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Sex Toy Vibrator Motor

Will name brand (Duracell/Energizer) batteries burn out a vibrator prematurely?

  • YES

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Theoretically, but highly unlikely

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • NO

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
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Cheap batteries have a high internal resistance so they reduce the max current. Good batteries are not available in the country the toys are made in. They will overpower the toys.
 
Another true story .........

I used to work at Tandy in the UK and we always built up a good relationship with the customers.

One morning a middle aged bleached blonde woman walked in and waited for the counter to clear. She then slapped down a huge dildo on the counter and asked if it was possible to convert it to mains operation and to get it going faster.

I could never look her in the eye again - managed to sell her a variable voltage mains power supply though.
 
House0Fwax said:
I have repaired a few said 'toys' over the years ( last one was only a few weeks back ).

The most revolting personal item I have ever repaired was someones electric shaver, I assume I was only used for shaving facial hair!

If someone presented me with a battery operated "mister wobbly" to repair, I think I would tell them to go away and stick it where the sun does not shine!

JimB
 
audioguru said:
Cheap batteries have a high internal resistance so they reduce the max current. Good batteries are not available in the country the toys are made in. They will overpower the toys.

So the higher internal resistance is sufficient enough that the potentiometer(aka speed control) does not make the battery resistance negligable?

Any rough estimates of the resistance of a name brand vs a cheapo? A quick search puts cells in the milliohm range

I agree this is the only realistic difference between the batteries and I was quite certain the clerks explanations (too much alkaline and mercury in the name brands) was completely absurd.

I checked Duracells website and they removed mercury from all their batteries back in 1993!

Should I be an a**hole and go back with my research compiled into a single page document including direct quotes from duracell? I'm tempted... But I first need to confirm that the internal resistance of the cheap batteries is not significant.


As for having 30 toys... Thats our business ;) And that was a pretty funny story about Jackie!
 
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Nigel Goodwin said:
It's probably been there already! :p

Yeah seriously, how do you think it broke in the first place... If you really want them to put it where the sun dont shine you'd be best off fixing it.
 
I think this thread wins the Darwin Award. While there have been some funny posts at times, presently we find ourselves discussing battery life as applied to sex toys! :confused:

And buurin, it certainly may be "your business" as to what or why you own 30 sex toys. However, it's my priveledge to comment when such an off the wall subject is brought up in a forum that deals with the sensible part of your experiments... that part being batteries.
Vibrators are nothing more than a switch, batteries and a motor with an off-centered weight on the shaft; the same principle used in pocket pagers and vibrating videogame controllers. Perhaps the motors are so cheap that their duty-cycle cannot handle a quality alkaline battery. Instead the cheapo ones crap out before the motor overheats or the off-centered weight flies off! Let's face it... there's prolly more thought put into the exterior looks, feel, and finish than there is with the electro-mechanical aspect of the thing.
 
HiTech said:
I think this thread wins the Darwin Award. While there have been some funny posts at times, presently we find ourselves discussing battery life as applied to sex toys! :confused:

And buurin, it certainly may be "your business" as to what or why you own 30 sex toys. However, it's my priveledge to comment when such an off the wall subject is brought up in a forum that deals with the sensible part of your experiments... that part being batteries.
Vibrators are nothing more than a switch, batteries and a motor with an off-centered weight on the shaft; the same principle used in pocket pagers and vibrating videogame controllers. Perhaps the motors are so cheap that their duty-cycle cannot handle a quality alkaline battery. Instead the cheapo ones crap out before the motor overheats or the off-centered weight flies off! Let's face it... there's prolly more thought put into the exterior looks, feel, and finish than there is with the electro-mechanical aspect of the thing.

Can you explain what "their duty cycle cannot handle a quality alkaline"?

I know what duty cycle is... I just dont see how quality alkaline affects the motor. Do you simply mean quality alkaline have too low a resistance and provide too much current?

