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In need of some project assistance

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Your right 0 digital inputs on the 6 and 12 model. Looks like you'd have to use the 18 unless there was a way to get creative.

We can't see other issues that could arise, e.g. let's say because of mounting, one needed 10 deg and 100 deg or -45 and +45 deg.

All I'm really advocating is a single device for the most part and it even does the servo power I believe.

With any design, there is still lots of other stuff like the case and weatherproof switches that have to be added.
This is a car environment and as long as the key works when it fails your still ok. Nothing mission critical. But because it's a automotive environment we have to treat it that way. A motorcycle environment is probably worse. It might mean that it could work for a year without problems and you do have to go back and add power protection or more robust power protection.
Transorb (TVS), fuse and reversed biased diode I think is where to start,
 
Your right 0 digital inputs on the 6 and 12 model. Looks like you'd have to use the 18 unless there was a way to get creative.

We can't see other issues that could arise, e.g. let's say because of mounting, one needed 10 deg and 100 deg or -45 and +45 deg.

All I'm really advocating is a single device for the most part and it even does the servo power I believe.

With any design, there is still lots of other stuff like the case and weatherproof switches that have to be added.
This is a car environment and as long as the key works when it fails your still ok. Nothing mission critical. But because it's a automotive environment we have to treat it that way. A motorcycle environment is probably worse. It might mean that it could work for a year without problems and you do have to go back and add power protection or more robust power protection.
Transorb (TVS), fuse and reversed biased diode I think is where to start,
So now we are back to overkill. LOL
But thats fine its up to the OP anyway.
 
Hi to all,

Maybe if it was myself with the bike I would go a different way and just have a car lock solenoid that was activated when the ignition was on so you could open the box only when the ignition was on as an extra safety feature. No need for any timers or circuits at all.

I always try to do the simplest method as there is then less to go find when it goes wrong. And on a hostile environment like a bike it would probably be the safest bet.

What is your location? I may be able to help you out, I know I have a few door lock solenoids around!

Al
 
Thanks for all your input, i shall have a goo with what alec_t came up with and see how it goes from there as it seems the best option to me, so thanks again for all posts on this much appreciated. :)

(P.S: Any more posts in the future on this topic are still very much welcome and appreciated so be my guest on your view.)
 
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