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regulator for motor bike single phase

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All that sounds like fun but i don't think my xt 500 has a self regulating coil. i have blown 4 bulbs in a week and a half and they are hard to find now 25 years later. for the moment i have a very crude regulator that stops my battery boiling. a triac shorts the coil triggered by two zener diode in series anode together. my scope tells me it works a bit but it is too crude.

no body has better ideas?

scr are used in industry regulators but i have no idea how to use them in a shunt circuit.

i would like to ride my motorbike after dark and sleep at night.
 

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Diver300 said:
Twice the turns would mean twice the voltage, but 4 times the inductance, so half the current, and exactly the same amount of power......

Yes, but you only need half the current anyway - that's the point of moving to 12V.
 
OK if we talk coils: has anybody made a model of a single phase magneto (eg LTspice)? on my scope i have 4 phases per rpm. It would be cool to model a rewire of the coil.
 
Nigel Goodwin said:
Yes, but you only need half the current anyway - that's the point of moving to 12V.

I thought the idea of moving to 12 V was to get more power.

Lower voltage filaments are better because they are fatter and can be run hotter, so unless you can get more power by going to 12 V you will end up slightly worse off.

12 V is generally better in a car because the currents are lower so the voltage drops are much less significant.
 
A note about magneto generators. Some comercial diesel engines use magneto generators to charge the battery. To regulate the output, a second winding is wound over the main AC winding. The regulator has 2 sections: bridge rectifier from the main winding to the battery, the second part "injects" a dc voltage into the second winding "counteracting" the magnetic field. The greater the DC the lower the AC.
 
Diver300 said:
I thought the idea of moving to 12 V was to get more power.

No, it's to improve the brightness of the lights, by reducing losses.

12 V is generally better in a car because the currents are lower so the voltage drops are much less significant.

That's the exact same reason to use 12V on a bike as well.
 
neilprice said:
All that sounds like fun but i don't think my xt 500 has a self regulating coil. i have blown 4 bulbs in a week and a half and they are hard to find now 25 years later.

Has your bike got a directly lit headlight? If so, you are best to shunt it with a resistor to keep the voltage down to the rated voltage for the bulb.
 
Diver300 said:
Has your bike got a directly lit headlight? If so, you are best to shunt it with a resistor to keep the voltage down to the rated voltage for the bulb.

Not a very good plan! - the headlight is already very poor at low revs, so adding an extra load is going to make it worse.

Like I said before, I used to have a DT400, and I never had to replace the headlight bulb at all - and it had a LOT of use, it was my sole mode of transport for a number of years.
 
no, the reason to move to 12v is to use the power that is already produced (135w). the light bulb i have is a 35W. 12V light bulbs use 45w or 55w. the bike was made with a regulator.

i have found a circuit on the net that uses a triac but when i try to model it in spice it regulates at 2 volts (and only without a capacitor). could anybody have a look to see if there is an error.

The coil produces enough power, other people have already done this with a regulator for a skidoo (snow bike). the circuit below is supposed to be be the same. if you speak French i can give you the site where people explained what they have done.

can we presume that the coil (the V,the I and so the power) will be at the end of the wires. all i need is a good regulator.

this is the 3rd circuit i have posted. triac, scr, or transistor can nobody help me? (please)
 

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Helder Ferreira said:
A note about magneto generators. Some comercial diesel engines use magneto generators to charge the battery. To regulate the output, a second winding is wound over the main AC winding. The regulator has 2 sections: bridge rectifier from the main winding to the battery, the second part "injects" a dc voltage into the second winding "counteracting" the magnetic field. The greater the DC the lower the AC.

i would like to try to regulate before rewinding the coil.
 
neilprice said:
no, the reason to move to 12v is to use the power that is already produced (135w). the light bulb i have is a 35W. 12V light bulbs use 45w or 55w. the bike was made with a regulator.

So the XT500 is different then if it has a regulator - but why not just replace it if it's faulty?.

i have found a circuit on the net that uses a triac but when i try to model it in spice it regulates at 2 volts (and only without a capacitor). could anybody have a look to see if there is an error.

