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Portable Washing Mashine Modification - Wiring Problem


New Member

It's my first post here, I've been trying to work the issue out myself, but where i'm at currently i've no functioning RDA protection on the mains breaker and i've no sacrificial fuse equipped power bar to plug my project into in case it causes a surge

I'm trying to fix my grandma's old portable -mini washing machine, its been working with a broken timer switch for quite a while. It was ingenious enough to operate on a gear mechanism that would engage and disengage electrical contact plates when the timer was on and would turn off automatically. couple o years back the timer function started malfunctioning, and the machine kept going all the time when it was plugged. then it stopped working altogether. I identified the culprit in a broken contact pad that stopped the electricity from flowing into the motor and prevented it from running. I quickly decided to rebuild the circuit with the exclusion of a timer, and inclusion of an ac switch on the power cord (don't worry, i checked the rating). Now, i know, from my limited knowledge of motor wiring, that the motor used in this circuit is a one-phase dc motor with a start capacitor and that's all fine, but there is another smaller component that seems like a capacitor and resistor combo? since it's got a voltage, a capacitance, and a resistance rating. it also has 3 wire terminals as opposed to just 2 I'm used to on capacitors. That's where I am completely lost, as I don't know how to wire each capacitor to one another and how to connect the motor in series. This is just too much for my beginner's electronics knowledge, and the diagram is not helping! i see 3 capacitors on the diagram, and i do not know which is which, as well as a fuse which was never there to begin with ( perhaps it is in the 3 lead combo unit?)Please help me work this out.

The components I have for are:

- a 50watt dc single phase motor with 3 wires - yellow, red, and blue (blue being neutral and red, I assume, is the one used for the start winding, but i could be wrong)
- a 4 micro Farrad start capacitor rated for 450 volts
- a grounded 3 wire cable with an AC on/off switch
- a component that I can't fully identify and find a use for in the circuit with the name TNS - 2 40/085/21/C GB/T14472
- a housing and a belt

Here are the pictures of the components as well as the diagram, and the picture showing how I've connected the components
i attached the diagram with my markings of the wires and color coding as well as with an x over the part of the circuit thats gone bad and I want to circumvent


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Well-Known Member
Most Helpful Member
The three lead part appear to be a dual "snubber" device, a contact arc suppressor. Things such as that are normally connected across switch contacts or acoss inductive loads, to absorb some of the indiuctive spike as a switch opens are reduce contact burning.

That device of yours is labelled 2x(.... so it appears there are two snubber networks with one common lead. You could connect common to neutral and the others to the motor live and capacitor terminals, it may help your power switch last longer.


New Member
from this diagram, it would seem that the red wire on the motor is the live terminal? I've never come across a snubber device, yet. At least i was rightly confused. it does indeed seem that the circuit can be run with just the start capacitor. Should i connect one of the black snubber leads to both contacts of the capacitor, or just to one? Would a connection that you've proposed put the snubber in parallel in this circuit in relation to the capacitor?


Well-Known Member
Most Helpful Member
The original schematic shows three capacitors; those are presumably the "run" can and the two halves of the snubber.

Without the timer, the only thing to protect is the power switch, so the only definitely useful place is straght across power after the switch. The spare black could connect to the run cap terminal, but it's just something to do with it, as it is in parallel with the run cap..


New Member
come to think of it, the motor would run at a certain power and it would turn off periodically and inverse the directions. I doubt i can recreate that function without the timer switch and it's contacts. maybe the snubber circuit was responsible for that too. the point is just to make it work somehow. Well i guess ill have to turn it on and off then using the switch. The main concern is to check if the motor has a centrifugal switch or not, since i dont want to blow the cap when it runs continously

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