DIY Toner Transfer Paper (cheap and easy))

[MrDEB]

had copper turn green before soldering

I etch, clean then tin coat.
then it doesn't matter how long before I solder parts on.
And I am using rosin flux w/ rosin core solder.
the thin solder doesn't have enough flux to really get some solder flow.
its yellow in color and not water soluble.
I wash with alcohol after done soldering.

 

[be80be]

The first thing I ever soldered was a jack on a radio it was back in 1975. My dad had a soldering gun he wrap a piece of copper wire on the tip to use for smaller jobs. I picked
up the first solder I found on the table and solder a way. Dad came over and looked at it and that looks good son but the acid cored solder will eat your board up.
It did eat the wire off and it didn't take long.

 

[Hero999]

I'm gonna argue that! I've used many brands of rosin cored solder over lots of years, and I always leave the flux on the joints unless it's for a photo or something. Rosin flux leaves a clear coating over the joint that actually stops corrosion.

Maybe you have been using some type of acid flux cored solder??

All the rosin cored solders I've used leave a nasty sticky yellow mess behind. I haven't had any corrosion problems because I always remove it. What solder do you use?

Soldering was also part of my apprenticeship and a board covered in flux whould never be allowed out. I doubt the company would use acid cored flux but all flux is corrosive to some extent.

 

[be80be]

Has any one tried Laser Presentation Paper, glossy it's thin I think
it would work seeing photo paper worked this will almost melt in water
I had some sample sheets I got with my printer a long time ago
I was going to get some a try it out at office max and forgot
my billfold LOL

 

[Rolf]

Has any one tried Laser Presentation Paper, glossy it's thin I think
it would work seeing photo paper worked this will almost melt in water
I had some sample sheets I got with my printer a long time ago
I was going to get some a try it out at office max and forgot
my billfold LOL

I have been testing different DIY toner transfer papers for a while and I have had the same experience as Michael at rcgroup.com below:

"I had to program some PICs for IR receivers and needed an adapter. I found out the the backing paper from laser labels is ideal from the toner transfer method. It has some sort of wax coating. The laser will print on it OK but the printed parts shouldn't be touched as the toner can smear. Place on clean copper and press down with a hot iron (cotton setting). Don't press too hard as this can cause the toner to smear. Let it cool for 30 seconds then peel off the paper. If you got the pressure and temp right no toner will be left on the backing paper. Even very thin traces are possible. The pads on the adapter for 10Fxxx PICs are only 0.5x0.5mm. The etched adapter is for 16F630 and has 0.65mm pad spacing.

I use a lot of laser labels for Indoor Flyer so the backing paper is really a waste product that I now have a good use for. Forget Press'n'peel - get some laser labels instead.

Michael"

 

[Mr RB]

All the rosin cored solders I've used leave a nasty sticky yellow mess behind. I haven't had any corrosion problems because I always remove it. What solder do you use?
...

I checked my bench, lots of different types and I normally rip the label off but 2 had labels, consolidated alloy brand rosin cored 60/40 and a shenmao brand rosin cored RH60A. Both of these leave a clear rosin coating behind.

I've got test gear I soldered up 30 years ago and the only corrosion on the PCBs are bits of bare copper where there was NO flux covering it. Anything with flux on stays pristine and shiny.

-------

Frank (PulsarProFX) please tell more about your products for front panels. Exactly how do they work? I usually get front panels engraved at the local engravers but it costs $$ and can take a few days.

 

[Rolf]

I couldn't find my wax paper, so I tried Parchment Paper, which has a silicon coating. I tried two boards. One I let cool after ironing and the paper peeled off leaving all sorts of spots. Second one I peeled off while it was still warm and it seemed to work fine, but when I went to use a marker to touch up and empty edge, I found the toner wasn't really stuck to the board well.

So Parchment Paper is a fail.

I managed to find my wax paper. I've printed off a design. I'm going to clean off the old board and try to iron it on. It goes through the printer without any issues and leaves a clean print on the wax paper.

"So Parchment Paper is a fail." (Not by a long shot!)
My wax paper Test wasn't the best I must admit.
I tried the Parchment Paper they used in a bakery and the toner coverage was miserable, I think it slid right off!
But with a coating of the Elmer's glue stick (washable) it worked great. Flatten it out with your iron before printing. Use normal transfer procedure. After about 90 seconds of soaking the paper slid right off! The glue turns purple again after getting wet, wash it off the board.
See collage below:

 

[mramos1]

Has any one tried Laser Presentation Paper, glossy it's thin I think
it would work seeing photo paper worked this will almost melt in water
I had some sample sheets I got with my printer a long time ago
I was going to get some a try it out at office max and forgot
my billfold LOL

It works well. I like the picture paper (not photo), but I have use the laser presentation paper.

 

[DirtyLude]

I tried the Parchment Paper they used in a bakery and the toner coverage was miserable, I think it slid right off!
But with a coating of the Elmer's glue stick (washable) it worked great. Flatten it out with your iron before printing. Use normal transfer procedure. After about 90 seconds of soaking the paper slid right off! The glue turns purple again after getting wet, wash it off the board.
See collage below:

That looks pretty good. You need to start using a better test pattern, though. That test pattern has large traces. Try something with variable trace widths, large to small, down to super small, like 1 or 2 mil. Some 90 degree bends and other things that are tough to get.

I won't be getting any more of this Pulsar paper. It's just not working for me. The photo paper gets me better results with my process.

 

[3v0]

I won't be getting any more of this Pulsar paper. It's just not working for me. The photo paper gets me better results with my process.

Before giving up try working with frank. He will either make you happy or buy back the paper.

3v0

 

[Hero999]

Is the glue stick PVA based?

