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failure with project!

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audioguru said:
4electros said:
but the weakest battery is new, i bought it few months ago but i haven't used it until this project, so i'm surprised for that weakness, what should i do now?
Duh! My Energizer alkaline 9V batteries are stamped "best before 2011" and always work well. Maybe yours expired in 1991. The Chinese batteries at the dollar store are leaking still in their packages. I wonder how old they are. I wonder why people buy that junk.

Did you load it with anything that got hot or made the battery hot?
The cells inside a little 9V battery are skinny AAAA size and can't provide much power for very long. Anything that causes heat uses a lot of power.

my battery is stamped "03-2006","Product of Gold Peak Group", " made in china"
http://www.gpbatteries.com.hk

I don't think that i loaded it with anything that got it hot!
 
I've seen GP batteries sold in only 1 store. I won't touch them because the store buys that cheap junk from China then sells them at the same price as good batteries that are made here.
Don't your cheap batteries leak?
 
audioguru said:
I've seen GP batteries sold in only 1 store. I won't touch them because the store buys that cheap junk from China then sells them at the same price as good batteries that are made here.
Don't your cheap batteries leak?

ok.what should i do ?! what about the project at all , tell me please!
 
4electros said:
audioguru said:
I've seen GP batteries sold in only 1 store. I won't touch them because the store buys that cheap junk from China then sells them at the same price as good batteries that are made here.
Don't your cheap batteries leak?

ok.what should i do ?! what about the project at all , tell me please!

For a start try using batteries that work!, if your batteries are no good how can the project possibly work?.
 
4electros said:
Nigel Goodwin said:
For a start try using batteries that work!, if your batteries are no good how can the project possibly work?.

ok.. Would you advise me to use particular kind of batteries rather than the batteries I used?!

It doesn't matter what make they are, as long as they are good batteries.

Personally I use Duracell Alkaline ones, but I wouldn't suggest using ANY zinc-carbon batteries, they are pretty useless, and very prone to corrosive leakage.
 
Look closely at the spelling on cheap batteries. Alkarine is really the old carbon-zinc, not alkaline. Many have a gold top like a Duracell.
Super Heavy Duty batteries are junk.

Did your dead battery have a built-in tester? The tester kills a new battery quickly. It is a guarantee that the manufacturer will sell more batteries!

Are batteries made in Syria any better than cheap Chinese batteries?
Does any company make batteries in Syria?
 
audioguru said:
Are batteries made in Syria any better than cheap Chinese batteries?
Does any company make batteries in Syria?

there's no companty that makes batteries in syris, but there're some inventors make large batteries for cars or something like that, and even those are very rare!
 
My friends, I bought new batteries one is called " super alkaline" and is made in Malysia and the other is made in japan which called "Panasonic alkaline"....

I measured its voltages while powering the circuit , although I bought it as 9v, the meter gave 10.05 or sometimes 10.09 volt, the other battery I measured is 10.42volts(approximately)

**broken link removed**

the output voltage of stage1 ( output of opamp connected to LDR) is swinging and not stable at any value each time i touch any component or any wire on my breadboard ..anyway it even reaches 10.20 which is near the battery voltage....

please help!! what would advise me at this case, should i work on Eagle and execute the circuit , ignoring the breadboard results?!

thanks in advance!
 
4electros said:
My friends, I bought new batteries one is called " super alkaline" and is made in Malysia and the other is made in japan which called "Panasonic alkaline"....

I measured its voltages while powering the circuit , although I bought it as 9v, the meter gave 10.05 or sometimes 10.09 volt, the other battery I measured is 10.42volts(approximately)

**broken link removed**

the output voltage of stage1 ( output of opamp connected to LDR) is swinging and not stable at any value each time i touch any component or any wire on my breadboard ..anyway it even reaches 10.20 which is near the battery voltage....

please help!! what would advise me at this case, should i work on Eagle and execute the circuit , ignoring the breadboard results?!

It sounds like you may have it connected incorrectly?, if it swings about when you touch it you might have an intermittent contact, or a free floating input?. I take it you've used sensible resistor values this time?, and what about the LDR?.
 
