Attempt at PCB etching.

[StopGo]

I tried again this time with some Epson 720dpi inkjet paper. This is not glossy but it does have a very smooth finish.

This time there was less of a problem, after ironing small air bubbles appeared in between the paper and copper. The bubbles were where there were no tracks. Once wetted, the bubbles seemed to expand. I was worried the trapped bubbles would lift the toner tracks. This paper seemed to peel off rather than rub off. My first couple of transfers did have missing tracks, due in part to experimenting with cooler iron temperatures.

My last attemp has been the best so far.. shame about my lack of drilling skills

**broken link removed**

 

[Dr.EM]

Looks neat. I am possibly going to try a simple PCB. It would just be for a power supply (2 fuseholders, 2 caps, bridge rectifier and connectors). I think I would draw it by hand if I did, it would be thick traces anyhow. Just the lead spacing, the drilling would need to be quite accurate so the parts fitted well.

 

[Overclocked]

Do you use a drill press to drill holes? Ive also found that this small drill bit set made by dremel has the right size for components (it has 5 or so drill bits smallest size being 1/32).

 

[mramos1]

Do you use a drill press to drill holes? Ive also found that this small drill bit set made by dremel has the right size for components (it has 5 or so drill bits smallest size being 1/32).

I use an old dremel press and carbide bits. Electronics Goldmine on the web, I bought for like $.90 (90 cents) a small pack of them as well. But you have a minimum order with them.

 

[jbeng]

... shame about my lack of drilling skills.

I use the photo method to get the results I want ... but here's how I get my pads drilled to center. On the layout, I make the holes 0.015 inches diameter. Now, of course, I don't drill them out to that, because it's far too small for component leads. The small hole in the copper pad acts like a guide (like a center punch mark) and doesn't allow the drill bit to "walk" around too much like a large hole will. It does a good job of keeping the holes on center. When I drill for standard resistor leads, IC pins, transistor legs, etc., I use a #70 carbide bit which is 0.028 inch diameter. I usually drill all the holes on the board that size, then enlarge the ones which need it for larger pin sizes. Of course, use a Dremel (or equivalent) in a drill press to do all this, else you'll break the bit in a heartbeat.
JB

 

[mramos1]

I went back to Circuit City to get more Kodak soft gloss picture paper. Turns out it was on sale, not clearance and the sale was over. It is like $25 for 75 sheets. And $9 for 25 sheets. I passed, but I saw Lexmark photo paper (did not say picture it said photo). $12.99 for 50 sheets and buy one get one free.

UPDATE: You have to let Lexmark soak a little longer and the paper slid right off with almost no film. I will try it again, looks like it may work well also. Looks like any matte/low gloss paper will do.

So if you want to use the paper method of PCB making, Kodak soft gloss picture paper works better that Staples picture paper. And both sides of Kodak are coated. Did not seem to hurt the iron either.

Lexmark might be OK.. I think I over heated it as well, the toner had bubbles in it on the copper..

 

[StopGo]

Thanks for the drilling advice
I am using a dremel with a flexible drive attachment. The 0.8mm drill is the most used, followed by 1.2mm and 1.6mm. I'm not getting bad results by eye, but I will try setting the hole diameter small.

 

[Hero999]

It's a shame the magazine paper didn't work for you, obviously your printer doesn't like it.

 

[mramos1]

Oh I will try it again. And use a good magazine next time. The paper was thin on the one I used..

But now I have 100 sheets for $12.99, hehehe. Might be awhile.

 

[HarveyH42]

Forum spam...

Anyway, never tried the magazine paper, but was wondering if you changed the print driver's paper type? I had some trouble doing some business cards, until I remembered...

Comment on deleted spam removed by moderator.

 

[mramos1]

Anyway, never tried the magazine paper, but was wondering if you changed the print driver's paper type? I had some trouble doing some business cards, until I remembered...

I had what I normally use, 600DPI and normal. It is a laser, so there is not much to set.

 

[HarveyH42]

I had what I normally use, 600DPI and normal. It is a laser, so there is not much to set.

There are drive settings for different thickness/types paper. I have a Laserjet 1020... let me pull up the driver.

Okay, the attached is the pull-down for paper types for my printer. Don't really know the difference most. I do know that cadstock doesn't feed when plain is selected...

 

[StopGo]

I found some extra features hidden on an 'Advanced' options page of my Samsung ML-1520. One of them was a toggle between 'Normal' and 'Dark', it seems to make it lay down more toner

Will see what the result are soon.. still homing in on a repeatable process with understandable reasons why it might of gone wrong.

So far I treat the whole board with the same loving care and attention, yet one bit of toner decides to unstick, while the rest is glued to the copper solidly.

 

[mramos1]

I found some extra features hidden on an 'Advanced' options page of my Samsung ML-1520. One of them was a toggle between 'Normal' and 'Dark', it seems to make it lay down more toner

Will see what the result are soon.. still homing in on a repeatable process with understandable reasons why it might of gone wrong.

So far I treat the whole board with the same loving care and attention, yet one bit of toner decides to unstick, while the rest is glued to the copper solidly.

It is all about the heat. The Lexmark paper, I did heat up a lot.. The toner always sticks to the copper for me, it is the paper coating that is a pain to get off.. Kodak was the best so far. Lexmark I will test again, with less heat.

 

[Rolf]

Questions...........

Use eagle PCB instead. Actually, if you used the Laser Jet Toner Method, you dont need to mirror it. When you apply it, it gets mirroed anyway.

Thats something I noticed, Sometimes the text comes out sometimes it doesnt.

For me, the toner comes off easy! Acetone baby! Whats sucks is when some of the paper gets stuck on the PCB, Then its a ***** to get off. I use Staples photo paper.

Not bad though. it looks like some of your tracks were penciled in.

I like the PCB123 for my layout, it was the simplest to learn of the few I tried.
It has however no flexebility when it comes sending the artwotk to the printer (it printes in the center of the page) and some ingenuety has to be used to get aroun this problem. Espesaly since I am using Press-n-Peel at about $1.00 per sheet.
I read some time ago about someone using Muriatic Acid (about $5.00 gal. at the hardware store) for the etching solution. But I cant find the link. Tried to use it full strength and it floated the Press-n-Peel traces right off after a few minutes. Anyone remember seeing this or the thead?

 

[Rolf]

Questions...........

Sorry duplicate post.........