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Nice little component tester kit.

Discussion in 'Electronic Projects Design/Ideas/Reviews' started by Nigel Goodwin, Aug 7, 2014.

  1. flat5

    flat5 Member

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    Spent 15 minutes leaving a comment to the guy who posted a pic and the comment disappeared when I pressed the submit icon. I really hate when that happens. I should always write in a text editor and copy/paste comments.
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2015
  2. KeepItSimpleStupid

    KeepItSimpleStupid Well-Known Member Most Helpful Member

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    This forum is pretty good about recovery. Some times messages appear gone, but by recomposing it comes back.

    It seems like the entire Toshiba A66x lie like to hit control R for a LEFT SHIFT R sometimes. I had both the KB and MB replaced so it has to be systemic,
     
  3. flat5

    flat5 Member

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    I was talking about Banggood's site when I mentioned the comment disappearing, not this site.
    The rest of your post I do not understand. If not meant for me, that's ok :)
     
  4. dave

    Dave New Member

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  5. CapeCAD

    CapeCAD New Member

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    I plan to cut the display opening larger and not use the extra standoffs. This will allow the display and switch to stick out the front of the case. This will only work without a battery installed since it reduces the space between the PCB and the front of the case where the battery would go.

    This appears to be how they did it in the picture on the Banggood website at http://www.banggood.com/86-Plastic-...nce-ESR-Inductance-images-p956240-i53525.html
     
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  6. KeepItSimpleStupid

    KeepItSimpleStupid Well-Known Member Most Helpful Member

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    My Laptop seems to have a systemic problem. Other people are complaining too but complaints to Toshiba go to deaf ears.

    Every once in a while, by browser gets a ^R instead of a a capital R. ^R means the browser refreshes, hence I loose what I'm composing. If I use the right shift key, there are no problems, Other programs have issues too and it's both Windows and Linux on the same series laptops.

    This forum has a way of recovery. Long messages are better composed in an editor. Some websites limit your time. e.g. My bank. The auto-logoff is very short and typing doesn't count. So, if it takes longer than 10 minutes to compose, it's lost. When you try to send you find out you have been logged out without notice.
     
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  7. flat5

    flat5 Member

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    I believe you are correct, CapeCAD! Good thinking.
    For me the battery is the way to go.
    The switch must be mounted as high off the board as possible and then no problem.
    The leads/legs were already cut on my switch but I was able to raise it just enough that I can get the switch to work but not 'click'. I could also work out a way to raise the extension a little.
    If/when I get a new switch I'll replace this one.
     
  8. Colin

    Colin Member

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    "I wound a toroid yesterday that was 6.16uh and it could not measure that small an inductance.
    Just measured a choke 861uh (L&C meter) - 0.88mh on the multi-tester.

    Here's a clever trick to measure a small inductance.
    Place a 1mH inductor on the leads and read the result. Add the inductor you are winding IN SERIES with the 1mH and the result should be just like adding two resistors in series. The result will be slightly more than 1mH.
    In this way you can measure very small inductances, much smaller than the minimum shown on the specifications for the tester.
     
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  9. Colin

    Colin Member

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  10. Nigel Goodwin

    Nigel Goodwin Super Moderator Most Helpful Member

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    We know :D

    You couldn't originally though, the case (and kit complete with case) is a fairly recent addition.

    And I've still not had chance to play with my case yet either :D
     
  11. Nigel Goodwin

    Nigel Goodwin Super Moderator Most Helpful Member

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    Just to let you know, I've put mine in it's case today - same as flat5, had to cut the protrusions off the bottom of the case, and obviously drill a hole for the switch extension.

    I removed the connector strip for the input wires and turned it round, so it made it easier to get the wires in through the holes in the top.
     
  12. blueroomelectronics

    blueroomelectronics Well-Known Member

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    Are there new firmware updates for the ESR tester? If so where are they posted?

    I wonder if I should port it to XC8 for the PIC.
     
  13. Nigel Goodwin

    Nigel Goodwin Super Moderator Most Helpful Member

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    There's a link on the banggood website that takes you to a site about the tester, which explains how it all works - but I don't know about updates?.

    I must admit I was considering playing with a PIC to do something similar (probably to a lesser extent), but basically I couldn't be bothered :D

    The actual kit is so cheap it's not really worth bothering - I see they even list a version now with a graphic LCD.
     
  14. blueroomelectronics

    blueroomelectronics Well-Known Member

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    Well the couldn't be bothered argument is hard to beat.

    Is yours a Mega8 or 328p?
     
  15. Nigel Goodwin

    Nigel Goodwin Super Moderator Most Helpful Member

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    I can't remember :D

    It's under the LCD where you can't see it, and it's in the case now as well.
     
  16. canadaelk

    canadaelk Active Member

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    My iteration of the tester, in a box when semiconductors came nicely packaged.
    My unit reads al bad (gains ohms) with Rs over 2 Meg. Anyone else have that? E
     

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  17. blueroomelectronics

    blueroomelectronics Well-Known Member

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    Last edited: Mar 12, 2015
  18. flat5

    flat5 Member

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    I have a TL866 universal programmer and just bought 3 8-Bit MCU ATmega328P-PU DIP28 Microcontroller IC and 3 rotary encoders from Banggood.

    I plan to remove the chip installed in the transistor tester and use one of the new chips with 1.11 or 1.17 software version.

    I may ask for help :)
     
  19. blueroomelectronics

    blueroomelectronics Well-Known Member

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    If your programmer supports avrdude I managed to stumble through it. I tried using an Arduino UNO as the programmer and it was a mess as it wouldn't program the eeprom. Probably an avrdude setting I didn't understand. I used a Bus Pirate and it went fine but would mess up the fuse settings grr.

    It's a good idea to program a new blank ATMega328p, just ignore the fuse settings to start *it'll run too slow but the LCD should work*, then have at the fuses to set the oscillator to 8MHz external.

    The rub with AVR programming is almost every hobbyist programmer is the low voltage kind and can't reset the fuses. Going to build an Arduino based HV eraser rig just to reset the fuses.
     
  20. flat5

    flat5 Member

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    Thanks, Bill.
    Some info on the cheap programmer.
    8:45 in he gets to the software/hardware capabilities.
    I think it handles the fuses.

     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2015
  21. k7elp60

    k7elp60 Active Member

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    Nigel,
    Thanks for the information about this neat little tester. I recently got one, assembled it a it works fine.
    Thanks again.
    Ned
     

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