creating timing circuit

[4pyros]

Witch timer went bad? The one with the 5 lights?

 

[oreoweb6]

Yes. After a fall the 5 light timer diode smoked then quit. After replacing the diode it smoked again. There are some parts nobody knows about so trying new circuit [LATEX][/LATEX]

 

[oreoweb6]

Yes. I was told this part maybe the cause of the blown brown diode next to it

 

[4pyros]

There are some parts nobody knows about

We here know about the parts and can help you fix it. It would be much easier than making new timers.

 

[4pyros]

After a fall the 5 light timer diode smoked then quit.

What usually happens is the light bulbs (incandescent) will short out if they are hit hard enough. The shorted bulb would short the thyristor. With a shorted thyristor the diode is smoking.
1st step; Find bad bulb.
2nd step; replace the bad thyristor.
last step replace the diodes.

The burned diode was just the end result of all the problems and replacing that alone will not fix the other problems.
Let me know if you what to fix it and keep it original.
PS. All you would need to do is add a fuse to keep it from blowing again.
It should have one anyway.
Andy

 

[oreoweb6]

What usually happens is the light bulbs (incandescent) will short out if they are hit hard enough. The shorted bulb would short the thyristor. With a shorted thyristor the diode is smoking.
1st step; Find bad bulb
2nd step; replace the bad thyristor.
last step replace the diodes.

The burned diode was just the end result of all the problems and replacing that alone will not fix the other problems.
Let me know if you what to fix it and keep it original.
PS. All you would need to do is add a fuse to keep it from blowing again.
It should have one anyway.
Andy

I already suspected a bulb may have been culprit. I replaced the bulb and checked the rest. I had friend check the diodes and capitor and he found only the one diode blew. When the diode smoked again he suspected the unknown part near the diode was to blame

 

[4pyros]

When the diode smoked again he suspected the unknown part near the diode was to blame

What part is that? From post #19 you did not really indicate an unknown part.

 

[oreoweb6]

What part is that? From post #19 you did not really indicate an unknown part.

Yes. Post 19. The green dot. I tried to get close up shots but was blurry all the time. Not sure if its timing or transitor. Not sure. My friend was unsure

 

[4pyros]

Yes. Post 19. The green dot. I tried to get close up shots but was blurry all the time. Not sure if its timing or transitor. Not sure. My friend was unsure

We know what that is;
"They should be "BT169" a logic level thyristor. The rest of the digits are manufacturing codes like the lot and date. It is the part that switchs the voltage on and off and may be the dad part on your timer."
Can you order one or two and some diodes?

 

[oreoweb6]

We know what that is;
"They should be "BT169" a logic level thyristor. The rest of the digits are manufacturing codes like the lot and date. It is the part that switchs the voltage on and off and may be the dad part on your timer."
Can you order one or two and some diodes?

That would be great if I can get the part. I will see. I would refer to change all the diodes. There is the other diode im not sure of. Its very smll. It looks orage and rusty color. It has c24 written in black with single black line over it. Its too sma to get pic of it

 

[4pyros]

Its very smll. It looks orage and rusty color. It has c24 written in black with single black line over it.

That sounds like a small glass signal diode. It is not under load and should be fine.

 

[4pyros]

View attachment 60162 I tried to get better pics but its hard. i will have to draw up the board. its will take some time for me. I have problems that limit me. i got some specifics on the parts. it seems both circuit boards share jacko 47uf 25v capicitor (yellow dot), brown diodes (puple x) 1)silver-red-red-gold 2)brown-red-yellow-gold 3)brown-black-red-gold)

the only differences: (green dot) bt1690 ph95-bad circuit and bt1690 ph90-good circuit.
silver and black diodes (red) in4007 MIC-bad circuit and in4007 WTE-good circuit.

there seems to be a smaller diode that is orangish color that is shared but its black from the one diode that smoked nearby. small diode looks like clear glass over it and has black line over c24 (maybe pt after it. very small to see). hope this helps for now

Witch diode did your friend replace?

 

[oreoweb6]

He replaced in post #19 to the right of the green dot. Belive it was browm-red-black-gold diode. Its so black from being smoked. Thanks evrryone for helping. If I can get all new par. Not belowts in that be great. The board seems fine besides charring from above. Not below

 

[4pyros]

He replaced in post #19 to the right of the green dot. Belive it was browm-red-black-gold diode. Its so black from being smoked. Thanks evrryone for helping. If I can get all new par. Not belowts in that be great. The board seems fine besides charring from above. Not below

Ok thats a resistor, 12ohms probly 1/4 watt.
You will need a new 12ohm resistor and a new bt169 thyristor.
What is your locashoin?

 

[oreoweb6]

Ok thats a resistor, 12ohms probly 1/4 watt.
You will need a new 12ohm resistor and a new bt169 thyristor.
What is your locashoin?

Do you mean my location? If so im near tampa, florida

 

[oreoweb6]

It looks like the timer is a bridge rectifier and I'll assume a relaxation oscillator driving a switch across the rectified voltage (somewhat similar to the attached sketch).

If you can get a better picture of the top and bottom of the PCB, it should be easy to draw a schematic from it and given the values of the parts, it should be easy to suggest which ones are most likely to fail. If you have a multimeter you can test each part and replace ones that aren't up to

Let me know if got pic of board.

 

[4pyros]

Do you mean my location? If so im near tampa, florida

You should add that to your profile.

 

[4pyros]

Digi-Key has the parts
bt169 thyristor = Digi-Key part number 568-8264-ND
12ohm 1/4 watt resister = Digi-Key part number CF14JT12R0CT-ND

 

[oreoweb6]

You should add that to your profile.

Sorry. I forgot about my profile. Thanks I will look up the part. Much appreciated.

 

[oreoweb6]

Yes we need better pictures of the board top and bottom.

View attachment 60249 here is configuration from the bottom