Horray! You got new batteries that work. :lol:

Your project's link doesn't work anymore, each schematic is just a small red "x" and their properties says "not available".
Please attach the schematic here.

Each part connected to pin 2 of each opamp must have very short wires or the opamp will amplify mains hum from the wires acting like antennas.
I think a wire length of only 1" is too long.
 
Nigel Goodwin said:
It sounds like you may have it connected incorrectly?, if it swings about when you touch it you might have an intermittent contact, or a free floating input?. I take it you've used sensible resistor values this time?, and what about the LDR?.


I think is the error is conulted from the board itself, sometimes op-amp didn't fix well to it but at last I could make it stable state and I always check the wiring to not being in a trouble.
For resistors I used the same resistors to the figure 7, except LDR , I used LDR that gets values greater than 10k(about25k or even 30 ...something like this) which is the maximum value in figure 7 , I didn't find any LDR which varies from 1k to 10k, what had I to do ?!



audioguru said:
Horray! You got new batteries that work. :lol:

Your project's link doesn't work anymore, each schematic is just a small red "x" and their properties says "not available".
Please attach the schematic here.

Each part connected to pin 2 of each opamp must have very short wires or the opamp will amplify mains hum from the wires acting like antennas.
I think a wire length of only 1" is too long.

I will attach the schematic as you said. What about the antennas wires, could you clarify more, if that's possible?! :)

BTW, i use Eagle 4.11 version ,can you view schematic of this version on your PCs?

thanks a lot!
 
4electros said:
For resistors I used the same resistors to the figure 7, except LDR , I used LDR that gets values greater than 10k(about25k or even 30 ...something like this) which is the maximum value in figure 7 , I didn't find any LDR which varies from 1k to 10k, what had I to do ?!

Neither have I?, you just need to alter it's series resistor and the feedback resistor to compensate.

I will attach the schematic as you said. What about the antennas wires, could you clarify more, if that's possible?! :)

BTW, i use Eagle 4.11 version ,can you view schematic of this version on your PCs?

Post it as a graphic, either GIF or PNG, then anyone can view it.
 
I was trying to eagle my circuit diagram ..I haven't found 741opamp in the library could you tell me how can i get it.. I will probably use any 8-pin IC instead of it...
another thing in figure 7

**broken link removed**

How could I add display, which items should i use to display the result digitally in reality and in eagle software( from library)?!

need your suggestion in those things and in general!

thanks in advise!
 
4electros said:
How could I add display, which items should i use to display the result digitally?!
The LED is already the circuit's digital display. It switches on when the room is dark and switches off when there's light. Actually, when the LED is off the circuit applies more than the max reverse voltage rating of the LED.
The circuit is designed to switch. It would need a redesign to have an output that changes with different amounts of light.
 
audioguru said:
4electros said:
How could I add display, which items should i use to display the result digitally?!
The LED is already the circuit's digital display. It switches on when the room is dark and switches off when there's light. Actually, when the LED is off the circuit applies more than the max reverse voltage rating of the LED.
The circuit is designed to switch. It would need a redesign to have an output that changes with different amounts of light.

My friend, may be you didn't read the explanation of the project very well...the result must be displayed and the block"display" in the diagram assures that..and the required elements list is added also at the bottom of the page which i've posted... but the display element is not present here in syria so i need another equivalent element ...but first I need to learn in general how to display voltage value digitally by means of display(may be 7segment display)..I might add ADC converter and then seven segment display , i don't know....

I 've posted that i have some small problems in eagle software I hope that you do understand my sensitive situaiton in making this .

hope you can help me ...anyway thanks !

best regards!
 
Yeah, I see that the project uses an ordinary digital multimeter as a display of the amount of light that causes the output voltage of the 2nd opamp to change.
You don't have cheap and ordinary digital multimeters in Syria? Why not?
 
anyway see these attachments!
I got it from a friend of mine.

your comment?
 

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audioguru said:
You don't have cheap and ordinary digital multimeters in Syria? Why not?

Our professor at university wants me to do it with display tool not with orfinary digital multimeters cause I make this project for measurement material( analog and digital measurements) , that's it!

I'm not pleased to do it in such way , but I must :shock:
 
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