Best PIC Progammer for the PIC18Fxxxx series

[mvs sarma]

........

The only thing that is "chicken and egg" is you have to write the code on the 18F2525 with something. Anything will do. JDM or whatever. Once it is written, you are good to go

This is a critical part. I have managed with help from Bill and from another friend who has a PICKIT2 from microchip. Any mistake or overconfidence will destroy the F2525 or F2550. I really burnt one. I am not discouraging but can't see or hear of another such damage, and let any member learn from my experience.

While it is not difficult with a workable JDM ( like the ones which are externally powered), one MUST exercise Caution while programming main chip.

Finally I have a Nicely working JUNEBUG and happy about it-- rather thankfully proud.

 

[blueroomelectronics]

I don't know about the BS250P but the BS250 is obsolete and not recommended for new designs.
**broken link removed**

Lucky for me I put the pinning on the PCB for the BS250K, slightly higher current capacity too.

 

[Eplanet]

pic programming help

hello friends
first see this attachment
i want to program pic16f84 for showing 1byte (8bits) data over LEDs.i making this project but not work and i doubt to pic program. this is sample program.
include "modedefs.bas"
pinin var PORTA.1
B0 var byte

POKE TRISB,0
POKE TRISA,31
POKE PORTB,0

loop:
SERIN pinin,T2400,B0
POKE PORTB,B0
GOTO Loop

please suggest a program or debug for this issue.
thanks

 

[cucamunga]

so, resuming all this... if i build the PK2SE Programmer/Debugger i should be able to program all PIC18F series??... or only the 18F2550 ??.


what should i build for program all (the most) of the 18Fxxxx series??

 

[blueroomelectronics]

You can program almost every 5V Flash based PIC with the Junebug.
Every time Microchip updates MPLAB or PICkit2 2.40 they often add even more PICs!
**broken link removed**

 

[ESchemainda]

PIC Programmer proposal

Hello,
forget all this. Buy the PICKit 2 from Microchip. It's cheap, I think about $50. It comes with software and you can program all flash PICs. I did not count them, more than 100 types, take a look to Microchips Homepage for PICKit 2. It will be shipped in 2 - 3 days. I use it for PIC18F2550/4455/4550 and also for the old 16F84A.
With best regards
Erhard

 

[futz]

Buy the PICKit 2 from Microchip. It's cheap... It comes with software and you can program all flash PICs.

Totally agree. That's the answer. Both the genuine PICkit2 and the Junebug PICkit2 clone are excellent and inexpensive programmers. You won't go wrong with either one.

 

[Wingmax]

Hello,
forget all this. Buy the PICKit 2 from Microchip. It's cheap, I think about $50. It comes with software and you can program all flash PICs. I did not count them, more than 100 types, take a look to Microchips Homepage for PICKit 2. It will be shipped in 2 - 3 days. I use it for PIC18F2550/4455/4550 and also for the old 16F84A.
With best regards
Erhard

Be careful. Last time I suggested this, I was under attack.

 

[ESchemainda]

Oh ... yes, I believe. Some people won't perceive the reality.

 

[Bobcan]

Be careful. Last time I suggested this, I was under attack.

Are u serious? why? I have pitkit2 myself, works beautifully. It's cheap, save me time building one, and it's made by microchip, so it's got to work.

 

[Pommie]

Are u serious? why? I have pitkit2 myself, works beautifully. It's cheap, save me time building one, and it's made by microchip, so it's got to work.

Have a read of this thread.

Mike.

 

[cucamunga]

$50 is not cheap for me... and build it cost...what?.. a 10 dollars???

 

[blueroomelectronics]

Be careful. Last time I suggested this, I was under attack.

Nobody attacked you, it's called a debate or opinion.

The PICkit2 is a terrific programmer, I've got one myself. The OP wants something for $10 which is less than the retail price of some PICs. The cheapest possible PIC programmer would be a LVP cable like the one on Lothar Stolz site. **broken link removed**
**broken link removed**

I built the Junebug as a response to students who were interested in the Inchworm and had no idea what their first project would be.

 

[futz]

$50 is not cheap for me... and build it cost...what?.. a 10 dollars???

Less than $40 here in Canada.

Even comes with USB cable, but no programming cable. You can buy one from here or other places, or build your own.

 

[mvs sarma]

$50 is not cheap for me... and build it cost...what?.. a 10 dollars???

Did you see the cost of the "Bill of material" for a PICKIT2. I fear the mainchip PIC18F2550 will itself cost $9+

Why not put a serious thought to clean up the programmer you have already assembled and bring it back to working condition? it should work for you. There are many people using it. After an year later, may be perhaps you will go for PICKIT2 or a later version, by then. Aiming for ultimate at a stage when we are at an early stage of learning the PIC controllers may not be appropriate. As you gain experience, you can always switch to better ones.

try considering my approach.

