Continue to Site

Welcome to our site!

Electro Tech is an online community (with over 170,000 members) who enjoy talking about and building electronic circuits, projects and gadgets. To participate you need to register. Registration is free. Click here to register now.

  • Welcome to our site! Electro Tech is an online community (with over 170,000 members) who enjoy talking about and building electronic circuits, projects and gadgets. To participate you need to register. Registration is free. Click here to register now.

Junebug Assembly Tips

Status
Not open for further replies.
thekyguy11 said:
It's definitely not in backwards, unless they flattened the wrong side.
That's been a frequent issue with LEDs I've recently received! The wrong side of the package was flattened; however, the longest lead is the anode, exactly as one would expect.
 
Just a thought, since the Junebugs display is charlieplexed the LED should have turned on at one point with the blinky demo even if it was in backwards. So it's either a cold solder joint, broken trace or dead LED.
 
Just thought I'd report that I finally got the Junebug working 100%! Couldn't have done it without everyone's help. Must've all been caused by a dud LED, then things got complicated when I removed the bad LED, but I got it all fixed and cleaned up now.

Next step: Learn how to write code!
 
For LED's, as a safe check I look inside the die to check the cathode and anode (cathode is the larger side)
 
Krumlink said:
For LED's, as a safe check I look inside the die to check the cathode and anode (cathode is the larger side)

I test light the LED with a battery and resistor and if needed cut one lead short to maintain the accepted standard and thereafter follow lead length and don't look at flat surface.
 
Hi, guys!

I've made a Junebug (just the programmer & debugger part) on a test board. Used a modified JDM to write PK2V021000.hex in the pic18f2550, but I still get "USB device not recognized" message when I plug it on my PC..

Measured 5V on U5V, and 3.3V over the 0.47uF capacitor. If I press the bootloader switch the red led blinks: I guess the oscillator is running, so is the firmware inside. Maybe some configuration bit was set wrong (but how!)?

I overchecked the connexions and it appears to be ok.

What should I do? :|
 
On an early version of the schematic the USB D+ and D- lines were swapped. Try reversing them. They are correct on the PCB and the current Junebug manual.
 
Last edited:
Yes, you're right, the D+ and D- pins were swapped (because I didnt't verify this in the pic's datasheet..). Thanks, Bill!

My Junebug it's not the best looking one, but is small and it fits in a 7x4 (cm) plastic box. Now it seems to work fine (it passed the troubleshooting test in Pickit2). I just need to build a test board for it (maybe Unicorn ?).

I'll attach a picture of it (while it is connected and running :) ):

**broken link removed**
 
My PicKit2 part of the Junebug

This is my Junebug version of the PicKit2.

MyPicKit2.jpg


It is built on stripboard so it is kinda big but it works.
 
Nice job August and the scavenger. You should also consider adding (or building seperately) the tutor part. It makes trying out ideas so much quicker.

Mike.
 
Junebug meets Nigel

Pommie,

Actually I built a Nigel sort of version that has a 18F1320 on it. I still need to build the I/O boards for it yet.
 
blueroomelectronics said:
Hmm, it's pretty natty but it works. Do you really want to see it?
I feel, Hand wiring will work reasonably well at these frequencies. Only when a data or port bus wiring is involved, that too at higher speeds are involved, perhaps path lengths matter. thus there also hand wiring might work, compared to difficulties of artwork routing restrictions.
At the outset, the component overlay has been really nice.
 
Just received my Junebug kit yesterday. One minor question on assembly.

Most pictures I have seen show L1 as a green large bodied inductor. resistor like in appearance.

I think I've narrowed down the list of possible suspects in my kit to a large black bodied inductor looks like a huge diode without a polarity stripe.

There is also a smaller one that I am assuming is FB1.

Brian
 
blueroomelectronics said:
The big one is the inductor, the small one is FB1 the ferrite bead.

Thank you for verifying my suspicions. I'd hate to have it soldered together to find out it was the other way round.

Now I have to break out the maginifying glass to figure out which transistors are which! :eek:
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Latest threads

New Articles From Microcontroller Tips

Back
Top