creating timing circuit

[oreoweb6]

Digi-Key has the parts
bt169 thyristor = Digi-Key part number 568-8264-ND
12ohm 1/4 watt resister = Digi-Key part number gkCF14JT12R0CT-ND

I just checked the digi-key website. Thats the thyristor for sure. I double checked and was d not 0 after 169. The glass diode is burnt looking but it seems the
thyristor burnt to. Maybe that why can see the numbers on the glass diode.

 

[oreoweb6]

Ok thats a resistor, 12ohms probly 1/4 watt.
You will need a new 12ohm resistor and a new bt169 thyristor.
What is your locashoin?

I had question. I went through color decoder for the brown-black-red-gold resistor and im getting 1,000 ohms

 

[4pyros]

I had question. I went through color decoder for the brown-black-red-gold resistor and im getting 1,000 ohms

You are right. I was going by what you said in post #33

He replaced in post #19 to the right of the green dot. Belive it was browm-red-black-gold diode.

 

[4pyros]

The glass diode is burnt looking

Can you see any numbers on it?

 

[oreoweb6]

Can you see any numbers on it?

No but its burnt on side facing the burnt resistor so im guessing its from the resistor. Sorry. I got confused on order of resistor color on other post. Is there trick to getting thyristor out? its held by 3 wires into the board. Im guessing I have to heat sink all 3 wires

 

[4pyros]

Is there trick to getting thyristor out? its held by 3 wires into the board. Im guessing I have to heat sink all 3 wires

Cut the top off and pull out the wires one by one.

 

[4pyros]

No but its burnt on side facing the burnt resistor so im guessing its from the resistor.

Ok then we will assume its OK.
But if you want to get some just incase my best gess is its a 1N4148. Thay are only a few cents if you want to order some anyway.

 

[dougy83]

That image of the pcb was not good; here's what I think is going on on your board based on that image.

So the things I would suggest replacing are the 1k resistor, BT169 and the diode (in the middle of the pcb). Also do a diode test on the diodes in the bridge... or just replace every component. I still think c24 is a diac

 

[oreoweb6]

That image of the pcb was not good; here's what I think is going on on your board based on that image.

So the things I would suggest replacing are the 1k resistor, BT169 and the diode (in the middle of the pcb). Also do a diode test on the diodes in the bridge... or just replace every component. I still think c24 is a diac

Even the view close up its hard to tell the circuit paths. Thats the best pic I could get. I know the components to replace except c24. I only say c24 because its on the part on other board that is not hurt. You can see the triangle shape of the solder for bt164. How do I get all 3 wires off at once?

 

[dougy83]

You can see the triangle shape of the solder for bt164. How do I get all 3 wires off at once?

Someone above mentioned cutting the leads then desoldering the left over stumps them 1 by 1.

I generally just heat 1 lead at a time and push the component in the opposite direction - the leads that are still connected act as my lever points - and do that for each lead.

Either way is fine.

 

[oreoweb6]

Ok. Ty. I was thinking of cut off. Was not sure. Sorry 4pyros. I did not see your post. I will look up that glass diode.

 

[oreoweb6]

I cut the semiconductor out and noticed the capicitor took a hit too. Looks like it was blown little less than 1/4" off its base. i can see a H on the glass diode of bad board but the glass diode on other board appears to be c24ph. It appears for sure everything will have to be replaced

 

[oreoweb6]

You were right 4pyros. Its zener diode. Ph means made by philips. I search digi-key but dont see it. Now I have info for all the parts. Seems a chain reaction started in circuit problem

 

[4pyros]

You were right 4pyros. Its zener diode. Ph means made by philips. I search digi-key but dont see it. Now I have info for all the parts. Seems a chain reaction started in circuit problem

c24ph is smd code for a BZX55C24 withch is no longer made. Use a BZX79C24 Digi Key has them;
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/dksearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=BZX79C24-ND

 

[oreoweb6]

Thanks very much. I found capicitor under aluminum and found the resistors. Only problem is the black/silver diodes (int4007 MIC) the other board had WTE. that seems the only difference between the two. Im guessing it different and has play in difference in timing?

 

[4pyros]

Only problem is the black/silver diodes (int4007 MIC) the other board had WTE

Thay are all standerd 1N4007 diodes. Pick any 1N4007 from Digi Key.

 

[oreoweb6]

Ok but still I will have everything the same as on other board. I guess the circuits somehow alternate? the resistor that burnt, I have no idea what its ohms but im guessing what is on the other board is on here.

 

[Reloadron]

This may or may not help. Take a look at Figure 6.6 in this link. That is a pretty basic triac flasher circuit which should resemble what we have here, give or take. The value of the fixed 220uF cap is what determines the timing with the settings of the 100K pot. Both the 100K and 1K could be fixed values for fixed timing intervals.

Ron

 

[4pyros]

Ok but still I will have everything the same as on other board. I guess the circuits somehow alternate? the resistor that burnt, I have no idea what its ohms but im guessing what is on the other board is on here.

Despite the 1N4007 diodes having slightly different numbers. They all are 1N4007 diodes.
The resistors should be the same value from board to board.

 

[4pyros]

This may or may not help. Take a look at Figure 6.6 in this link. That is a pretty basic triac flasher circuit which should resemble what we have here, give or take. The value of the fixed 220uF cap is what determines the timing with the settings of the 100K pot. Both the 100K and 1K could be fixed values for fixed timing intervals.

Ron

Ron; This doesn't even Look close. The OP boards use logic level thyristors not triac's.