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Dc Motor Question

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00Wizard00

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It has been years since school and I am a bit rusty (over 10 since my last electronics job and over 20 since school). I am trying to rebuild a motor circuit for stability and am trying to remember some of the parts to use.

Basically the circuit came default with 4 parts A switch, a fuse, the 110v-120v dc motor and a KBPC310 rectifier.

The problem is when the motor gets a small load it blows the fuse. (it came with a 1A fuse and I tried up to a 3A fuse and was going to heat sink the rectifier if it worked)

The question is what kind of circuit can I use to have the motor run when the button is depressed without a load blowing the fuse every time? I was looking int a current limiting circuit with an npn/pnp type circuit but am unsure if that is the best plan.

Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Walter
 
1A at 120V is about 120W or about 1/8HP. What is the motor rated for?
 
A horrible suggestion, but it should fill your needs:

A big (one Henry or more) inductor in series to the motor. It's a really easy way to make the current rise slowly.

But be aware that when you cut the power, then the inductor will try to maintain the current and that will make a voltage spike that could burn the contact spot on your switch. To avoid this, you can put a diode in parallell to the switch (normally non-conducting when switch is open) that will kill the voltage spike.
 
I don't think that an inductor would work unless it were huge. Even one Henry wouldn't be enough as with 100 V supply, the current will rise at 100 A per second, so it would get too big far too quickly for anyone to stop it in time.

Also if you have a diode, it shouldn't in parallel with the switch. It should be in parallel with the inductor.
 
Oh, forget that - I forgot it was all about a 100V rated motor.

What is the main voltage avaiable?
 
Thanks for all the replies here is a little more info on the motor and plug.

I am not sure about the motor all I can find on it is the white sticker that says Kingshengyongcizhiliudianji
ZYT-3416
DC 110v-120v.

And it plugs directly into the wall socket.

From the wall one leg goes to the rectifier and the other goes to the fuse, The fuse hooks to the other input from the rectifier and the output goes directly to the motor
 
Is it a single diode or a rectifier bridge with four terminals?
If it is a single diode, and it was blown, then the motor would be getting AC, not DC and that would likely blow the fuse.
 
It is a 4 post rectifier bridge. I would think if one diode was blown in the rectifier then it would blow the fuse as soon as the switch was pushed. But I coulde be wrong. Do you think 1 of the 4 diodes smoked in the rectifier?
 
It is a 4 post rectifier bridge. I would think if one diode was blown in the rectifier then it would blow the fuse as soon as the switch was pushed. But I coulde be wrong. Do you think 1 of the 4 diodes smoked in the rectifier?

Yes, that would blow the fuse. Do you have an Ohmmeter?
 
Isolate the bridge (remove the fuse) and temporarily disconnect one motor lead. Now measure forward and reverse across each of four arms of the bridge (eight measurements). You might have a ->| (diode) mode on your Ohmmeter.
 
Then we are back to the motor rating, and the motor load? Does the armature of the motor spin free with no power applied? Frozen bearing? What is the load?
 
Spins freely and it works great but if something bogs the motor down even just a little the fuse is toast. But it normally will run smooth.
 
Do you have a Variac? Try running the motor on varying AC voltages.

Another Idea: put a candleabra socket base in series with the motor, and then screw in a 25W lamp, then a 50W lamp, then a 75W, then a 100W.
 
Basically the circuit came default with 4 parts A switch, a fuse, the 110v-120v dc motor and a KBPC310 rectifier.
Where did you get this?
 
The circuit came in a cigarette maker my wife bought. It worked great for about a month. Now that I have the shell I figured even if I had to rebuild the whole inside it would be worth it. (you know a happy wife = a happy husband) The roller worked 10X faster than the manual ones so to her it was worth it. But like all other items like this it was made by the lowest bidder with all the cheapest parts.

How it works is on the end of the motor is a corkscrew in a pipe. The tobacco is fed into the pipe and thru the pipe using the corkscrew and into the tube at the end of the pipe. Now that I have the shell all I need it a circuit to run the motor constant when the button is depressed to keep the corkscrew turning. I do not need speed it just needs torque basically.

I hope this helps. Even if there is a different motor I should get I am willing to get it. Now that I have the shell I am looking to build it for reliability instead of cheap.

Thanks
Walter
 
A turbo fag maker..
Seriously though think about looking for an old battery drill, maybe one with a dead battery, you get motor, gearbox and speed control.
 
Since it worked for a few weeks, it sounds like the motor has developed an internal short between windings.
 
Well I just pulled the motor apart and I think you are correct one winding is solid black. Ugh. Any ideas where I can get a decent motor that will not break the bank? I looked around locally and was told it is an OEM motor made specifically for the manufacturer. And being 2 units did the exact same thing I think it is cheap construction. I asked how much for a new like motor would be and they refused to answer they said it could be $1k or as low as $50 or so. Wow thatnks for the help lady lol. I know I would need to re-mount it and such but any ideas other than scrapping it out.

I am going to look into the drill thing but I am not sure I have an old one lying around or not.

Edit. Oh and Dr Pepper I hate cigarettes personally and keey trying to get her to quit but no luck so far so anything to make her life easier makes my life easier ;)
 
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