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120v AC to 120DC @20amps

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On the road again

OK I get it.
So here is the deal. It's all about power, not voltage. So power = current X voltage. So you have the same power with 120 volts X 20 amps as with 12 volts X 200 amps. So if you are going to use these in a car or big truck use the voltage that is available to you because to convert it to a differnt voltage has losses. So here is the scam. 12 volts / 1.35 volts/plate = 8 plates. If you want the box bigger put them in parallel, say 3 sets of 8 each for 24 in a box. Now you haven't said how many amps per plate (probably because you haven't built one yet) but I would guess it depends on the surface area of the plates and the spacing. For the sake of discussion lets use your initial 120 volts at 20 amps for 63 plates in series (21 x 3) or 38 watts per plate. So your new box with 3 sets of 8 in parallel would need 912 watts or 76 amps from a 12 volt battery. Get a heavy duty alternator and your in business! Now to control it use a PWM. We can easily build one for 100 amps that looses less than 10 watts. Figure out a way to control the pwm with engine rpm so you only make as much gas as you need and your on the road!
 
A half wave rectifier does not give a half the volts but rather the same voltage as the full wave rectifier but at roughly a 50% duty cycle. You will still get the same 170 peaks as the full wave bridge does only every other one.

1993 Ford 4.0 V6. I drive Fords and am familiar with that engine and its related family members. You can also get a substantial mileage gain just by advancing the ignition another 5 degrees and putting a signal converter on the O2 senors to tweak the signal so that the engine reads the exhaust as slightly lean and causes the computer to run it slightly rich. 12.9:1 AF ratio is the peak power and efficiency ratio but the 14.7:1 they have the emissions set for is the cleaner stoichiometric ratio.

Its theoretically cleaner but unfortunately its not the right ratio for combustion efficiency that relates to power and fuel economy.

Also rerouting the EGR breather tube from the exhaust to the intake just after the air filter and gutting the catalytic converters will do a fair boost in fuel mileage as well. I cant say that it would double the fuel mileage but it will substantially increase over the full range of normal driving without needing any additional HHO system stuff.

I also work with alternative fuels as a hobby and I also have a good background in applied engine building that relates to what different fuels need for peak performance and efficiency. I know what the HHO scam stuff does And I know how to produce the same results without the HHO. ;)

Oh and a mix of 80% used oil and 20% E85 works just like diesel fuel in diesel engines. :)
Add extra E85 for thick oils or winter driving applications. Its a common Bio Diesel trick but without the bio part! Obviously filter it well before putting it in the tank! 10 micron is a good filter size. ;)
 
I hate it when I do that. Actually the input is 120v rms or 170v peak to peak. So in both cases 85 volts peak (I think). The differnce being the half wave has half the power of the full wave (like a pwm at 50% duty cycle). ^^^^ full wave ^-^- half wave. Did I get it right?
 
Thank you everyone for the info, I have got enough info to work with, I have a full bridge rectifier on order as well as a Capacitor to experiment with, need to get a half bridge rectifier now, I have Hyd Fuel cells that are 9 cell, 11 cell, 21 cells and soon a 36 cell unit, and will hook these up in series as needed for the correct given voltage, I have worked with HHO for over 5 years, and it works great, I love it :) I want to see if i can generate larger volumes of HHO gas for diesel Truck Applications, no I wont need 200 Amps to do that :) Take care and have fun, Chellie

here are some sites that may help people to understand HHO better

The International HHO Institute | The International HHO Institute | Hho, Ihhoi, Membership, Industry, Corporate

Fleet Program for HHO Hydrogen Generator
these people put their money where their mouth is, look at their guarantee, its nice to see someone out their trying to clean up the air that we all breath
 
heat sink

don't forget to bolt the rectifiers to a heatsink or metal plate.
 
I hope I'm not too late in the game for this thread, but just a tip from someone with plateing knowledge, not sure it's been covered here as I haven't the time right now to read all the previous posts, but what is your plate structure? You should avoid flat plates at just about any cost as to get the most reaction you'll want increased surface area of your anodes. You can probably get 100-200% or more output out of an existing generator if you increase the surface area of the plates by corrugating them or using plate grids instead of flat plates elements. The same goes for the cathode.
 
I hope I'm not too late in the game for this thread, but just a tip from someone with plateing knowledge, not sure it's been covered here as I haven't the time right now to read all the previous posts, but what is your plate structure? You should avoid flat plates at just about any cost as to get the most reaction you'll want increased surface area of your anodes. You can probably get 100-200% or more output out of an existing generator if you increase the surface area of the plates by corrugating them or using plate grids instead of flat plates elements. The same goes for the cathode.

Thank you for the information :) I buy the Hydrogen generators pre made now, its not cost effective for me to make them, the material used is stainless steel plates, then the MFG sands a cross hatch pattern on the plates for a rough surface. Thanks Again, Chellie
 
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