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Yet another chicken coop door...

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So if I'm digging the motor and mechanism out of the door, would there be any usable components in there? I would think that there might be limit switches but i'm not sure if there are relays separate from the switch.
 
OK with a small motor, two relays and two limit switchs you could run this off a SLA 7ah battery and keep it charged with the right size solor panel and an isolatoin diode.

It seems like Cowboybob's schematic shows 3 relays, are you suggesting a different setup? Where does the isolation diode go?
 
The diode is to protect against reverse current (hooking up the battery backwards), although my schematic did not have that feature. It's easily added.

As it is, using 3 relays (as I showed) is the only way (that I am aware of) to allow for a timer switch, motor reversal (open/close door action) AND limit switches.

And yes, you could salvage the regulator (power window assembly) relays as well. Don't know what vehicle you're scavenging from, but there's relays (in the dash, the engine comparment, somewhere) there for the taking. The relay in the schematic that is connected to the TIMER switch you probably should buy since it doesn't need to be as "beefy" as most that you would find in a vehicle. A point about relays is that they're useful for letting a small curent control a larger current. If you have a Radio Shack, a Model: 275-249 relay would work nicely for only $6usd. It only draws 60mA at 12VDC and can handle >5A at 12VDC which should be plenty for the motor relays.
 
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So if I'm digging the motor and mechanism out of the door, would there be any usable components in there? I would think that there might be limit switches but i'm not sure if there are relays separate from the switch.
What door are you talking about??
 
It seems like Cowboybob's schematic shows 3 relays, are you suggesting a different setup? Where does the isolation diode go?
The isolation diode goes in series with the solor panel to keep it from draining the batttery at night.
 
The door of the car that the window motor is being sourced from.
A charge controller would take the place of that diode, correct?

Yes. Although for this application a controller may be overkill.
 
The door of the car that the window motor is being sourced from.
I would think that there might be limit switches
No thare are no limit switchs on power windows. thay just stall at the top and bottom.
The only good thing in thare will be the motor and the wire that connects to it.
I have seen some peple use the regulater but thats big.
Most of the time the motor is rivited on so you will have to drill it.
Once again I would recomend a smaller motor for a solar powered unit.
 
4pyros has a point. Older regulators were a geared arm assembly that raised/lowered the window. Newer ones use a "ladder" like tape for that purpose. As such it might be more difficult to adapt to a door opening rig. Perhaps not.

I have a sneaking suspicion, though, that being a farmer, you're more than used to adapting what you have to what you need...
 
4pyros has a point. Older regulators were a geared arm assembly that raised/lowered the window. Newer ones use a "ladder" like tape for that purpose. As such it might be more difficult to adapt to a door opening rig. Perhaps not.

I have a sneaking suspicion, though, that being a farmer, you're more than used to adapting what you have to what you need...

Even that has changed, at least in GM cars. My 2000 Pontiac Gran AM had the plastic ladder tape. My 2006 Gran Prix has steel braided cable. An like 4ptros said no limit switches.
 
Holy Thread dig Batman! After a year, I'm back on this thread. I do a lot of lurking looking at electric motors i've scrounged and solar info, but i've finally gotten everything together to complete this. I have built a mechanism out of the passenger side window motor of an early 90's oldsmobile. My wife's first car that still sitting out behind her dad's barn. It is the geared arm assembly. Travels in a slight arc so I made an articulating arm that slides a wooden door in a track. Works great. I'm mounting everything on a particle board panel in my shop that can then be mounted to the coop. I've mounted my limit switches to stop travel, I've got dpdt relays, a 12v timer, solar panel, charge controller. I had a "new" 5AH battery from the emergency stop system on a trailer, but it probably sat idle for a few years before I got it so now it won't take any charge. Any benefit to running a couple of 6V in series? I'm planning on getting a 7AH SLA 12V right now. I have the wiring diagram posted earlier on here, but I'm still trying to understand what wire goes to which pin on the relay. I'm looking for " connect the wire from the timer to pin 5 on relay l then run a wire out of pin 8 to relay 2, pin 1." You get the idea. I've been hooking my solar panel up to some car batteries just to learn more about how it works. Yesterday was very sunny, and the output was 22 volts. I didn't think to check the amps but I will. I'd appreciate any other thoughts or advice on this. My last 2 harebrained scrounger projects worked beautifully, bt
 
I'll still recommend the astronomical timer.

Unfortunately it's hard to put 12 V and astronomical together.

I bought two that are for 120 VAC and they were less than $16 on ebay,
 
As I'm trying to "keep it simple", I'll stick with the 12v timer. As stated on page one this isn't a set and forget system, i'm still out there at least once a day to gather eggs and feed. The timer only takes a few button pushes to change the close and open times.
 
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