Press n Peel & SMDs

[AtomSoft]

Anyone know of any reliable sites to purchase press and peel transfers possibly a kit also refills.

Also would like a store for SMD parts. (resistors, capacitors and diodes etc...)

Of course online stores...

Thanks in advance.

Edit: Can a mod move this to parts....

 

[bloke_man]

Mmm...that's a curly one, usually the "press n peel" part is done after a layout has been produced (Orcad, Eagle or Protel) see link.

**broken link removed**

Some time ago I used precut shapes for donuts, pads etc, but I don't think these would be available now.

You have Mouser Electronics? or Jaycar in the US? any electronics hobby store will carry most common SMD parts.

 

[AtomSoft]

In my location there are no electronic hobby shops for about a 2-3 hour drive.

Also about the link been there before ...

I am actually starting to think about leaning towards the photo etching method these days. Mainly because of the great outcome of most boards.

 

[bloke_man]

In my location there are no electronic hobby shops for about a 2-3 hour drive.

Also about the link been there before ...

I am actually starting to think about leaning towards the photo etching method these days. Mainly because of the great outcome of most boards.

That's a shame about your lack of electronic outlets, can you hookup online and get them to deliver?

With the processing, I don't like too many chemicals or fiddling around, for me the toner transfer system works O.K. for most of my projects, anything too hairy goes out to S.E. Asia for pro-reproduction. Down the track I may look into a mill/router setup but for now the old way is fine.

Do you have a reasonable PCB Cad Program? if not, Eagle is freely available and quite easy to use.

 

[AtomSoft]

I own a copy of eagle. Wasnt too expensive .. I love it..

**broken link removed**

Small 9v divider.

 

[AtomSoft]

I want to make a custom pcb mainly for this tho:
Actual image:
**broken link removed**

3D Rendered Image:
**broken link removed**

 

[Pommie]

AtomSoft,

Did you do the 3D render in Sketchup or something else.

Mike.

 

[3v0]

In my location there are no electronic hobby shops for about a 2-3 hour drive.

Also about the link been there before ...

I am actually starting to think about leaning towards the photo etching method these days. Mainly because of the great outcome of most boards.

Photo etching may work for you but I suggest you go with pre sensitized boards althought it is more expensive. The coat it yourself route is more difficult and complex.

If you have not tried toner transfer then I suggest you try the Pulsar transfer paper. The boards you can make with it are very good. You would be hard pressed to tell them from a photo etched board, and they are less complicated to make.

In either case you need to use a layout program.

 

[AtomSoft]

Pommie i used... 3d studio max... easier for me

3v0What do you mean layout program? I use eagle... Toner Transfer is limited to pulsar from what i see. I dont like monopolies.

 

[bryan1]

Atomsoft,
I've used that PnP and never had good results so I trialled out using plain old transparancy film and it worked perfect on the first transfer. I've now done several boards using the film and I've never had a failure. Oneday I'll get hold of a laminator and modify it for the transfer but for now I do get good results just using the wifes iron ( when she aint home).

Cheers Bryan

 

[AtomSoft]

Atomsoft,
I've used that PnP and never had good results so I trialled out using plain old transparancy film and it worked perfect on the first transfer. I've now done several boards using the film and I've never had a failure. Oneday I'll get hold of a laminator and modify it for the transfer but for now I do get good results just using the wifes iron ( when she aint home).

Cheers Bryan

Just plain transparency sheets? Like over head projector type? If so i can buy at local staples and give it a shot at least.. since staples is a 10 min drive ill be glad to do that. Iron i have but might buy a laminater but im assuming it has to allow for a certain thickness... I need the specks i guess of a normal board to buy the right laminator... or i can also modify one for the cause

I should be gettting paid today so ill head to staples after work for the laminator and paper. Ill see what they have available..

Got to goto work so see ya later

 

[3v0]

Pommie i used... 3d studio max... easier for me

3v0What do you mean layout program? I use eagle... Toner Transfer is limited to pulsar from what i see. I dont like monopolies.

Ah! My misunderstanding.

Pulsar does not have a monopoly, there is also press&peel blue. It is a good product at a fair price. The market and money to be made selling transfer paper is not large. I doubt there is room for more competitors.

I support and promote the product because it is good and I would hate to do without it. (I have no financial interest in the company) As far as I can tell the company is a one man operation. The owner/operator/inventor's name is Frank Miller. I think Frank was the first to come up with a transfer paper that was better then old magazine pages and various non purpose specific papers. In addition to the circuit boards he also has a method for making decals. From what I can tell a good deal of his time is used to create new and improved techinques and products. Frank is a great guy. He answers the Pulsar tech support line phone. I call that service!

