Adding a ring light to a 1981 Draper Tools PD-16 'Drilling Machine' 1981 Mascot Tools (Floor Standing Pillar Drill)

[TheJay]

Hey everyone, I have a very old pillar drill press from 1981 (Draper). It has a green on and red off button on the side. I wondered how I can take power from the drill press when the green/black button is pressed and turn it off when the red button is pressed?

Even better, how could I connect a three way switch so that I can turn it on and off manually, as well as having a position for automatic.

 

[shortbus=]

I tried a similar thing on my Bridgeport mill. and quickly abandoning it after making it. I thought it would make things better illuminated when setting things up with just a layout line, but it didn't workout. I then made two led lights on adjustable arms that do work like I wanted.

The ring light still had a "dark spot" from the spindle and quill, and the dark spot was right where you need illumination.

 

[TheJay]

In that case, I'd like to add a ring light and two led lights on adjustable arms. Is there a way to add them with the same functionality as I described?

 

[JimB]

I have "Angel Eyes" ring lights on my bench drill and milling machine.

I agree with what Shortbus= is saying about dark spots, see below:

However, my lights are not fixed to the head of the machine and can be moved around on flexible stalks to give optimum illumination for a given situation:

My milling machine has two spindles, and the light can be moved from one spindle to the other as required:

Similarly on the drill, the ring light is mounted on a flexible stalk and so can be moved for optimum illumination:

The stalks came from Ebay and were sold for applying coolant to parts being machined.

JimB

 

[TheJay]

That is very cool. I like it, you were able to feed the wires through the stalks?

I think one stalk for an LED light to be directed from the side and a stalk mounted ring light would be the best combination.

So how do I go about taking power from the drill and it functioning as previously described?

 

[JimB]

That is very cool. I like it, you were able to feed the wires through the stalks?

Yes, I don't remember any problems, it was a number of years ago when I did this.

So how do I go about taking power from the drill and it functioning as previously described?

On the drill, I simply have a toggle switch which manually switches the power to the PSU for the ring light.
Having said that, I don't think that I have ever operated that switch.
When I am not using the drill, I just turn the power off at the wall.

As for the milling machine, it is CNC controlled, so if I am using it the whole lot (Computer, motor drivers and light) are switched on at the wall, or they are switched off and I am way from there.

JimB

 

[ChrisP58]

It sounds like you want the light to go on and off with the spindle motor.

I wouldn't do it that way. I think I'd often want the light on before the motor for setup and clamping the work piece. So it'd need a separate switch.

 

[TheJay]

I want a three way switch. One for power without spindle, one for turning off power always and another for power on/off with spindle.

 

[TheJay]

Does anyone know how this is achieved?

 

[alec_t]

Use a suitably rated SP3T (ON-OFF-ON) switch, wired as PermanentLive-Light-SwitchedMotorLive

 

[TheJay]

Thanks Alec, on a practical level, how is that done?

JimB, how is the stalk connected to the ring light?

 

[JimB]

@JimB, how is the stalk connected to the ring light?

The ring light is mounted on a ring of 2mm thick aluminium.
This aluminium ring has a tang protruding outwards, under the blue heatshrink sleeve in this picture.

Mounted onto the tang is a block of metal (the square bump under the heatshrink sleeve).

In this picture we can see the outline of the screw heads which hold the block to the tang, under the heatshrink.

A hole is bored through the square block, the orange nozzle is a snug fit into that hole.
The nozzle is secured in the hole by epoxy adhesive.
From bad memory I remember that the screws securing the block to the ring also grip the nozzle.

The ring lights which I bought had an LED driver module housed in a small plastic cylinder. That cylinder is also held in place by the heatshrink.

OK?


Jay, as you are wiring up your switch, bare in mind that the ring lights run from a 12v DC power supply, the motor in your drill runs from 240v AC supply.
You will need a 240 to 12 supply to power the light.



JimB

 

[TheJay]

Thanks Jim, where did you source the aluminium ring with a tang?

 

[JimB]

Thanks Jim, where did you source the aluminium ring with a tang?

I made it from a sheet of aluminium, using a cnc milling machine.

There is no reason why it could not be made using hand tools, apart from the effort required.

JimB

 

[TheJay]

I need to revisit this.

Am I going to need an LED driver (2V 24V AC DC Adapter Charger Power Supply Driver Transformer for LED strip 240v) or AC to DC Power Converter Module 12V 1A Switching Power Supply Board AC 100-240V?

Would anyone with a CNC milling machine be able to help make an aluminium ring with a tang?

Also, what would be a suitable product to order? Use a suitably rated SP3T (ON-OFF-ON) switch, wired as PermanentLive-Light-SwitchedMotorLive

 

[rjenkinsgb]

There are numerous variations of ring lights, which are commonly used with microscopes - are any of those usable or adaptable?

Some examples:

35000LM Adjustable Microscope Ring LED Light Illuminator Lamp for Stereo Zoom | eBay

Flux: 35000LM. Type: Special Microscope LED Ring. The brightness can be adjusted, and the illumination is uniform and shadowless. High brightness, long life, less heat, low temperature, soft light and natural, no stroboscopic.

www.ebay.co.uk

Mechanic LED Ring Light For Microscope UK Stock | eBay

Adopt nanotechnology: new FRO separation technology. 1 x Diamond Cutting Silk.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[TheJay]

Thanks for your reply. I found the ring lights that I bought for this project, it's 12v. I presume the little board is a voltage regulator? That's what I would need to fit to the aluminium ring with a tang right? How is that then attached to the flexible neck piece?

 

[TheJay]

I've taken photos of the side of the machine, there is quite a lot there.

I'm not sure what each thing is or how I can tidy it up/make it take up less space. I want to change the start/stop to a more modern version an move it to the front of the machine so it's easier to see and use.

There isn't any free space behind the front of the casting as the quill is right there. There is space to the left and right for a cable though.

Wiring for motor:

Original on and off buttons:

A large box containing various hardware:

New switch:

 

[TheJay]

Perhaps someone can explain how the various components work and whether they have got smaller sicnce 1980s and what could be used instead that's more compact.

 

[TheJay]

I made it from a sheet of aluminium, using a cnc milling machine.

There is no reason why it could not be made using hand tools, apart from the effort required.

JimB

This one is 11.5cm ID 12.3cm. The tang would need to be the same dimensions as the one you made. Would you mind helping me with this? Thanks.