You don't mention any peak current ratings, ESR/ESL requirements, DF requirement, etc. It's difficult to spec out a cap without general values for these specs.
Will this work?
Every other version of that circuit has blown up or burned down so what do you think? Personally, I'm putting my money on this one doing the same. Either the switching devices pop or the coil or capacitors melt down just as they have countless times before.
If you point a loaded gun at your foot and pull the trigger and it shots you in the foot do you think that if you use a slightly different gun and or bullets and try the same experiment it wont too shoot you in the foot like every one before it did?
There's an inherent design flaw with that type of circuit that makes it unreliable at higher power operation and there's no ways around it without going to massively over sized and rated parts of which you obviously will not do.
And what makes it worse is that for the time and money you have spent doing it wrong and for the time how many people have told you how to do it the right way, only to be ignored, you probably could have bought the right parts and built the right circuit and had a functional design done a long time ago.
So what exactly is the point in this anymore beyond proving that you like to come here and ask the same question over and over then ignore the answers every single time?
Is is a stone hard mental block (cognitive capacity limitation) on being able to learn something new or a fear of succeeding with a different properly designed circuit or something else?
In that case, why don't you buy and try several different types of capacitor and report your findings? Other members here could then benefit from knowing which type works better (or not).This is what a person does when they are RETIRED I am having FUN. This is more of a learning project than a useful project.
This is what a person does when they are RETIRED I am having FUN. This is more of a learning project than a useful project.
I was thinking about building this circuit into a plastic flash light body with 2 wires to clip onto a car battery then give it to my son he is a certified auto mechanic he can use it at work. My son was telling me, you should see the stuff people do they try to do their own auto repair with the few tools they have once the bolts are damaged to the point it can not be removed they bring it to the dealership to be fix.
That sort of makes more sense. I often destroy things in the process of learning as well.
Sounds like a noble cause but the logistics of your current designs and their realistic implementation are terrible to outright dangerous for a number of reasons.
1. The coil is uninsulated and unissolated from the power sources so if it being powered off the vehicles battery it's essentially a high current live line with zero isolation which means as soon as it bumps anything it's going to be a major park show.
2. To do any degree e of fastener heating it going to take a lot of power which at 12 volts will require hundreds of amps just to equate to what a small hand held propane or butane mini torch can do.
3. Its a high powered HF electromagnetic field generator which means its has the potential to induce a fairly high current in every wire of every wiring harness that it gets near.
4. You have yet to perfect it to give decent power and stable operation with a power source well above what vehicle battery works at which means anything you have figured out still needs a total redue to make it work at lower voltages and even higher currents that you have been playing with so far.
That all said, I do think the idea of a hand held induction heater has merit in some applications but for the efforts and costs you have been going to if you really think he needs one there are off the shelf units to be had for fairly reasonable prices.
https://www.amazon.com/Bolt-Buster-BB2-ACC-Handheld-Induction/dp/B00ATSL7VE 1000 watt ~$378
That's just one your competition.
I was thinking about a voltage double circuit 12v battery is really about 13.2v x 2 = 26v.
you're still going to draw the same current from the battery, the voltage doubler circuit/DC-DC converter will use up about 10%, so you will get 10% less power. it doesn't matter if the heater is running from 12V or 24V from a converter, the current from a 12V battery is going to remain the same if the heater is a 1000W heater. a round figure of 1000W is going to be 83.3A from the battery. you will need at least #3 wire for the battery cables. the only real advantages of using a converter to 24V are going to be 1) less current draw by the heater itself, and smaller wire required between the converter and the heater 2) lower current requirement for the MOSFETs. the drawbacks of using the converter are 1) the converter needs to be able to convert 12V@83A to 24V@41.5A (actually assuming 90% conversion efficiency, the 24V output current will be 38A) and 2) the converter will likely be more expensive than the heater itself.I was thinking about a voltage double circuit 12v car battery is really about 13.2v x 2 = 26v.
you're still going to draw the same current from the battery, the voltage doubler circuit/DC-DC converter will use up about 10%, so you will get 10% less power. it doesn't matter if the heater is running from 12V or 24V from a converter, the current from a 12V battery is going to remain the same if the heater is a 1000W heater. a round figure of 1000W is going to be 83.3A from the battery. you will need at least #3 wire for the battery cables. the only real advantages of using a converter to 24V are going to be 1) less current draw by the heater itself, and smaller wire required between the converter and the heater 2) lower current requirement for the MOSFETs. the drawbacks of using the converter are 1) the converter needs to be able to convert 12V@83A to 24V@41.5A (actually assuming 90% conversion efficiency, the 24V output current will be 38A) and 2) the converter will likely be more expensive than the heater itself.
I talked to my son he said induction heater does not need to heat bolts red hot. It only needs to melt & release lock tight so bolts will come out about 600 to 700 degrees. The dealership has acetylene torch everyone can use. Induction heater might be handy if someone is already using the torch.
Generally speaking for high frequency you'll probably want a metallized polypropylene capacitor (MKP).
Depends on whether or not that tiny amount of inductance is a problem, and if it is can you counteract its effects enough for it to not be a problem. It's highly application dependent, which is why I said generally speaking.Aren't box capacitors better than rolled capacitors because rolled caps are rolled up like a coil and have inductance like a coil and box caps are not rolled?
Aren't box capacitors better than rolled capacitors because rolled caps are rolled up like a coil and have inductance like a coil and box caps are not rolled?
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