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Macro pictures with common point & shoot cameras

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atferrari

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Thinking of taking macro pictures with a common point & shoot digital camera, my questions:

A) What are your personal suggestions to get the best pictures (more details / zoom).

B) I recall reading a suggestion combining a magnifier with the camera. Anything I could try? My attempts on this regard have always failed.

C) Using the best daylight instead of a poor illumination inside, always works better. Can anyone say why? Shutter speed related?

D) Been suggested to use the maximum possible of megapixels the camera can do. My tests with 2 and 8 Mp gave what I believe are equivalent results.

Edit to add:

My camera has macro mode.

/Edit
 
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When I shoot macro, indoors or out, I put the camera's flash into "forced" mode, and diffuse/dim it with little piece of a white plastic shopping bag taped on. If indoors, I get as much off-camera light onto the subject as I reasonably can (I don't have any special equipment such as a lightbox, etc.) Sometimes I then find that the flash wasn't needed and switch it off before reshooting.

To minimize distortion, if the subject is large enough I will use normal mode at maximum zoom, rather than macro mode, but for my camera this requires about ~ 3 ft (1 m) distance in order for the camera to be able to focus. Also, my camera is rather old and has a maximum resolution of 2 megapixels, so if the subject will occupy much less than the middle third of the frame, I'll switch to macro instead of zoom.
 
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Fortunately the camera has a macro mode so use it. You do not mention the camera model and make but if the camera allows for the use of a tripod then use one or find an alternate method to steady the camera. If the camera is strictly point and shoot I assume you have no control over aperture setting or shutter speed? I would read the manual for the camera and see what they have to say about using the macro mode effectively.

Ron
 
The two biggest things, I think are:

1) External, diffused lighting
2) Tripod

The 3rd is a remote shutter (can be manual, just not on the camera body) to keep vibrations out of the pic.

I have an add-on macro lens for an SLR camera and I always ave a UV filter installed. If for nothing more, to protect the lens.
 
What is the lens-subject distance? If only a few cm, then getting enough light on to the subject is a problem. The flash will probably be too far off axis to be useful. LED lights may help. Keeping the camera and subject absolutely still is vital. You may need to use manual focussing if available.
For ultra-close-ups you can position an ordinary magnifying glass in front of the lens, but there will probably then be some vignetting of the image.
 
This gets off topic but before I retired from work every now and then I had to take some pictures. For macro photography I had the pleasure of using one of these lights. Takes care of as KISS mentions diffusion of the light and distance mentioned by Alec. Goes right on the lens. I have considered one for my own camera but not sure I want to pop close to the $500 USD price tag. Before I retired I could borrow the unit at work. Now that I think about it I miss several things from work. I just don't miss work. :) Those ring lights are really sweet though. Damn, so many would like to haves and only one birthday and one Christmas on the horizon. :)

Some point and shoot cameras do offer a few manual features and some do not, just depends on the camera. I like manual features because I see them as allowing more creativity and flexibility but obviously fully automatic point and shoot has its merits also.

Ron
 
I use a x2 illuminated magnifier to photograph really small stuff. Makes a ring of lights on the picture, but the thing I'm interested in is usually smaller than that anyway.
 
Thanks to all replying.

I use it in macro mode with zoom completely off and tripod if I have time for that.. Distance (as per manual) is 5 cm. Otherwise, zoom in tel (maximum), makes for 40 cm.

This afternoon, with sun light reflected by the departament in front of mine, I took three macro pictures with 8 Megapixels, 4 Megapixels and VGA. The last gave the best picture.

It seems that no further tweaking is posible.
 
Ron:

I forgot about the ring light. My dentist used one. Spectacular pics. See: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/buy/Macro-Ringlights/ci/649/N/4168864821 for cheaper variants.

That's what I have been thinking about getting. Try an inexpensive flavor and see how well they work. Been taking pictures of ammunition in various stages of being loaded and ammunition components. I need to get a good remote and could use a good tripod. My tripod sucks. :)

Atferrai, Yes, just keep experimenting for your best results. While slightly limited sometimes, many point and shoot cameras do a great job.

Ron
 
It's just a pain to dig out all of the stuff to take a fine pic.

I believe that covers it well. Right now I have an old Canon EOS 10D which is about to find its way to my son, maybe then I'll get better grand kids pictures. He gets it with a standard lens. I replaced it a few years ago with a Canon EOS 7D which I really like. I have a nice 100mm Canon Macro Lens F 2.8 (and a 300mm zoom). I just don't shoot as much as I once did, with the exception of my gun stuff (no pun intended). :) We just had a gorgeous Fall season and the colors were great. This year I never even made it out to take pictures. This morning I woke up to 8" of snow on the deck, I guess Fall is over. :)

I really need to build myself a nice little bench for doing the macro stuff as I really like macro photography and that would afford an opportunity to include some lighting. I like screwing with the depth of field for cool effects. I like what you linked to, snap on lens. Totally agree that great shots is all about the lighting. I finally have the time for all this stuff, I need to get my butt in gear.

Ron
 
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