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Dust extractor remote switch

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I was more interested in the minimum current.power that needs to be sensed to turn the switched outlet on.

You already have the RF switch, I suppose? You now turn on the blower directly with the remote because that should work except it's missing the anti-short cycle timer so to speak.
 
I was more interested in the minimum current.power that needs to be sensed to turn the switched outlet on.

You already have the RF switch, I suppose? You now turn on the blower directly with the remote because that should work except it's missing the anti-short cycle timer so to speak.
Looked everywhere can’t seem to any information on the minimum power required I have had the the extractor apart and ran the motor directly from the rf switch but was worried if there would be any feed back or something that could damage the pcb/controller (it’s not cheap to replace) if both were connected at the same time.
 
Th
I've heard that before. People in the uk likes 120V power tools.
I have good and bad news:

Your cutting it too close on wattage. This https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/panel-mount-fixed-resistors/6641871/ might be a better choice. A 400W resistor was cheaper than a 300 W resistor. You don't have to solder if you use the wire leads.

250w is a lot of power to be wasteing, but it's actually good news too.

The RF switch is sold as a "Definate purpose contactor", so if you were switching 0.1 Amps, the relay contacts MIGHT become unreliable
A relay has what;s called a "Wetting current". That's how much current you have to minimally have for good reliability.
250W has a really good chance of not exceeding that.

I don;t LIKE the design, but it should work.

A note:

2 resistors of the same value in parrallel is: Req=R/2 so, two 8 ohms is equal to 4.
Wattages add: so Two 100W 8 ohms in parallel is 200W at 4 ohms,

Resistors might be found at surplus places,

250W is too close to 242. I'd be happier with a 300W. resistor.

i was thinking you were using smething like this https://www.amazon.com/eMylo-Wirele...nsmitter/dp/B01A6VO79M/ref=asc_df_B01A6VO79M/

But note,, no real info on the relay contact ratings.
I see the size off these resistor and are quite large I hoping to fit inside the extractor housing. I think I’m swaying to the others idea that controls the extractors power cord and as you suggested add delay start on the power tool or control the motor directly as in post 21
 
Comments here https://forum.toolsinaction.com/topic/3846-dewalt-dwv902m-extractor-vacuum-wet-dry-vac-110v/ are a worthwhile read. because your running the extractor and the tool at the same time.

The US standard outlet is 15A at 120V. A modern house will have outlets rated at 20A in the kitchen and bathrooms. 15A plugs will fit in 20A outlets. 240V is reserved for electric ovens, water heaters and air conditioners.

A review on dust extractors https://www.protoolreviews.com/tools/power/corded/specialty/dust-extractors-shootout/8021/ says that one leaves the system on for 10 seconds after the tool turns off.

Interesting products: https://www.amazon.com/iVAC-10031-010-Automated-Vacuum-Switch/dp/B0035YGLZG

 
Some reviews. https://www.woodcraft.com/products/ivac-automated-shop-vacuum-switch# Some negative, it is sold in the uk.

The blast gates may be reliable, they just don't seem to like the vacuum controller. What turns on the dust collector.
More specifically, the current ratings of the output device. That could be upgraded with an external definate purpose contactor
EDIT: I think they developed a booster for that.

I "think" a remote is associated with a "blast gate" or single tool which makes sense.

Everything makes sense except, I think I would want it to stay on longer between tool changes.

It might be better to have say a 4-button toggle remote to handle different power tools.

Their bast gates could probably be used and you develop your own, probabky wired, controller.
 
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ivac responded to some of my questions and liked some of my ideas;

1. not intended to keep the vac operating when switching tools. e.g. using belt sander and then change the blade in a jigsaw before using the jig saw.

2. the magnetic switch can be used on battery powered tools. It senses the magnetic field. The minimum sensed current for the tool is 0.5A.

3. the sensor opens the gate and the gate turns on the dust collector. Makes sense..

4. I suggested instead of one specific gate open, to use last gate and they might consider the suggestion.

5. Another response:
A LED on the blast gate would show that it has been given the command to close which essentially means the dust collector has been given the command to stop. If the dust collector does stop, the gate last used stays open. it would only close if another tool is turned on or commanded by the remote to open a blast gate.
I will add this idea to the wish list for consideration.

What's your feelings on keeping the system on longer after a tool turns off?

The blast gate is the most expensive part of the system. HAVC type damper controls are of the same oder of price.
 
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