I have Burnt out my Ride on lawn mower Regulator and I would like to make one to replace the burnt out one.
The motor has a built in Alternator that supplies 40 V AC 10 Amp Max But the Regulator I have drawn up using a LM317K reg can only supply 1.5 amps
I would like to deliver more current to the battery When it is required.
I know that there can be transistors placed in the circuit to increase the current but I do not know where to place them in the circuit. What transistor would I use
Or is there another way.
I will try to add a attachment.
Can you help
There is only 2 wires coming out of the alternator.
On most alternators I've seen, the two wires are (a) field and (b) three-phase (rectified) stator. The case is the common (ground). What's the source of your information?
There is only 2 wires coming out of the Alternator under the Flywheel one red and one black. I placed a Digital multimeter in series with the 2 wires and reved the motor up until the AC voltage became stable.
Hope this helpes
There is only 2 wires coming out of the Alternator under the Flywheel one red and one black. I placed a Digital multimeter in series with the 2 wires and reved the motor up until the AC voltage became stable.
Hope this helpes
No one had answerd the first post I was trying to add a attachment to the post but could not to that post The post's where 3 minute's apart I do not under stand how to post a link.
I tried to just post the attachment but I had to type in text for me to activate the post.
If I have offended any one then I apologise to them.
I'm thinking that your alternator has a permanent magnet field, and can only be regulated using a "shunt regulator". Here is a previous thread that dealt with this.
No one had answerd the first post I was trying to add a attachment to the post but could not to that post The post's where 3 minute's apart I do not under stand how to post a link.
I tried to just post the attachment but I had to type in text for me to activate the post.
If I have offended any one then I apologise to them.
The battery is 12 V DC
Yes this is a permanent magnet field .
There is only 2 wires from the stator windings as I had removed the flywheel to inspect and test the windings.
I have not don a Load test
I have red a previous post . Could you tell me what components to use for my project and a circuit drawing,
Yes I believe the voltage will drop when a load is placed on the alternator but how much I do not know at this stage.
Below is the post you had don previously The you that was posted in a reply above
Using 50W Zener to regulate motorcycle alternator?
Thank you
regulator is burnt out and sealed including rectifier but it is a external unit.
Is that the circuit in the other post.#13
In that post you have written 1hom 50W resistor. have you inserted that resistor into the Circuit diagram what is Rint in post #15.
Thank you
I updated the schematic specific to your mower (14.2V). You will need to procure a 25A 200V Full-wave Rectifier Bridge to convert the AC output from the alternator stator winding to DC. This is wired between the stator winding and the battery. All of the mower loads, including the lights and ignition, etc, must be connected downstream of the ignition switch. The regulator is built in two pieces, a hand-wired circuit board, the power resistor, and the NFET, which must be bolted to (but electrically insulated from) a large piece of metal.
Thank you for your Circuit
Is there another shunt regulator to use in Place of TL431 as I am having problems obtaining one here in AU
or building the regulator with other parts.
Is it possible to make the bridge rectifier from diodes as I have plenty of different diodes.
The place where I obtain parts has a reasonable range but If I require any from other companies I have to have a business and open up account.
Can you help me with the above
The TL431 (Texas Instruments) or LM431 (National Semi) are widely available and multiply second sourced. I cant believe you cant get them in OZ. I just bought 10 of these the other day at $0.18 ea.
The diodes in the bridge should be rated >20A and >100V.
I have in contact with Jaycar Electronics and they do not supply the Part.
I will try Dick Smith Electronics and see if they have the part but it is not in there Catalog.
Thank you for your help
I may be able to obtain them on line.