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Trying to make a circuit

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ronv

Well-Known Member
Most Helpful Member
The 339 does give you a lot of spares. Maybe an LM393 would be better(and smaller). You can always use the IRF530PbF. It is TO-220.
 

BigB9k

New Member
I'm still not sure how I am going to connect everything, the parts are small! I could learn how to make/etch a board I guess (which at some point in time I'll do anyway)

Most of these are simple pins, I'm trying to avoid the surface mount option.
 
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RMMM

New Member
Thanks for posting that!
Thanks a lot for everyones input too

Ok, my expertise is quite limited. Really limited. I got the workings of a relay down, and that is about it.
The data sheet from mouser says the LM339 is a 16pin?

the IRF530 looks like this?

10976-to263ab.jpg


Surface mount hmmm? I guess I should tackle how I'm going to get that all squared away.
How does one connect that middle pin?

The body "tab" on the left side in the photo is also the middle pin. So that big tab is easier to solder to than the little pins.
 

BigB9k

New Member
I started to order parts for the circuit listed, confused on some stuff such as which capacitor types to use, along with wattage, and voltage options.
here is my parts list, can someone give it the once over please?
R1 - 4.7megohms
(Metal Film Resistors - Through Hole 1/4 WATT 4.7M OHM 1%)
RK1/4DC4704F

R2 - 2.2mohms resistor
(Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 2.2M OHM 5% 1/4W)
CFS1/4CT52R225J

R3 - 2.2mohms resistor
(Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 2.2M OHM 5% 1/4W)
CFS1/4CT52R225J

R4 - 10k resistor
(Metal Film Resistors - Through Hole 10Kohms 1% 50PPM)
270-10K-RC

R5 47k resistor
(Metal Film Resistors - Through Hole 1/4 WATT 47K OHM 5%)
MF1/4LCT52R473J

R6 - 2k resistor
(Metal Film Resistors - Through Hole 2K 1% 50PPM)
MF1/2CC2001F

C1 - 2u (n/a 2.2uF)
(Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors (MLCC) - Leaded 2.2uF 10V X5R 10%)
FK14X5R1A225K

C2 - .2uF
(Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 50volts 0.22uF 5x11 20% 2LS)
UVZ1HR22MDD

C3 - .1u
(Polyester Film Capacitors 400volts 0.1uF
QXK2G104KTPTZH

C4 - 100uF
(Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 25volts 100uF)
UVR1E101MED1TD

D1&2 - 1N4148
(Diodes- General Purpose, Power, Switching. HI SPEED DO-35)
1N4148,113

L1 - relay
(Low Signal Relays - PCB COIL 12VDC NON-LATCH)
EA2-12NJ

Just wanted to make sure I'm getting the right stuff. Part numbers listed are from mouser.
 

ronv

Well-Known Member
Most Helpful Member
Both C2 and C3 are .1 Ufd. You might save a bit by using multilayer ceramic at 25 or 50 volts. All resistors are 1/4 watt. Usually 1% metal film are cheapest. C1 can be an electrolytic and should be 15 or 25 volts. Looks good!
Don't be afraid to ask questions.
You could buy a small vector board at Radio Shack or someplace to build it on.
Ron V.
 

BigB9k

New Member
updated my mouser order. Most expensive thing was the relay @ $2.60
I ordered 10 of everything (except the relays) so I have plenty of chances to mess up.
While I wait I suppose I'll learn how to make a board.
 

BigB9k

New Member
I was thinking about this while I wait for my parts to get here, instead of using one audio channel to trigger my relay, what if I somehow combined the 2 audio channels, to trigger the input together?
This will be handy if I ever connect a mono device, or if my cables ever become damaged (it'll still trigger)

Is this possible without disturbing the audio signals (more than needed of course)

11018-try2.jpg
 
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ronv

Well-Known Member
Most Helpful Member
I think it would be a little tricky to keep the right side from talking to the left side with just diodes. Best way might be to build 2 peak detectors feeding the same fet. That way they are tied together outside the radio.
 

BigB9k

New Member
if diodes allow electricity to only flow in one direction, wouldn't this be exactly what I need.
I just don't understand how the Diode values work.
 

4pyros

Well-Known Member
Most Helpful Member
if diodes allow electricity to only flow in one direction, wouldn't this be exactly what I need.
I just don't understand how the Diode values work.
Simply put diodes make AC into DC. thay are one way valves for DC not so much for AC, audio is AC and batterys are DC. Other than to say it will not work you need to study rectifiers.
 

ronv

Well-Known Member
Most Helpful Member
It's hard to say if the diodes would work without knowing the voltage levels of your devices. For example the signal may be below the .6 volts to break down the diode, or there may be a DC offset that would make the right talk to the left.
 

BigB9k

New Member
Well, put it all together, hooked it up to power...
No smoke :)
checked my headphone jack to make sure I wasn't getting +12 to the leads (wasn't) :)

Hooked it to a speaker
Plugged the headphone jack into the laptop

...and nothing :(

So, any ideas what might/could be wrong?
or what I should check?

EDIT:
Looks like I hooked my IRF530 wrong.
I was using this Data Sheet
Which doesn't show which pins are D G and S.
Looks like the middle pin is the middle connection. Well no, this data sheet shows how its done. Looks like I have some pins to fix.
 

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