V30010 MOSFET replacement?

[Monouk]

Im not sure if anyone here is an RC fan, but theres a micro car called a Mini X, and the ESC has 5 MOSFETs on the surface. Usually, a similar ESC would have 2 P and 2 N FETs. However, the board is weird.

There are two types of FETs that I want to replace. Theres a cluster of 4, 3 of which are the same. Its a 3 pin case, and printed on it is "V30010 H1 28 L" and a little thing that looks like a peice of paper with an i in it.

The other one also has "V30010" printed on the top, but below it is the paper thing, but the line goes horizontal, and then it has "T046L". Theres only 1 of these, which is odd.

In the poor excuse for data on what they call the "ESC-100" (not the duratraxx/futaba one) says "OPTION V3001FET 2pcs" and a site that sells the cars says "V3100FET" which could be a typo...does anyone have ANY clue what the heck these things are?

I think I found something close made by fairchild, datasheet can be found here: https://www.electro-tech-online.com/custompdfs/2004/04/RFD16N05LSM.pdf

What I want to do is replace these FETs with ones with lower resistance, or stack more of the originals in parallel to lower resistance for more power. I could do that if I knew what I was looking for. From what I can tell, the entire board is rated at 4.8-7.2v input, .03ohms (something says here OHMx2) internal resistance, with 8A mac current. I can post some pictures if people need it, or you can find it here with the possible typo on the V30010s **broken link removed**

Who here has ANY clue what I can do with this thing for less resistance? One of its competetive cars, Kyosho Mini Zs, use Si4562DY FETs as the top of the line replacement upgrade, and people stack them for less resistance. I want to do somthing similar here, but even the fact that there are 3 of one type and 1 of the other is so confusing...I have no clue what to look for here...

 

[Russlk]

In the first place, changing the ON resistance from .03 ohms to .047 ohms is no help. In the second place, the ON resistance of the switch has nothing to do with how much current you get thru the motor. What are you trying to accomplish?

 

[Monouk]

I never said I wanted to swap out a FET with higher on resistance. Thats the complete opposite of what I want to do. By putting 2 fets in parallel, the on resistance becomes .015, which is enough to give a noticable increase on torque for the motor.

What Im trying to do is figure out why the board is set up so strangly, with no matched pairs of N and P FETs, and figure out what the stock ones are so I can find either a suitable replacement or more of the same.

 

[ante]

The ON resistance has a lot to with the torque and the current it’s a simple as ohms law.

Ante :roll:

 

[Monouk]

Thank you ante...but I still dont have a clue about the part numbers on the ones I have. No one can even explain the layout...with....5 fets...?

 

[ante]

Monouk,
Does it have forward / reverse control? Then one cluster is for forward and one for reverse.
I think the single one "T046L" can be used as brake, that’s a normal circuit. Can you make out the polarity by looking at the pcb? Have you tried to contact the manufacturer for help on this issue?
As long as they have the same polarity, configuration and enough voltage/current I think it is safe to change.

Ante :roll:

 

[Monouk]

It does have forward reverse, which I would think it was normally. However, in the 4 that are a cluster, 3 are one type, 1 is different. Normally 2 are P, and 2 are N...in this case, 3 are P or N, and 1 is the other. The 3 that are the same are the only ones that are the same. It goes 3, 1, 1. The 5th one thats not in the cluster could be brakes, its also a slightly different size.

I have heard of one person stacking them before, but I have no clue who it is to ask them about it. And the manufacturer seems to only speak chinese...but I guess it doesnt hurt to ask and hope they have someone who speaks english.

I cant make out the polarity, however the odd one in the cluster does somthing weird. When I use my multimeter to test resistance, if I put (I think) negative on the middle pin, and positive one one of the outside legs, my multimeter switches to Kohms, then to ohms, then to Kohms, and back and fourth always displaying OL (overload). Ive never seen it do that before. The other 3 in the cluster dont do that at all.