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Samsung Plasma x-sus board repair

Discussion in 'Repairing Electronics' started by Peter245149, Oct 1, 2017.

  1. Peter245149

    Peter245149 New Member

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    Hi everyone complete beginner here and may have tried biting of more than i can chew but i hate the society idea of a throw away and replace culture and have always tried fixing things when they break before just throwing in the towel and spending more money than is needed on more consumer products. When i say beginner i might be under selling myself, I have in the past been able to change tablet digitizers, iphone screens and most recently a henry the hoover carbon brushes in the motor.

    My problem is my 50" samsung plasma tv its more than a few years old now but it has served well and am reluctant to replace it so easily without looking into fixing at home. I know there are professionals out there who earn a living fixing these items but i like the idea of being about to learn new things and repair myself..........so

    The tv has the typical not powering on but clicking constantly which is most commonly (google search) associated with capacitor problems on the power board. After following some recurring advice from different sources i have (hopefully) 100% diagnosed that the problem lies on the x-sus board >>(pictured below

    [​IMG]

    From what i can tell the capacitors in question are most likely in the bottom right of the picture 4x 250v 150uf , 1x 160v 150uf, 1x 25v 330uf.
    Now none of these capacitors have popped at the top that is even remotely visible and neither is there any blown or discharge from below them, no burn or chard marks around on near them or anywhere on the board ......

    so simply after all my long winded dribbling explanation my simple question is where do i head next ??.......

    i would like to solve the problem at the component level if possible and would be capable of soldering the new capacitors in.....

    But have also found a replacement board on ebay at approx £40 although the seller will except offers on this price .....

    its about 2 things personally achieving the fix on my own (with forum help) and keeping costs as low as possible .....

    I do own a multimeter but have very limited knowledge using it and it does not seem to have the function or properly checking the state of each capacitor ..

    Please any electronic Jedi's out there can help i would be very grateful ( but not enough to actually pay you ..... lol )
     
  2. ci139

    ci139 Active Member

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  3. Mark G. Cooper Sr.

    Mark G. Cooper Sr. New Member

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    I'd just like to note that although there is no physical evidence of capacitor failure, electrolytic capacitors can 'look' perfectly good and still be bad.. I'd recommend removing them from the board and doing a quick check with an analog multimeter to give you an idea of their health, or lack thereof.. If you aren't familiar with this process, here is how to proceed: Using an ANALOG multimeter, for starters, set the meter to the 'X10' resistance measurement range and place the meter leads on opposing leads of the capacitor to be tested while carefully watching the multimeter. What you should be looking for is a quick deflection of the meter indicating that the capacfitor is being charged from the meter's internal battery through it's test leads. You should see a quick meter deflection. Then reverse the meter leads on the capacitor under test and note the movement of the meter pointer. It should not deflect as much one way as the other. This is just a quick test to let you know if the capacitor is open or shorted basically. If you know someone who may have a capacitor tester, the use of one would be the preferred test method for any suspect capacitor. I hope this provides you some helpful direction. Good luck ! Please do let me know if I can be of any further assistance. If you find a questionable capacitor, I recommend replacing it with one of the same value if possible, if not you may replace it with one rated at a higher working voltage safely. Most often, you may even deviate slightly from the original value if necessary, I've done so in many electronic devices without any issues..
     

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