PCBs with a PhotoCopier?

[HarveyH42]

Yeah, I usually cover as much copper as practical. This was a quick test of a demo program. I, of course, don't read manuals or check the help files (unless all else fails...). Only get two days off, so rushed through it. I've been wanting to board this for a month. Another plus for ground planes, etches much quicker.

Anyway, I just want to show how thin the traces were. If I really wanted to get you guys going, I would post a picture of the sloppy solder job (been needing a new tip for a while).

I did the layout, etch, drill, soldering, and final assembly in a $5.97 globe light fixture (socket/switch removed) in under 3 hours, including fixing breakfast.

 

[mramos1]

Harvey,

I know what you mean. I make nice boards, then I either make them ugly
with a rush drill job, or if I solder in the garage with the bad tip on that iron.

I think I will replace the iron soon.

I have gotten up Sat AM, do breakfast, print, iron on toner, etch, drill and stuff. Product before noon. It is a good feeling (QTY 1 unit of course).

Last time I did it was after I bought some AVR Tiny11 (long bad story), but I pulled a PCB for a programmer, and by noon had a programmer done.

 

[HarveyH42]

I think the quick results is great. Nothing beats the feeling when you first hook up the power, and it actually works. If not, it's kind of cool trying to find where you screwed up, although when it gets down search for bad components it sort of sucks.

I'm really not into it for production work, already have a job that takes up too much time.

 

[mramos1]

I'm really not into it for production work, already have a job that takes up too much time.

Oh do I hear that.. I have to save the fun for the weekends. 3 kids on top sortta changes ones fun. Actually, off to play basketball with them, so it is just a different fun.

All of boards mine either work or I have a bad solder joint (or short from one). But the parts always work for me. That would be a drag.. (thank goodness).

 

[3v0]

I do use an HP1020 Laserjet ($129) and laminator ($24) to make decent PCBs. Tried the photopaper, but its a hassle to get the paper to seperate from the toner, usually some repair work with a pen.

Is this a DIY or purchased laminator. I just latched on to an old laser printer to convert for transfering the toner. If I can get a laminator for $24 I will not bother. The lowest price I have seen is about $60.

Has anyone tried printing on cooking parchment or alu foil. I read about
it on another board some time ago. Tape the parchment or foil (cut to your board size) to a regular sheet of paper using bits of laser printer mailing lables for tape (regular tape may gunk up printer).

 

[HarveyH42]

Here is where I got mine.

https://www.sciplus.com/singleItem.cfm?terms=11093&cartLogFrom=Search

It only goes 4" wide, which is fine for most of my boards. I've only done about 20 or so boards though it, but no problems. I haven't tried any thick copper through it, but don't see it that often surplus anymore. The thinner stuff is easier to work. I can use my paper cutter, holes drill quicker and easier. Plus it seems to etch quick (thinner copper layer?). Anyway, it's a good investment for smaller boards (pretty much all I do). If you ever tried with a household clothes iron, you won't regret it.

 

[Overclocked]

Here is where I got mine.

https://www.sciplus.com/singleItem.cfm?terms=11093&cartLogFrom=Search

It only goes 4" wide, which is fine for most of my boards. I've only done about 20 or so boards though it, but no problems. I haven't tried any thick copper through it, but don't see it that often surplus anymore. The thinner stuff is easier to work. I can use my paper cutter, holes drill quicker and easier. Plus it seems to etch quick (thinner copper layer?). Anyway, it's a good investment for smaller boards (pretty much all I do). If you ever tried with a household clothes iron, you won't regret it.

Yea but you still need a Laser Printer Dont You? I actually have a laser printer with toner I got at a tagsale for (well the lot of items cost 7 bucks!) Theres just no cord to hook it up. THe cord cost 30 bucks, and if I get the cord I wont even know if it works. Ive turned applied power and it does turn on...

 

[mramos1]

Here is where I got mine.

https://www.sciplus.com/singleItem.cfm?terms=11093&cartLogFrom=Search

It only goes 4" wide, which is fine for most of my boards. I've only done about 20 or so boards though it, but no problems. I haven't tried any thick copper through it, but don't see it that often surplus anymore. The thinner stuff is easier to work. I can use my paper cutter, holes drill quicker and easier. Plus it seems to etch quick (thinner copper layer?). Anyway, it's a good investment for smaller boards (pretty much all I do). If you ever tried with a household clothes iron, you won't regret it.

I bought some for $1.75 (per sheet) from Electronics gold mine. It is pretty neat stuff. I like that I can cut it with sissors.
Sorry, I was writing about the thin copper clad board.

 

[HarveyH42]

Yea but you still need a Laser Printer Dont You? I actually have a laser printer with toner I got at a tagsale for (well the lot of items cost 7 bucks!) Theres just no cord to hook it up. THe cord cost 30 bucks, and if I get the cord I wont even know if it works. Ive turned applied power and it does turn on...

$30 for a printer cable? What kind of cable is it? Parallel port or USB should be around $5. Never messed with network stuff. Maybe someone you know will let you borrow a cable to test it out. Toner cartridges are expensive though, and you don't know what kind of shape a used one will be in. Might even be why the printer was so cheap. Lots of people refill their own toner cartridges, instead of paying $60-$90 for a new one. They keep reusing it, until it fails completely, and blame the printer.

