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You cannot get more power out from a generator than you feed into it :wink: . The 2.5Hp is good for at best 1.6Kw and the 5Hp for 3.2Kw of output from the genny, assuming its reasonable efficient.
To get the full 10KVA output you need about 15Hp of motor power to drive it.
Then you need some pulley set up to get the genny turn at the desired RPM as well as the motor in its optimal torque/ power RPM setting. Then, unless your load is very constant, you need some feedback to keep this RPM steady as the load changes, else your output frequency changes. (a bigger load on the genny will try to slow the motor down, and vice versa, so some automatic means of throttle adjustment is required) As I said before, its getting complicated at this stage.
On your pictures the armature was not clearly seen, I assume it has two slip rings somewhere to feed the winding within and the diode somehow provides the DC voltage for that. I'm not sure if there is a permanent magnetic field also to start the process or some external exitation voltage has to be connected - I'm not too familiar with the terminal post designations either.
Wish you lost of fun with that one
8)
You cannot get more power out from a generator than you feed into it :wink: . The 2.5Hp is good for at best 1.6Kw and the 5Hp for 3.2Kw of output from the genny, assuming its reasonable efficient.
To get the full 10KVA output you need about 15Hp of motor power to drive it.
Then you need some pulley set up to get the genny turn at the desired RPM as well as the motor in its optimal torque/ power RPM setting. Then, unless your load is very constant, you need some feedback to keep this RPM steady as the load changes, else your output frequency changes. (a bigger load on the genny will try to slow the motor down, and vice versa, so some automatic means of throttle adjustment is required) As I said before, its getting complicated at this stage.
On your pictures the armature was not clearly seen, I assume it has two slip rings somewhere to feed the winding within and the diode somehow provides the DC voltage for that. I'm not sure if there is a permanent magnetic field also to start the process or some external exitation voltage has to be connected - I'm not too familiar with the terminal post designations either.
Wish you lost of fun with that one
8)
so far i have looked over the small winding and have determend that the 3 wires marked as 1,2,3 wire 1 goesto a plug mounted outside the gen along with 2, and 3 the two wires on the large winding the one tied in a knot goes to the e wich i think is the emiter the other wire goes to the d wich is the diode the small winding looks to me like a tac now on the large drum inside all trh windings on the inside of the drum have diodes and there are no brushes
now i have the gen back together and the fan that goes into the small winding is a magnet when i spin the gen at 500 rpm on the benh the main post on the outside show a reading of 50 millivolts
now im confused the gen was hooked up to a lawnmower eng for more testing it spun the gen at around 3600 rpm there is no output on the 6 post did i do somethig wrong as far as i can see everthinbg is hooked up right any body got ideas ???????
did you check for continuity of the field winding ?
You should expect a small AC voltage at the input to the diodes.
Sometimes generators will lose the 'residual magnetism' which
they rely upon to begin to operate.
I have one myself that i have to 'help' from time to time.
I have a small bicycle dynamo, and diode that i can couple to
the field. The diode is to prevent back current when the genny
kicks in, as it will then drive the field itself. I just spin the little
dynamo by hand, and that starts the field ok.
If it hasn't been used for a while, it may well need to be
encouraged to operate. Don't just put a battery straight across
the field, find out which side is plus first, and use a diode cos
when it kicks in it may try to shove current back to your battery.
Usually a small dry cell or two will do.
This is not the same thing as 'Flashing' used on car dynamos.
If you connect across two phases, you will get most of the
available power from the generator.
Also you may be able to separately drive the field winding
so as to give you a higher output voltage.
Once you have the unit running, check the field volts,
you may find that a small increase in the field current
is all thats needed, to give you 110/115 volts across two
legs (phases)
3600 rpm is a lot slower than the 8000 it was made for,
i doubt that you would get the lawn-mower engine to work
very well at 1000 rpm, but its worth a try i suppose.
You never know, maybe you could force 500 watts out of
it at 1000 rpm !!
here is the number eaton,new jersey mfr code ident no.83298 mfr part no. 28b139-53-a seril no. 781 r.p.m. 8000 p.f. .75 k.v.a. 10 freq 400 phase 3 gd/fw spec.no. ze00022 volts 115/200 max weight 31.7 lbs sunstrand dwg no. 54075 cont./order no. n0038382g2911sm92 stock no. 6115-00-989-679uh thats all the info thats on the tag i hope that it helps to get more info as i tryied serching the web but came up dry
well im still confused why i cant get this thing to give me any output power a friend came over with his jeep that has a pto and we hooked the genny up to the thing and spun it but the output was not there what am i doing wrong?
sorry for not getting back to this my computer crashed and i just finnished rebuilding my drive well on my challange to get the ac genny to give me some power i have got some rectefiers wich gives me a dc output now if im right if i then go and hook up some diodes i should be able to have an ac output from the dc output i just hope i dont still have a 400 hertz but when im done building the circut ill test it
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