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Regulator

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Skyace

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I have a Mitsubishi colt czc .the regulator rear window has failed.replacements are expensive.would just replacing the motor and cables on the old unit work.thanks
 
would just replacing the motor and cables on the old unit work
Presumably, providing the failure is due to those parts. Do you have a multimeter to check them? Have you checked the fuse in that circuit?
 
I believe he's talking about the "window regulator" which is a fancy (and official) term for the assembly that raises and lowers the window.

The window regulator I am familiar with is a scissors lift that raises the window. The failure mode I am familiar with is a weld breaking in the mechanical assembly, so the window isn't lift from each end.

So the failure options are:
• mechanical – broken or worn bearings and other parts
• motor – failure to turn at all or slop and grinding noises
• control system – motor is not energized
 
Presuming the motor has failed.and a new or one salvaged from a breakers hard but is still fully working .along with new cables that the motor pulls.would be a lot cheaper than a entire new regulator which is very expensive on this model as helps operate the retractable roof.my question is would this cheaper fix be sufficient to operate this duel function.?thanks
 
The window regulators that I have seen have consisted of the motor/gearbox assembly, the steel cables and the guides. When that assembly isn't fitted in a car door or body, it's all floppy and the guides don't stay parallel.

Threading the cables is a pain. The guides on their own aren't going to be much use for anything.

The people at the breakers yard know this, so I would have expected them to remove the entire regulator assembly in one piece. Obviously a used regulator will be far cheaper than a new one, but I would have thought that you would be replacing the entire regulator either way.
 
Here is a typical second-hand window regulator for sale:- http://www.2040-parts.com/96-02-vw-...ger-power-window-regulator-motor-mk3-i604298/

The rails have to be parallel when in the car or it won't work, but their relative positions change between the different photos, because without a car to hold the whole lot, the rails can move independently of each other, with just the flexible cables keeping them together.

I think that is what a new or a salvaged regulator will look like.
 
I believe he's talking about the "window regulator" which is a fancy (and official) term for the assembly that raises and lowers the window.

The window regulator I am familiar with is a scissors lift that raises the window. The failure mode I am familiar with is a weld breaking in the mechanical assembly, so the window isn't lift from each end.

So the failure options are:
• mechanical – broken or worn bearings and other parts
• motor – failure to turn at all or slop and grinding noises
• control system – motor is not energized
Yes, I believe too he is talking about the “window regulator”.
 
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