacitors the same capacitor?
I used a low-dropout 5V regulator because my 9V battery can drop to 6V as it is used. You can use a 78L05 regulator if you want.Can I substitute the Vreg with an average 5V regulator?
RadioShack sells cell phones and kids toys, not modern electronic parts.The bad news is, I have no 0.1µH, and radio shack (the fastest source of parts) does not have any.
I used 1mm enamelled wire from a two-way speaker's crossover network and wound nine or ten turns around a dowel like this:So audioguru, sorry to be a pain, but can you tell me how to make the inductors from scratch?
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