 

[cucamunga]

one question, i believe that you need 13V at the ~MCLR to change the PIC at program mode... the programmer have a DC-to-DC converter?...
plus, all the things in the programmer are necessary?.. like the busy LED at the RC0 pin?.

what are the basics things to build???.. sorry but i still can't figure it out.

i wanna build some programmer just to program/debug a PIC(18Fxxxx) hopefully USB... in the PK2SE i see a lot of components that are connected at pins of the PIC that i think that are not necessary to program it... i don't know which are the basics pins just to program it.

i need to program the pic in one part and use in other... two separated boards.

sorry for still bothering...

 

[mvs sarma]

You should not confuse the on board PIC18f2550 of PICKIT2SE ( may I call it JUNEBUG from Blureroomelectronics if you are discussing about the same), as the PIC18Fxxxthat you want to to program. this chip is part of programmer and it helps you do your programmer. It will manage the inter-connectivity of the PC to the programmer,use the 5V from the USB socket, if it is found suitabel, derive the Vpp (the so called 13V DC for the MCLR pin, manage the Vpp before Vdd facility specially needed for some chips, by use of the BS250 and 2N7000 FETs, etc, etc.,
The actual chip you want to program is expected to be connected on some pins on the connector found at the top of the PIC18F2550(18F2525) So please study the Junebug manual for a better appreciation of the design. It is a clone of Microchip's PICKIT2 except that this has no facility for reducing the Vdd to lower levels like 3.3V used for some PICs.

I suggest that you might thoroughly study the the PICKIT2 user manual by downloading one from Microchip. All said, whether PICKIT2 or Schear+, you need 13V. PICKIT2 produces internally.
Cucamunga, I don't understand one thing, what is your actual problem in reproducing the Schear+. and supply 16 to 18V Dc input at JP1. There are some printing mistakes on that schematic. For example, the out put of 7812 IC is shown as 12V. But it is 13.4V because of the two diodes in the common lead of 7812. If you are not an electronics person, you are definitely likely to be confuse you. The socket "JP1"is not a jumper but it is a 2 pin connector which will accept 16Vto 18V DC and from that the 13.5 will be derived by 7812 and the 2 diodes(1N4148).

 

[cucamunga]

Cucamunga, I don't understand one thing, what is your actual problem in reproducing the Schear+. and supply 16 to 18V Dc input at JP1. There are some printing mistakes on that schematic. For example, the out put of 7812 IC is shown as 12V. But it is 13.4V because of the two diodes in the common lead of 7812. If you are not an electronics person, you are definitely likely to be confuse you. The socket "JP1"is not a jumper but it is a 2 pin connector which will accept 16Vto 18V DC and from that the 13.5 will be derived by 7812 and the 2 diodes(1N4148).

i'm studying electronic civil engineer, but they don't teach me the part of "making" your own programmer, so i am learning it be my own.
The problem that i have with the SCHAER+ programmer is that when is connect both diodes at the 7812, the output is 12,8V and a weird thing happens,... the output of the 7805 is 6,4 V (no idea why !!).
And when i build it (the last time) i couldn't erase the PIC (only program a new erased PIC). The voltage at that moment was 12,7... is that enough for erase a PIC??...

 

[mvs sarma]

i'm studying electronic civil engineer, but they don't teach me the part of "making" your own programmer, so i am learning it be my own.
The problem that i have with the SCHAER+ programmer is that when is connect both diodes at the 7812, the output is 12,8V and a weird thing happens,... the output of the 7805 is 6,4 V (no idea why !!).
And when i build it (the last time) i couldn't erase the PIC (only program a new erased PIC). The voltage at that moment was 12,7... is that enough for erase a PIC??...

I didn't quite get this term"electronic civil engineer". How ever, if you see the datasheets of the Positive voltage regulator ICslike 78xx, you appreciate that in case of 7805 the input minimum should be above 7.5 to 8V, for the regulator not to have problems of load regulations while delivering the load.
Similarly 14.5 minimum input in case of 7812.In our case we have modified the regulator by connecting 2 diodes at the common point to ground. so the input should also be lifted by 1.4V (=2* Vf) (Vf=forward drop of diode).
So we need 14.5+1.4=16V almost. You recollect Nigel was suggesting you earlier.
In light of these info, please check your programmer carefully for dry joints and other mistakes like -- it may be possible that you have connected the two diodes to the 7085 instead of 7812. as per you you are getting 6.5 instead of 5V at the Vcc point. please check. By the way (BTW) have you a pcb or you have wired on general purpose board? whether 7812 and 7805 are placed at the correct locations as per the schematic? Please check. the diagram is not that bad that it can't work. In case you don't have 16V Dc , try connecting two nos of 9V batteries in series as suggested earlier and supply 18V so derived, as input at JP1 taking care of polarity.

 

[cucamunga]

I didn't quite get this term"electronic civil engineer".

sorry, Electronic Civil Engineering --- i don't know the international name of my career...maybe you can omit the civil in between.

i first built it on a permanent board... but i omit the diodes (worked only for program but not for erase...can someone explain that to me ??!!)... and know i build it on a project board.
i checked all connections, all OK... the voltage at the output of the 7805 is 6,3.
no idea why... i tried a lot... and all the same thing...