The cable... If you got the price from the people who make the printer, shop around...

 

[HarveyH42]

I bought some for $1.75 (per sheet) from Electronics gold mine. It is pretty neat stuff. I like that I can cut it with sissors.
Sorry, I was writing about the thin copper clad board.

That's the stuff I used. I've only used it on two projects so far, but its good stuff. Made a couple of light bars, for growing plants (well cactus at the moment), had to replace several Piranha LEDs (several times). It holds up well to being resoldered. I've had trace come loose on some thicker copper in the past.

 

[mramos1]

It holds up well to being resoldered. I've had trace come loose on some thicker copper in the past.

Funny you mention that. I just did an ICD2 (inchworm board) on a thick board and many of the pads came off. When I did the project before, I used the flexible thin stuff and did not have that problem. It was pretty cheap too. Next order I will get more.

I saw there was talk of a lanimator? I tried to move the toner from inkjet photo paper to copper with mine and no luck.. I did inkjet paper in the laser, iron it on the CLEAN copper and make mine and it is fantastic other than getting the photo paper coating off before I etch.

 

[HarveyH42]

I'm getting a solar charge/control project ready. Probably do a board next week. I'll try the photo paper with the laminator on that one. I'll post a picture When I get it done.

 

[mramos1]

I'm getting a solar charge/control project ready. Probably do a board next week. I'll try the photo paper with the laminator on that one. I'll post a picture When I get it done.

Well I have had no luck with the laminator. BUT if you find a good one let me know.. Use an iron..

I saved a fuser from a Panasonic KXP-4400 to make a better one (old laser printer that died). But the ones from the store today.. They do not get hot enough.

 

[Overclocked]

$30 for a printer cable? What kind of cable is it? Parallel port or USB should be around $5. Never messed with network stuff. Maybe someone you know will let you borrow a cable to test it out. Toner cartridges are expensive though, and you don't know what kind of shape a used one will be in. Might even be why the printer was so cheap. Lots of people refill their own toner cartridges, instead of paying $60-$90 for a new one. They keep reusing it, until it fails completely, and blame the printer.

The cable... If you got the price from the people who make the printer, shop around...

Well Guess what! I relized after reading your post, that it had a copier function (well I knew it had it, but never tried it) So First I perform a test with a peice of paper with something written on it using a pencil. It came out, But Not very bright. Next I tried marker, Worked! Then I tried a real Life test. First I printed out a schematic from my Inkjet, Then Fed it into the Copier section of the printer, and Voila! Sucess! The printer has succesfuly reprinted it with no errors!

Except...There a very faint line running down the middle of the paper, Its very faint, but remember this was without a PC, I assume once I hook it up to a PC it can be calibrated! But will it effect my PCB?

Anyway, Its a parallel port connector. This is the printer:
**broken link removed**

More info:
**broken link removed**

Its 600 DPI, Is that good enough?

Before I forget, I went to a tagsale and was looking at some old computers. There was someone else looking at them, so I had to make a quick move. The Guy gave me, P400, K6200, and a 486. He also have me a dot matrix Printer, this laser printer, Speakers, a 15 inch monitor and Cords, all for 7 Bucks. I asked him if they all worked, he said yes. As soon as I got home, They all worked .

Im so excited that it works! Now I have to go to staples and get their paper :excited:

 

[Marks256]

I have always wondered how to make a PCB. How do you do that with photoocopier, or a lazer printer? Do you just run a sheet of paper through it, then trace it on a chemical PCB? How does it work?

 

[Overclocked]

I have always wondered how to make a PCB. How do you do that with photoocopier, or a lazer printer? Do you just run a sheet of paper through it, then trace it on a chemical PCB? How does it work?

Google is your Friend.

In a Nutshell, You print the PCB out On some type of Transferable Paper, Either Press and Peel Or Staples PhotoPaper. Use a Iron (you know the type to press cloths) and transfer it on a copper board. You then soak it in water so the paper comes off, Make any corrections using a marker, then put the board in etchant. Once all the copper is gone, rub the remaining stuff with acetone, then your ready!

 

[Marks256]

Oh! That makes scence. Are they reliable? (Also, my internet homepage is google! )

 

[Overclocked]

Oh! That makes scence. Are they reliable? (Also, my internet homepage is google! )

I have heard so, They are also look Professional!

 

[mramos1]

Remind me tomorrow to list what I do in another nutshell. Been at the pub and going to bed.

Mine work very well everytime (after I was told how to do it). The key is clean the copper good and iron the toner on the copper (iron HOT and press hard).

The sharpie is to fill in the areas you are not using to save the etchant. If you did not clean the copper well and/or iron hot and hard, then use it to fix your mistakes.

 

[Overclocked]

Remind me tomorrow to list what I do in another nutshell. Been at the pub and going to bed.

Mine work very well everytime (after I was told how to do it). The key is clean the copper good and iron the toner on the copper (iron HOT and press hard).

The sharpie is to fill in the areas you are not using to save the etchant. If you did not clean the copper well and/or iron hot and hard, then use it to fix your mistakes.

ADD to your post- Use a Scrub Brush or Steel Wool, Sandpaper seems to ruin it. ( Ive used 220, Unless thats probably too much. I have 1200 grit, but havent tried it with that)