When Pulsar paper gets wet the starch coating turns to slime and the toner falls off. You get 100% release in less then a minute. With Pulsar paper the laserprinter is the weakest link as it is for photo etcing.

Digi-Key and Mouser stock the products which allows you to order it along with other electronics components, you do not have to pay an additional shipping charge.

What more could you ask for?

 

[jpanhalt]

I tried PnP years ago and got ragged edges and partial transfer. Then, used positive resist photo for past 8 to 10 years. Based on 3v0's comments, I got some Pulsar and tried it last week. Just like 3v0 says, I got 100% transfer, even onto an uncleaned, blank PCB. The weak link was my laser printer that gave a not too great image.

3v0: Do you use the green film or etch directly from the transfer? I vaguely recall you mentioning the green film. For me it gave a spotted transfer, but that was my first attempt.

John

 

[3v0]

My HP1020 will produce a good-enough image (no touch-up) that works without the foil. I only use the foil if I want to be extra picky or have a very dense layout with narrow traces.

I do not have great luck getting the green film to stick 100% to the toner. A 2nd and 3rd application helps. Not sure why there is a problem. It may stick better with a fresh toner cartridge. Up to now I have not been picky about the cartridge or how much toner was in it.

I am switching to a two cartridge system. When I get a new cartridge I will use it for toner transfer only. When my daily use cartridge goes empty the current transfer cartridge becomes the daily use cartridge and I will use a fresh one for toner transfers.

A sure way to get pinholes is to use a solid ground pour/fill. It seems my laser printer can only deliver so much toner and when you ask for too much it causes problems. I use a hatch fill pattern without problems.

3v0: Do you use the green film or etch directly from the transfer? I vaguely recall you mentioning the green film. For me it gave a spotted transfer, but that was my first attempt.

John

 

[Rolf]

Press-N-Peel .....

Ah! My misunderstanding.

Pulsar does not have a monopoly, there is also press&peel blue. It is a good product at a fair price. The market and money to be made selling transfer paper is not large. I doubt there is room for more competitors.

I support and promote the product because it is good and I would hate to do without it. (I have no financial interest in the company) As far as I can tell the company is a one man operation. The owner/operator/inventor's name is Frank Miller. I think Frank was the first to come up with a transfer paper that was better then old magazine pages and various non purpose specific papers. In addition to the circuit boards he also has a method for making decals. From what I can tell a good deal of his time is used to create new and improved techinques and products. Frank is a great guy. He answers the Pulsar tech support line phone. I call that service!

When Pulsar paper gets wet the starch coating turns to slime and the toner falls off. You get 100% release in less then a minute. With Pulsar paper the laserprinter is the weakest link as it is for photo etcing.

Digi-Key and Mouser stock the products which allows you to order it along with other electronics components, you do not have to pay an additional shipping charge.

What more could you ask for?

I am having difficulty understanding how anyone could have problems getting a the hang of using Press-N-Peel. The whole process is very simple. My only failure was when I first tried it, I used an iron that was way to hot.
I dont even use a laminator, just a $1.00 junk shop iron. But I cant do without my other high tech item, the three minute egg timer.
This griping about the high cost is not justified when you eliminate the cost of a laminator, this saving would buy you a lifetime supply of PNP!

 

[3v0]

I think the same thing about people who have failed with Pulsar paper. But some do fail.

People who are new to a process can find ways to make it fail. Each additional variable or choice increases the chance of failure.

A laminator provides move consistent heat regardless of what the image is printed on. It takes away the variables regarding the iron.

Transferring the image to the copper should be about the same for P&P, Pulsar, or mystery paper.

I am having difficulty understanding how anyone could have problems getting a the hang of using Press-N-Peel. The whole process is very simple. My only failure was when I first tried it, I used an iron that was way to hot...

 

[bloke_man]

Has anyone tried photo paper in toner transfer method? apparently Canon or Epson papers are very good.

 

[Rolf]

Has anyone tried photo paper in toner transfer method? apparently Canon or Epson papers are very good.

A quick Google brought this among many:

**broken link removed**

 

[AtomSoft]

Using a transparency sheet ... well transparency film from staples 3M brand #PP2500.. On like 4th try .. i got this but i guess i had iron too high before.


**broken link removed**

 

[AtomSoft]

Drilled:
**broken link removed**