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Why does change in voltage affect 555 frequency?

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The LED frequency will be the same as the 555 output frequency. Use a CRO to view the waveform if you don't believe it. Or replace the LED with a resistor and measure the frequency at the collector (pointless, I know, but you can do it as an exercise).

It also looks like the carrier has to be switched on and off roughly 600us/600us (see page 2 of datasheet). This is sometimes done to weed out noise IR sources. You'll want another 555 to create this pulsing effect.

As to the centre frequency of the device: no idea. Sorry. You could find it yourself by decreasing the transmitter power to quite low (so you don't saturate the device - should give better readings) and sweeping the frequency - record the freq that the signal is detected, and the freq that it stops being detected at; the centre frequency should be in the centre of those 2 values.
 
From ericgibbs
Do you have a series resistor from 555 pin 3 to the base of the BC549.??

No, I have just wired the o/p direct to the base. Should I need a resistor there?

From dougy83
The LED frequency will be the same as the 555 output frequency. Use a CRO to view the waveform if you don't believe it.

Ermm, that's how I know the frequency is different - I am measuring it with a CRO :)
Just to clarify, I am seeing a difference in the frequency between the following 2 readings.
a) the unconnected output from the 555 (i.e. a wire taken directly from pin 3 and NOT connected to anything else
b) the collector of the transistor (which is also the negative lead of the LED) when the 555 o/p is connected to the transistor base.
It looks as though the resistor, LED, transistor 'group' somehow affect the input signal frequency, but how/why I have no idea.

The point you make about switching the carrier is something I had missed :( So, it looks like I will need to do 2 things to generate a suitable signal
1) generate pulses at the required frequency, say 37KHz
2) use another circuit to break switch this on for 600us then off for 600us
Hmmm, this simple(?) project is getting more and more interesting by the minute...

BTW, how do you guys insert bits of other peoples appends so that they are referenced correctly? I am cutting and pasting bits of your appends, then highlighting and selecting the 'Wrap quote tags around' icon, but there must be a better way that also gives the quoter details, and the link?
 
From ericgibbs
No, I have just wired the o/p direct to the base. Should I need a resistor there?

hi,
The BC549 HFE is about 200 at 100mA, with a Vbe on of approx 0.7V

So the series base resistor should be:

Rb = [Vout-0.7v]/0.005 where the 5mA is required base current.

So if Vout=10, then Rb=1.8K [ this will give a base current of *10 the minimum required and will, drive the BC549 fast into saturation.

Note: have you measured the Vmin out from the 555..??

Can you confirm the supply voltage and the Resistor in series with IR diode and type.
 
Last edited:
Without a series base resistor for the transistor then the output of the 555 and the base-emitter of the transistor are probably blown up.
 
I've downloaded and installed LTSpice as per a previous members suggestion. I've uploaded a visual of the circuit, which now has 2 555 chips - the first just gives a frequency of around 36KHz, while the second one turns this on and off at a frequency of around 833Hz. If this signal is correctly generated, then I expect to see the ZD-1952 output go low....that's the theory anyhow.

The circuit diagram (with some comments) is Circuit.jpg. I also ran a simulation and by measuring at point A, got the output shown in SimulationTrace.jpg. Pretty cool, but only theoretical of course!!

So then I went and built my circuit using the same spec components I'd used in the model. The results are not too discouraging, but certainly not as accurate as those in the model.

I measured the frequency output at 4 places as shown in the circuit diagram. The results of those measurements can be found in their respective jpeg files, e.g. CROTraceA, CROTraceB etc.

I guess the most obvious differences are

1) both frequencies are lower than expected. Instead of 833Hz, I am seeing around 755Hz, and the expected 36KHz is actually 34KHz. I suppose the latter is close enough though.

2) The duty cycle of the 833Hz frequency is nowhere near symetrical.

There is also quite a bit of frequency still coming through during the 'off' period - this can easily be seen in the screenshot signalTransition.jpg.

Anyhow, although I am still frustrated in my attempts to get the ZD-1952 recognise my signal, this has been an interesting learning experience.

I suppose the bit I find most challenging/frustrating, is that I don't know how to easily vary the frequency...at least, not without going through another calculation for R1, R2 and C1...which takes me way too long. I have experimented with a variable cap, but this resulted in the frequency changing in one direction, only to come down and go in the other, and only slightly. Apart from getting hold of a sophisticated signal generator, I'd appreciate any advice on how to 'tune' my circuit so that it emits the signal carrier expected by the ZD-1952.

For anyone interested in a bit more detail, here are the measurements I am getting on the output of the ZD-1952.

1 - IR diode not connected, i.e. no pulsed IR - 5.05V
2 - IR diode connected - 3.1V

So, it looks like the receiver is picking up the pulse, but I still get the same reading (3.1V) even if I cover the LED (using a heatshrink tube).

I then experimented with a couple of remote controls from DVD, Topfield, with the IR diode still connected.
2.8
4.5
3 - Sony DVD remote button pressed - 2.5V
4 - Topfield remote button pressed - 3.8V

I then repeated tests 3 and 4, but this time with the IR diode disconnected.
3 - Sony DVD remote button pressed - 2.8V
4 - Topfield remote button pressed - 4.5V

All up, a bit of a confusing picture. Seeing as how the voltage dropped considerably when I connected the diode (test 2) I am wondering if in fact the receiver is working, and even when I cover the diode with heatshrink, the IR may still be 'escaping' and being detected.
 

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I guess you have used a lousy qualitity cap. :)
I agree, some cheap ceramic capacitors can have a huge voltage coefficient.

Try replacing the capacitor with a higher quality film capacitor and it should be more stable.
 
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