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Road to success (in hobby electronics)

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Oh and remember how you guys were saying that my workspace was a little too neat and that that would change....

Well it has and here are the pictures. Mind you, it is not as messy as some of your workspaces but this is pretty messy for me :D
 

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When your shop looks like this, then we can compare notes :)
 

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So, you thinking more about that door table idea the 3V0 had yet?
 
So, you thinking more about that door table idea the 3V0 had yet?

LOL I knew someone would mention something about the cramped space. It's okay... I can deal with it... when I need space I just sweep my arm across the table and make room :)

And my workspace will probably never look like yours. I don't think I will ever have machines... maybe a dremel tool at the most.

By the way, I modified my logic probe but am tired of posting pics so I will just explain what I modified. I basically added two more male header pins. One for a 1 Hz signal output and another for a 10 Hz output signal since the PIC12F508 that is on there has two pins that output a pulse. I can use these as timers for any other circuit I may build without having to go through the hassle of programming a PIC or setting up a 555 timer.
 
And my workspace will probably never look like yours. I don't think I will ever have machines...

In time, you will want more toys. Power toys is the general progression. I love being able to build my own hardware and such.
 
ZOMG me too! I want one so bad.

This is the mill I have.
https://littlemachineshop.com/Info/minimill.php

https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=47158

It was on sale for $300. so I had to get it. Considering the price, it works quite well after a few modifications to the table and such. There are many internet sites listing mods to improve the mill.
The mill is good for light work, I mostly use aluminum, but table chatters with harder material. I also bought the mini lathe from HF. My favorite toy:)
 
Word of advise. Never try to use that proto-board for any rf circuits. You will be greatly frustrated and nothing will replicated onto a regular PC board if you get anything to work. Take for instance, you might pull off a single low frequency rf oscillator but if you use the same components on a PC board or a board you wire yourself, if it still works your frequency will probably be way off.
 
@Mikebits

Did you get the mini or the micro mill? If you have the micro, here are a few suggestions:
1) Get a set of MT2 collets. Eventually you will need clearance under the head. Alternatively, and a lot more expensive, a collet chuck with self-releasing E-series collets will work.
2) Do not trust the fine downfeed for precise work. Rig a cheap dial indicator to the spindle housing (non-rotating part) and use that for setting depth of cut.
3) I always lock the spindle after adjustment before milling.
4) I have disassembled two units and there is quite a lack of QC on the gibbs. You might want to check the gibbs, be sure they are flat and re-install.

I made this mounting ring for an electric model last winter on my micro-mill. The counterbored holes is where I learned not to trust the fine feed. They are a little too deep.

John
 

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@Mikebits

Did you get the mini or the micro mill? If you have the micro, here are a few suggestions:

Oops, your right JP, the first link was for a mini mill. I have the micro mill from HF.
1) Get a set of MT2 collets. Eventually you will need clearance under the head. Alternatively, and a lot more expensive, a collet chuck with self-releasing E-series collets will work.
I have three. See photo.

2) Do not trust the fine downfeed for precise work. Rig a cheap dial indicator to the spindle housing (non-rotating part) and use that for setting depth of cut.
In my to do list.

3) I always lock the spindle after adjustment before milling.
I do this as well.

4) I have disassembled two units and there is quite a lack of QC on the gibbs. You might want to check the gibbs, be sure they are flat and re-install.
The stock gibbs are bad. Can't remember where now, but I ordered a after market set from the net somewhere.

I made this mounting ring for an electric model last winter on my micro-mill. The counterbored holes is where I learned not to trust the fine feed. They are a little too deep.

John

I also made a spindle mod, as the stock ran rough. See photo. If interested, I can pop the cover a provide photo :)
 

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For the MT-2 collets, I was referring to a regular split collet. When I had my rotary table on the XY table for making the adapter ring, I needed every inch I could get. The cutter holders you have are more rigid, but the the split collet set (import) was only about $30 and gave me the space I needed. My rotary table is a larger and much older Palmgren. The little 4" ones might be fine, but when milling, nothing beats having mass and rigidity.

How did you modify the spindle? That was actually one reason I rebuilt the head. The local HF was nice enough to let me take the best parts from each of two units: the one I bought and one someone else had returned. Mine runs pretty smooth now.

John
 
How did you modify the spindle? That was actually one reason I rebuilt the head. The local HF was nice enough to let me take the best parts from each of two units: the one I bought and one someone else had returned. Mine runs pretty smooth now.
Oh. My collets are fixed for only one bit sized. Never used split ones.

I am embarrassed to say that I now can't remember what the heck I did as it has been awhile. I just remember I hated the spindle. I think I replaced the upper shaft and made some sort of bearing rig. You got me wondering now. So I promise that I will dig out my notes, and rip the cover off the thing to figure out what I had done. Dang memory :(
 
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The reason the spindle knob looks so chewed up in the photo was due to my cheap HF lathe losing grip of the part a few times during Fab :) The part was soft, so I did not want to crush it.
 
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