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new to etching

Discussion in 'Electronic Projects Design/Ideas/Reviews' started by dasatboy, Jan 27, 2008.

  1. dasatboy

    dasatboy New Member

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    yes I have. I have go it up as I am doing it. I am back at it with Iron!
     
  2. dasatboy

    dasatboy New Member

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    yes sir I have read the tutorial. I actually have it up as I do this. I am back at it with an Iron now.
     
  3. dasatboy

    dasatboy New Member

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    Ok guys this time I printed the board. Taped it to the copper. put an iron on it pushing hard form 1 min. Then put the piece in the water to cool and release the toner. Half of the toner released and the rest stuck to the paper. I will attempt to up load a digital pic of my catastophy!
     
  4. dave

    Dave New Member

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  5. dasatboy

    dasatboy New Member

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    ok well I can't find my portable digital card reader so I can't pot the image but hmmmm!
     
  6. dasatboy

    dasatboy New Member

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    Ok this time I m going to leave in water a little longer!!
     
  7. dasatboy

    dasatboy New Member

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    well attempt number 7 was closer. about 75% of the toner transfered. Mostly just some of the traces and one corner.

    I think this time I am going to put board on concrete floor and more presure. Maybe go over trouble spots with iron individually.
     
  8. dasatboy

    dasatboy New Member

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    more agressive with the heat and the pressure. If it does not work this time. I am going to redraw the PCB to allow for larger traces. can I fill the hols in the pads some how. I am sure I canfigure where the holes go later?
     
  9. dasatboy

    dasatboy New Member

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    attempt #8 - another failure. I think the printer I ahve is no good too. Cheap samsung but I just noticed it is only 600dpi. I am getting frustrated so I am going to call it quite's for the night!
     
  10. 3v0

    3v0 Coop Build Coordinator Forum Supporter

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    There is somthing very wrong here.

    When you soak the paper to release the toner the paper gets so slimey/slippery that the toner can not stick to the paper even if the toner did not stick to the board. Pulsar releases 100% of the toner. If I tape the paper along two edges prior to laminating the paper expands a bit when wet and arches up over the board when soaked. Takes under 5 minuites, more like 2.

    If you are getting the paper/PCB hot enough it will either stick or the toner is not so great.

    Maybe you can photo copy the printed image? Take the printer back and get an HP1020. I would suggest getting a new/better cartridge but they cost as much as the printer.

    Post some pictures.
     
  11. Hero999

    Hero999 Banned

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    Please use the edit button rathing than making 100s of posts.

    Sorry if this is a silly question but are you sure it's a laser printer?

    If it's an inkjet or laserjet then you're wasting your time, it will never work!

    Try photocopying the printout on to the pulsar paper and it should work.
     
  12. 3v0

    3v0 Coop Build Coordinator Forum Supporter

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    Do you have a Samsung ML-1710 Laser Printer?

    The 600 DPI will work and it will not keep the toner from sticking.
     
  13. Nigel Goodwin

    Nigel Goodwin Super Moderator Most Helpful Member

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    Surely a LaserJet is a laser printer?.
     
  14. Hero999

    Hero999 Banned

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  15. dasatboy

    dasatboy New Member

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    yea it was laser an ML-1610. I just borrowed a HP 3050 all in one from a friend. an going to try this now.
     
  16. 3v0

    3v0 Coop Build Coordinator Forum Supporter

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    Keep in mind that it is the composition of the toner and not the printer itself that makes the process work. If you friends printer has a non HP cartridge or a refilled HP cartridge it may not work either. But it might.
     
  17. dasatboy

    dasatboy New Member

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    he has only used it 2 times and has original cartidge!

    Using an iron how long do you figure I should hold it on the pcb for. and how long in the water?


    Update: Atempt #9 - failed but, I found that I had to scrub the toner a lot harder with the Acetone to get it off. Also in my hast to stop using the laminator I forgot to use a dowel under the piece. I am off to find one!!
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2008
  18. 3v0

    3v0 Coop Build Coordinator Forum Supporter

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    The pulsar paper lets go when wet in under 3 minutes. You can see it lift if at least one edge in not taped down.

    I can not tell you how long to iron. It has been a long time since I have done it and it depends on a few things. If you iron too long you may smear the image. But then at least you know it will stick.

    If you can get it to stick with the iron I would then try the laminator because it is a more controlled process. 4 passes.

    I wonder how likely it is that you have a too cool laminator and toner that did not work. Better chance of it being one or the other. Lesser chance of it being both.

    The next time I laminate a PCB image I will measure the board temp as it exits the laminator on the last pass. That would be some help. I know there is info on the net at what temp toner melts and it is not the same for all toner.

    It is my hope that the HP toner will fix the problem and you can go back to using the laminator.
     
  19. dasatboy

    dasatboy New Member

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    I think on my next digikey order I will purchase a laminator/applicator for there. only $75 cad the price is no par with a good laminator at staples so at least I know it is intended for this purpose. This time however I am going to try with the dowel.
     
  20. 3v0

    3v0 Coop Build Coordinator Forum Supporter

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    Let us know how it works.
     
  21. dasatboy

    dasatboy New Member

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    Ok well using the dowel seemed to do a better job transfering the toner there is only two small spots on two pads that didn't transfer and those pads are not used. Next to the green paper!!! Trick was the dowel (and from the fact that I had to really scrub at the toner on the first print in HP printer more than I did on the samsug) I would say it is the printer as well! Thank You all esspecially 3v0!!


    Well that didn't go over well. note to self - green TRF melts don't Iron as long as PCB, I wish the web sit would have said that. LOL. any ways after looking at the final print on the board I want to make some changes like the pads I want all filled in and a little thicker. An going back to program to figure out how to do this. If anyone has suggestions that would be appreciated!
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2008

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