Have you disconnected the chassis side of the XT alternator coils?, otherwise you're shorting things out.
 
Nigel Goodwin said:
So the XT500 is different then if it has a regulator - but why not just replace it if it's faulty?.


If i could find a regulator at the breakers for the xt i would have changed it already. They have plenty of three phase regulators but no more single phase.
at over 60€ it would be cheaper to build (and more fun)

Nigel Goodwin said:
Have you disconnected the chassis side of the XT alternator coils?, otherwise you're shorting things out.

i am trying to find an extracter for the fly wheel. as soon as find that it would take me 5 mins.
 
neilprice said:
If i could find a regulator at the breakers for the xt i would have changed it already. They have plenty of three phase regulators but no more single phase.
at over 60€ it would be cheaper to build (and more fun)

You've probably already spent that on blown bulbs! :D

What does the existing regulator consist of?, can you repair it?.

i am trying to find an extracter for the fly wheel. as soon as find that it would take me 5 mins.

Hope it comes off easily - sometimes they can be difficult!.
 
The original regulator had blown and the circuit was filled with resin. i took the resin out of the heat sink with a blowtorch and i saw about 10 burnt composants. i put the crude circuit with a triac, 2 zener diodes and a 1k resistor. it was for 6v and i want to try 12v.

i found 4 bulbs at 4€ each. but they have no more. anyway 36w lights up the road like a hand torch.

for the flywheel i have already tried 3 shops, they don't have the right size. but i have wire and soldering iron always in my bag...
 
in the meantime... mosfets in all that. looking though all my electronic stuff i found a bunch of mosfets. is it possible to use them in a shunt regulator? how o they differ from power transistors?

has anybody looked at the circuits i posted?

can any body help me?
 
ok i went to yamaha and the fly wheel came off with the right tool. unsoldered the mass, so now i can fit a 2 wire regulator and have full wave rectification.
now i just need to buy the parts and build the circuits. i think i will try several circuits.

even if i am talking to my self, i will try and keep this post up to date. when i googled i came across electro tech, but it never came to a conclusion.
 
neilprice said:
ok i went to yamaha and the fly wheel came off with the right tool. unsoldered the mass, so now i can fit a 2 wire regulator and have full wave rectification.
now i just need to buy the parts and build the circuits. i think i will try several circuits.

even if i am talking to my self, i will try and keep this post up to date. when i googled i came across electro tech, but it never came to a conclusion.

Yes, please keep us informed, I'm sure we're all love to hear how you get on. Now you've got the earth wire off you can get on and try things.
 
sir , I have a enfield bullet containing 12v battries ,when I drive my bike more the then one hour the battries get over chage kindly suggest me a circuit diagrame of regulator com recticier for single phase megnato
 
Hi Neil, my XT500 is modded to use 12v system, with the orig stator coil, 12 reg and 35w headlight. The headlight dims a little at idle but when riding it is fine.

You don't have to rewind the stator coil if you are happy with a 35w headlight. All you need is a 2-wire rect/reg from a little modern motorcycle from the breakers. Most of the scooter type bikes and a lot of the 250's use a 2-wire (single phase) 12v rect/reg.

These usually have 2 white wires for the ac input and red/black (or something and black) as output wires. I wouldnt expect to pay more than $25 to $30 USD from the breakers.

If you can get a CHEAP 3 phase motorcycle rect/reg you can use that, they just use a 6 diode rect instead of a 4 diode rect, so you can leave one of the 3 AC input wires disconnected and it will work fine as a single phase rect/reg. They are typically quite crude, using 3 diodes and 3 SCRs as the "6 diode" rectifier, with the voltage regulation done by components on the 12v output so leaving one AC input wire disconnected makes no difference to its operation.

If I remember right the XT500 forum has some threads showing how to wind the stator with more turns but this is only really needed if you want to run a larger headlight like a 60w+. I decided not to bother with mine.
 
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