Hmm ok i now understand the theory part of it, when width inc. force is distributed
But am not in a idea of using a sprocket till now.. Am using just wheels and belt, i was suggested to use sprocket since there would be slippage between the wheel's gripped OD and smooth inner side of the belt.. If this is the case should the belt be wider? so that it can gain more contact surface with the wheel ?
Yeah, you want to use sprockets to drive the belt because of slippage. It also makes it so you dont need to tension the belt as much, otherwise the belt will have to be very tight. A wide belt with more contact area might help not slip if the belt is tight. But it doesnt help if the belt is loose and part of the belt will always be loose.
Look at a bicycle chain, notice that one side is loose and the other side is tight. If you reverse direction then the side that is loose and under tension switches. The sprocket will either pull the belt into tension or push the belt so it is loose depending on the direction it is rotating and whether the drive sprocket is driving the belt from the middle, front or at the back. This is not good if you are using pulleys since when the sprocket pushes teh belt it gets a bit more loose and you lose tension and the belt might even pop off.
For example a track going forward with the drive sprocket at the front will pull the track on top so it is tight and push the belt on the bottom so it is loose. If you go backwards, then the top gets pushed and becomes loose. This is bad because it means that the loose belt on the bottom well flex over the ground and you lose traction and the belt might even pop off the sprocket. This is why you use idler pulleys to press the bottom of the belt onto the ground and to stop a loose belt from popping off.
If you have the drive sprocket at teh back then the bottom is pulled tight and the top is pushed loose when going forward. And the bottom is pushed loose while teh top is puled tight when going backwards.
If the drive sprocket is driving the just the top or the bottom of the belt from the middle, then one side (left or right) will be pushed loose and the other side will be pulled tight. If you have a sprocket in the middle of the belt that is driving the belt from the top and bottom at same time, then you have top-left, top-right, bottom-left, and bottom-right.
Some designs have the motor/drive sprocket at the front on one side and at teh back on the otehr side because of limited space for the motor. In this case the belt touchign the ground is always loose on one side and tight on the other.
You can use pulleys just to make sure the middle of the belt is pressed to the ground so it doesnt flex over bumps and if the pulley also has a lip then it also helps so the belt doesn't pop off which can be very important especially for long loose tracks. Of course if you are using toothed/timing belts, you can just use idler sprockets too and that stops it from flexing over the ground and popping off. Look at tank tracks. The two large sprockets at the front- one is the drive sprocket. And then there area ton of little pulleys in the middle. These are there to help keep the track from popping off and to press the track against the ground when it is loose. It's one reason why good tracks are very heavy and have lots of little parts.
That's why timing/toothed belts sprockets are preferred over toothless belts for tracks.
I thought if idler wheels are driven by a motor it will also add some pulling force in belt.. seems am wrong its k
Think about it. The idler is not driving the belt. The motor IS driving the idler but it is using the belt to drive the idler so the idler cant possibly be driving the belt. So no extra force.