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taking first steps in PCB

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local drugstore and hardware store

ANY drugstore will sell hydrogen peroxide. its used to clean wounds, mouthwash, etc./ buy two large bottles because you will dilute two parts of hadrogen peroxide to one part muratic acid.
muratic acid = pool chemical, cleaning concrete etc. CAUTION very caustic, don't breath fumes of get on skin or clothes.
put one part (I start with 2 oz of acid) into PLASTIC container
THEN add the 4 oz of hydrogen peroxide.
do not splash or add the acid TO the peroxide. Some chemical lab thing??
(adding a base to acid not reversed? )
insert board, wear rubber gloves. using a sponge you can lightly wipe the copper off.
I add filled planes to my bards so less etchant is needed.
I highly recommend the PULSAR METHOD

iF YOU NEED a pcboard printed, I would be happy to print one for you.
pm me.
 
Like mentioned, any drugstore. It's not that difficult to find, at least in North America.

I can't believe you even tried googling 'toner transfer pcb' as there are dozens of step by step tutorials that come up.
 
I wonder if there's anything in there that you can make using 100k resistors (and I mean quantity, not resistance :D)

an awful lot of heat ? or is it what they are made of ?
 
Resistors can be used as e-matches to detonate explosives.

Try connecting a 10R ¼W resistor across a car battery and watch it glow white hot before burning up. For mains operation use 4k7.:D
 
Try connecting a 10R ¼W resistor across a car battery and watch it glow white hot before burning up.

Pass :eek: My plan is to practise my soldering by joining all the resistors together and wrapping them around the planet. Odds are 2 : 1 on it making it making it all the way round 6 times.
 
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I'll make a resistor suit, climb to the roof of a 50-story building during a thunderstorm, don a copper helmet, and shout "all gods are morons" :D
 
I'll make a resistor suit, climb to the roof of a 50-story building during a thunderstorm, don a copper helmet, and shout "all gods are morons" :D

In which case a bunch of heretic nutters will bow down and worship you and therefore invoke the anger of thore whore whose adoration you have robbed and so he will smite you with a thunderbolt,

you will then go down in legend but not in the usual form: health and safety will thereby out law resistors as they will not recognise the existance of thore (as he is out of their control) and blame the incident on the resistors alone. This will cause civilization as we know it to go into a meltdown and as we go back to the stone age you will go down in history as the man that caused the meltdown but no one will know how it really all happened.

perhaps 200'000 years from now we will have forgoten the legend and risen back to our current infamous state of civilization. :D
 
Well, that was certainly convoluted :D

The next act of Thor after attempting to smite me, will be to bring his hammer down upon he who could not spell 'Thor' ;)
 
Well, that was certainly convoluted :D

The next act of Thor after attempting to smite me, will be to bring his hammer down upon he who could not spell 'Thor' ;)

oooh golly i ge tto be in the legend too ? yea long time since no see Thor i forgot how to spell his name, well at least i get to go down in history and if i may be granted a last wish oh mighty thor can you bash some sense into those health and safty men or hammers will be banned too next and at that rate we won't even survive in the stne age, we'll all be back to being monkeys
 
I have a serious suggestion for all those 1M resistors, connect 90 of them in series, pot them, and you have a 90M high voltage resistor which you can connect in series with a 10M input DVM and measure up to 10kV.

Ten 1Ms in series could make a high voltage probe for a 'scope, especially when used in conjunction with a ×10 probe.

You could use the resistors to make jewellery for your mum, sister grandmother, girlfriend or yourself, if you're into that kind of thing.:D
 
It's unlikely I'll be measuring as high as 10kV in the near future, but it certainly gives me a good bit of soldering practice... as soon as I can find the 1M resistors in the crate of assorted resistors :D

Edit: @10kV and 90MΩ, I ≈ 111µA.
(111 × 10^-6) × 10000 ≈ 1.11W. Most of the resistors are mainly between 0.25 and 0.6W, so that'd be higher than their rating. There are a few packs of 1W resistors and a couple of 2W or 3W ones, but I don't think there are 90 × 1MΩ resistors >1W.

Another edit: Of course the above calculations could have been simplified to P = V^2 / R but never mind.

Anyway, perhaps I should stop hijacking thunderchild's thread with my mountain of resistors discussion before he gets Zeus to smite me :D
 
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No, the total resistance (including the 10M meter input) is 100M.

10k/100M = 100µA

You forgot that the power dissipated by each resistor is 1/100th of the total power dissipated.

P = 100µA²×1M = 10mW per resistor so you'll be fine.
 
You forgot that the power dissipated by each resistor is 1/100th of the total power dissipated.

Ah yes, of course I did. The voltage across each resistor is 1/100th of the voltage across the entire circuit, and the current remains ~ 100µA.
 
All right back on topic.

Thunderchild asked me via PM how I make PCBs using magazine paper and as per my policy of only answering questions on the open forum, I'm posting my response here.


  1. Cut the board to size.
  2. Make sure the copper clad board is clean and free from copper oxide and dirt; it should be bright and shiny.
  3. Print artwork onto magazine paper, it must be medium weight clay coated paper, such as the kind used to print the Radio Times. Ordinary printer paper will work but will need more soaking.
  4. Place the paper on the copper clad board and iron using a normal clothes iron. Use firm pressure and make sure you've pressed all of the board. Try the medium temperature setting first, you'll probably need to experiment with it before you get perfect results.
  5. Soak in water until the paper becomes soggy.
  6. Peal the paper away, you may need to lightly rub it to remove the remaining traces of paper. Don't worry if they're some tiny bits stuck in places, they should come off during etching and the etchant should soak though enough to work.
  7. If there are tiny gaps where the toner hasn't stuck fill them in using a permanent parker pen. If there are large bits missing then you probably haven't ironed it evenly so you'll need to start again.:(
  8. Check your board and that you haven't done anything silly such as printing it the wrong way round, this is your last chance before you potentially waste a piece of board.:D Once you're satisfied, etch the board until all the exposed copper dissolves.
 
ok so what paper exactly are you using, where do you get it,

if its patty paper I can probably go to a printers i know and get all the patty gloss or matt I need for years and also stock up anyone else that lives locally to me if their willing to come and collect it from me and pay what ever small price i'm sure he will charge me (for a bulk quantity)
 
Try junk mail.
I have used the Tesco leaflets that drop through the door on a regular basis. Works fine.

ah yes thats the type of paper i was refering too, i take it the original print is not a problem ? perhaps it even helps the toner to not stick to the paper too well ? (I used to work as an offset operator)
 
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