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You will find that a pilot or center pin is needed, unless the drill press is reasonably rigid and the piece you are working on is clamped to the table. In other words, something like a light weight milling machine. The process is similar to using a spade drill. A spade drill without a center pin can be used on wood, e.g., to enlarge a hole, if you hold the piece well and the hole is not too big. However, copper is much harder than wood to machine as it is stringy, and the cutter will grab into it.
For the price, you could buy them and see how they work. They may have some sort of pilot/center pin that is not shown in the pictures.
Thank you, I have ordered them and some other types that I hope will do the job.
I have a terrible drill stand but it may help to cut .15 mm of copper making a 6 mm circle.
These orders take weeks. I'll post when I know more.
It is sold by many on-line stores at a VERY wide range of prices.
It's design is overly simple. Metal grinds against metal and the longer you use it the less control over it's movement you have. No amount of polishing or lubricating can improve this thing. Even the locking bolt is so cheap that the threads are stripped and I am looking for a replacement.
That looks incredibly similar to the one I got from Lidl, which I have not had any problems with apart from a little sideways play. Theirs is made by either Powerfix or Parkside - I don't think you can get those brands anywhere else though.
Maybe yours just needs taking apart and having a liberal application of grease. I love grease, it makes allsorts of things start working again...
throbscottle, I have taken it apart (it comes as a kit) and have polished and oiled, not greased.
If your's is working well then you have not run it up and down 20 times.
Mine is model TS-6109 Drill Stand. No company has put their name on it or the box or pamphlet.
It is from China.
The lateral movement instead of clean up & down grinds the part holding the drill against the pole in two places. (at the top & bottom on opposite sides, front & back)
A simple design but terribly flawed.
That's a shame. The running surfaces mustn't be smooth then, since even that design shouldn't wear out that quickly. I think mine must have done over 100 holes by now, no noticeable wear. Pretty sure it's made in Ireland.
Aluminum on aluminum or even other metals does not slide well and galls easily; some alloys are particularly bad. I once made an aluminium bolt and nut using a standard fit. Got them screwed together OK, but never got them apart. Graphite in glycerin(?) is made to lubricate threads for aircraft spark plugs. That is steel against aluminum. You might try graphite in an oil, like is used for locks. Not sure how molybdenum would work. I would stay away from it, unless you can find some reliable source that recommends it.
In searching for molybdenum grease and aluminum, I came across this reference for the use of graphite on aluminum: https://www.mechanicsupport.com/graphite_antiseize.html Apparently, its use for aircraft spark plugs is an exception. A factoid that may be worth remembering.
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