It'll probably work with any paper, plus a coating of PVA based adhesive.

 

[Rolf]

That looks pretty good. You need to start using a better test pattern, though. That test pattern has large traces. Try something with variable trace widths, large to small, down to super small, like 1 or 2 mil. Some 90 degree bends and other things that are tough to get.

I won't be getting any more of this Pulsar paper. It's just not working for me. The photo paper gets me better results with my process.

I thought it looked good also, until I looked at it with a strong magnifying glass. But I don't think it pases mustard. :-(

 

[be80be]

I won't be getting any more of this Pulsar paper. It's just not working for me. The photo paper gets me better results with my process.

Mark you telling me I sent 75.00 down the road and it don't work are you doing it like they tell you with the whole kit. It looked like it would work good. ??

 

[MrDEB]

IMHO Pulsar systen is GREAT

Have done using an iron with fair results
went with the laminiator, talked to someone at Pulsar for direction and now the results are GREAT.
Havn't tried the .006 traces yet. Did .010 no problem.
the website and test sheet (in kit) has some .006 traces, two traces between IC pins).
Did part of the test sheet and the .006 traces came out perfect.
If your not getting a good transfer then your doing something wrong.
Try burnishing the edges of the board first
CLEAN using scotch brite pad (had good results with 600 W/D paper)
DO NOT touch the surface of the board
dry with lint free paper towel
DO NOT pull the paper off until you soak in water.
I found picking up an edge of the paper and seeing if it transfered. Better way is you should be able to see a faint outline of your traces when the transfer is right.
Increase the heat and use the dowel as described on the Pulsar site.
USE the green TFF film
Besure you printer is set with the higest density possiable.
try printing on ordinary paper and hold up to a light. = o voids and light doesn't shine through the printed traces.
I have been down this road and learned alot by trial and error as well as conversing with Pulsar.

 

[DirtyLude]

Mark you telling me I sent 75.00 down the road and it don't work are you doing it like they tell you with the whole kit. It looked like it would work good. ??

If you use the whole kit with the laminator and the green film, I'm sure it will work fine and you haven't wasted your money.

Mark! Call me and I'll figure out for you what's wrong. We don't allow unhappy customers. "If you don't love what we make, we want it back!" There are some parameters that must be held in check but they are pretty easy to do.

I've been doing this for many years with photo paper. I get excellent boards down to 8mils. I haven't tried anything smaller and I can't imagine that I will. I was hoping to not have to scrub off the photo paper from the boards, which is definitely what the Pulsar Paper offers, and I would pay the extra cost for that. Unfortunately the coverage is not enough to avoid pinholes. I use an iron, not a laminator and I'm getting some issues with the paper slipping and the traces misforming.

So, I'm not buying green film to add more work, where I lost it with scrubbing off the board. I'm not buying a laminator and new printer just for this. Really, in order to get the same results, without the scrubbing I'd have to buy more things which is more than I care for. So for me, I'm sure I could good results if I did everything you say to do, but I don't gain enough to make it worth it to me.

 

[be80be]

Mark I see where your coming from I never done any before I tried it last week with photo paper and I was amazed at how fine it could print. I can sure see how you don't want to add more to get the same results. When i was in high school we did some copper plates for ink printing with paper like what I ask about and if I can remember right seeing it was 28 years ago it worked good and the printer i have now is way better then what we used then. Thanks for the reply Mark now i got some thing to go by

 

[mvs sarma]

Mark! Call me and I'll figure out for you what's wrong. We don't allow unhappy customers. "If you don't love what we make, we want it back!" There are some parameters that must be held in check but they are pretty easy to do.

The paper will release whatever you put on it... it can be crayon and it's going to float off in under 1 minute guaranteed. The trick is to have the printer "up to speed". The newest HP's (and others) now address a new parameter and that is to set the paper's "weight". Our medium is 170gsm (grams/sq.meter). That's pretty heavy (deliberately so) to increase dimensional stability for 2x patterns.

Call me when you get a chance so I can discuss this with you and get things back on track. We're open 9am-5pm, (850) 926-2009.

Thanks, Frank

That is nice of the company. Incidentally did you have any distributers in India, and if so please provide the address, and contact.

 

[DirtyLude]

There is a misconception going on that I'd like to clarify. The GreenTRF film you're referring to is not to prevent pinholes in your toner printout. Pinholes are from your laser printer not giving you 100% coverage, caused from low density setting, low quality toner cartridge, etc.

This is an HP1012 with a new OEM brand cartridge. I actually have one old cartridge for regular printing and a new one for doing transfers. The old one still covers well, but it streaks a bit.

Given that this is an issue with my printer is there a way that I can correct the issue of pinholes? All settings on my printer are for heaviest print setting. Whatever the green film corrects, I do not need it right now in order to get clear boards using photo paper. So, if the etching isn't the same without it, then I'd rather not buy it to get the same result.

I'd be willing to play around with ironing techniques, but my major issue is with the fill. I also had some trace squishing on my first board, but I can see if that goes away with ironing technique.

 

[Wond3rboy]

Ironing too much?huh

hi i did a PCB transfer yesterday and i was surprised that i actually ironed it too much in the sense the ink like sort of melted. Not spread. It covered the holes and some wires became a thick black line. I never knew one could iron it too much i always try to iron it as much as i can so as too get as much ink on the board but i guess too much of any thing isnt good.

 

[BeeBop]

Thanks for that last tip Frank. I have been using my HP set on 3 with Pulsar paper with very good results. I didn't think to look for that setting, or I did and didn't find it, but that was so long ago. (I've been buying your products for more than a couple of years here at RP Electronics.) Now things will just get better!