Garage door opener motor wiring

[chevy740]

I have a trailer that uses garage door openers to move a room slide. It had really old openers on it before but they have finally died so now I'm trying to wire in the newest genie openers installed but I can't figure out how to wire them the motor only has 2 wires . I'm a 12v guy so I'm lost please help if you can.

 

[chevy740]

Ok I just figured out it's a dc motor so my new question is how do I convert 110 ac to 140v dc or even 12v dc to 140 dc?

 

[ZipZapOuch]

I would buy an old Sony 100W/channel receiver and when you open it up, it will have a +52v DC and -52V DC rail. Tap into those to get your 102VDC.

Your door opener will only need the 140v max when lifting the heaviest loads (or drying to overcome a wet or icy seal of the rubber gasket on the bottom of the door).

In any case, I doubt your room slide requires the max load.

If you dint want to go that route, you can just get a 120v (primary) to 90vAC (secondary) transformer rated at 100 to 200VA. Connect the primary to your AC cord and the secondary to a bridge rectifier. The output will be a pulsing DC but not a huge deal. You can add a fat capacitor to the system if you want but not completely necessary.

To not answer your question, why can't you use the DC supply inside the door opener or even the door opener virtually as it is and the push button to activate it?

 

[chevy740]

I would buy an old Sony 100W/channel receiver and when you open it up, it will have a +52v DC and -52V DC rail. Tap into those to get your 102VDC.

Your door opener will only need the 140v max when lifting the heaviest loads (or drying to overcome a wet or icy seal of the rubber gasket on the bottom of the door).

In any case, I doubt your room slide requires the max load.

If you dint want to go that route, you can just get a 120v (primary) to 90vAC (secondary) transformer rated at 100 to 200VA. Connect the primary to your AC cord and the secondary to a bridge rectifier. The output will be a pulsing DC but not a huge deal. You can add a fat capacitor to the system if you want but not completely necessary.

To not answer your question, why can't you use the DC supply inside the door opener or even the door opener virtually as it is and the push button to activate it?

I'm going to try to use the controller it came with tomorrow but I'm running 2 of them. I'm worried about the sensors. It should have a weight sensor and I'm worried it will stop but it's worth a try. If it doesn't work then I'll go with your suggestion. Thank you

 

[ZipZapOuch]

If you're using the original controller and power supply, You'll need to set up the IR sensors to they point at each other without an object in the way (it's tough to "override" the sensor, they do a good job to avoid liability) and you'll need to test the travel distance before you connect it - it could crush your moving wall if it is set to full strength and it over travels.

 

[chevy740]

I kinda have it working. Now the only problem is getting the two openers to work at the same time if one is slightly slower it gets stuck but I'll keep fiddling with it.

 

[ZipZapOuch]

I kinda have it working. Now the only problem is getting the two openers to work at the same time if one is slightly slower it gets stuck but I'll keep fiddling with it.

I don't think it would take more than half-power to move your wall. You could use the drive system of one opener or to run both motors. Then they are sure to turn on/off together.

 

[Tony Stewart]

The start surge on DC motors is about 10x rated current and 10% with no load. You can't alter the start surge, so two motor/walls is double. That's Ohm's Law with 140Vdc / DCR The controller usually senses current to stop.

 

[shokjok]

Ok I just figured out it's a dc motor so my new question is how do I convert 110 ac to 140v dc or even 12v dc to 140 dc?

110VAC rectified and regulated will give you 140VDC. 12VDC feeding a step-up switching inverter, with the engine running, should suffice to operate the sliders.