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Repairing tweeters in stereo system

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New Member
I have a B&W 700 system of speakers. They are 20-years old and the tin foil tweeter domes have failed in two speakers. I have purchased replacement domes and need a glue to firmly attach their foam seal to the metal tweeter assembly. Can someone tell me what type glue to use?
Thank you!
 
I have a B&W 700 system of speakers. They are 20-years old and the tin foil tweeter domes have failed in two speakers. I have purchased replacement domes and need a glue to firmly attach their foam seal to the metal tweeter assembly. Can someone tell me what type glue to use?
Thank you!
Post a photo of each part and the "assembled" part.

It's a delicate balance. A soft glue will dampen the high frequency vibrations needed for proper performance. A hard glue may shatter by the high frequency vibrations.

The recommended glues for normal speakers is a tacky white glue - the kind from the craft stores for gluing fabric. Keep the bond-line as thin as possible to prevent too much damping of the vibrations. Put a thin coat on both pieces before assembly to make sure the bond line is strong. Usually, when trying to glue with a minimum of glue, the second piece (uncoated piece) doesn't get good contact with the adhesive so put a thin coat on both and let the we edges meet up.
 
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Seen 'contact cement / shoe glue' being used for that.
That's fine for bass and mid but those soft glues definitely dampen the 10kHz and above - and even lower frequencies as the bond line is thicker
 
Post a photo of each part and the "assembled" part.

It's a delicate balance. A soft glue will dampen the high frequency vibrations needed for proper performance. A hard glue may shatter by the high frequency vibrations.

The recommended glues for normal speakers is a tacky white glue - the kind from the craft stores for gluing fabric. Keep the bond-line as thin as possible to prevent too much damping of the vibrations. Put a thin coat on both pieces before assembly to make sure the bond line is strong. Usually, when trying to glue with a minimum of glue, the second piece (uncoated piece) doesn't get good contact with the adhesive so put a thin coat on both and let the we edges meet up Roadside Assistance.
i had the foresight to take my KEFs out of the lounge before my son had friends over. i put the wharfedale crystal 40 from the gym there instead.

however i am not smart enough to know that not everyone understands what " too loud" and "you will damage the speakers" means.

sooo, i now have two speakers with blown tweeters. they are unpleasant sounding. they were never great but they were tolerable for the gym and occasional pulled in for duty for other things.

i am not keen to spend alot on them but would rather make them usable again then throw them out. the tweeters do not look easily accessible though. are there externally mountable replacement tweeters with built in capacitors? any other suggestions?
 
Post photos
 
If you are looking for an adhesive for the speaker cone, you can get some suggestions here.
Unfortunately, Scott Graham knows a lot about adhesives and material compatibilities but not a lot about how the durometer of the adhesive impacts audio performance - specifically on the damping of high frequencies. .
 
This might help.

Nope, just adds to the confusion. The OP said...

...the tin foil tweeter domes have failed in two speakers.

The article calls the carbon dome tweeters...
B&W Carbon Dome Tweeter (Left pic)

Adhesives responds to different materials differently. Also, those are fully assembled domes in the tweeter. For me to give proper advice, it would be good to see how the dome fits the bezel or the flange they are mounting to and what the second material may be. To achieve that, it would be great if the OP could post a photo (photos) of your disassembled speaker.
 
Nope, just adds to the confusion. The OP said...



The article calls the carbon dome tweeters...


Adhesives responds to different materials differently. Also, those are fully assembled domes in the tweeter. For me to give proper advice, it would be good to see how the dome fits the bezel or the flange they are mounting to and what the second material may be. To achieve that, it would be great if the OP could post a photo (photos) of your disassembled speaker.

My point is.....shouldn't try to replace the cone. If replaced, I doubt it will perform the same.
Better to just replace the tweeter unit if possible.
 

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