I'd maybe buy the argument to use cheap batteries if there is no speed control, otherwise I am quite convinced the resistance of the speed control is large enough that the battery is just a non issue. Perhaps when you max out the speed control it becomes a short and relies on the resistance of the battery? Is it realistic to think that the speed control becomes a short? Obviously I can measure this and I intend to do so.

What really intrigues me about the issue is that fact that it is so well accepted and established amongst retailers.

PS I wasnt offended or anything, I was joking about it being 'our business'... I posted our toy count so its hair to say its now your business too :)
 
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I got in touch with an old friend of mine a couple of years back, he had moved to the USA and we lost touch. He told me he was running his own web design and hosting business, and his biggest customer was a sexual aids company - supposedly the largest in America?.

He gave me the URL, and I had a look - I didn't understand what you did with half of it, never mind what it was called! :D there should have been help pages and instructions on the site!! :D
 
I'd be hardpressed (no pun intended!) to think there are any individuals in the sex toy industry that would have detailed technical knowledge of battery composition/performance and as for motors too. I'm thinking it's a conspiracy thing. They want you to use the cheapo batteries that typically leak and ruin the device they are in. That way you have to return to purchase a new one.... $25 dildo and 50¢ batteries.
 
I think its also a ploy to cover themselves because they KNOW the toys are so cheap... So when your motor burns out they can be like hey "did you use duracells?... oohhh well thats why!"

In fact one retailer online says use of duracell/energizer voids any warranty (though there is none since you cant bring a toy back under any cirumstance... they test it in front of you before you even buy it)

So does ANYONE agree with the salespeople? Any other theories?
 
I think they're way overpriced, suck an idem probably only cost a pound to make but they oten sell them for more than 20 times that.

As far as internal resistance goes, it's a total myth that a battery with a lower internal resistance will allow too much current to flow, the motor will only draw what it needs.

Talking about the toxic substances used in batteries, alkaline batteries are pretty nasty and NiCads are toxic. I would hope that dildoes are suitably sealed to prevent any nasty chemicals from entering the body if the batteries were to leak.
 
Hero999 said:
Talking about the toxic substances used in batteries, alkaline batteries are pretty nasty and NiCads are toxic. I would hope that dildoes are suitably sealed to prevent any nasty chemicals from entering the body if the batteries were to leak.

Generally the battery piece doesnt go into the person... Many times the device is controlled by a wired remote which contains batteries.
 
Let the resistance of the motor be 1 ohm.
Two Energizer old AA carbon-zinc cells have a total internal resistance of 1 ohm. The motor's current is 1.5A for a short time.
Two Energizer AA alkaline cells have a total internal resistance of 0.45 ohms. The motor's current is 2.07A for a long time.

Which battery will burn out the motor the quickest?
 
audioguru said:
Let the resistance of the motor be 1 ohm.
Two Energizer old AA carbon-zinc cells have a total internal resistance of 1 ohm. The motor's current is 1.5A for a short time.
Two Energizer AA alkaline cells have a total internal resistance of 0.45 ohms. The motor's current is 2.07A for a long time.

Which battery will burn out the motor the quickest?

Great example and it backs up my only theory however your equation omits the speed control and assumes the battery is directly connected to the motor, which it is not.
 
That's only valid when the motor stalls or is starting. Normally the motor draws what it wants without overheating.
 
The bearings in the cheap motor are not precision and probably are not lubricated so they have friction. The offset weight that causes the vibration is a pretty heavy load on the poor little overloaded motor. Because the little motor is overloaded then it is used at full speed all the time.

If I drive my car at full power all the time I think its motor also won't last very long.
 
Hey check out this goofy web page: **broken link removed**

I stumbled upon it from iHacked.com. Hey burrin, now your customers can really enjoy their favorite music!! This guy is funny, esp. his project featuring Arnold Swarzenegger.

**broken link removed**
 
**broken link removed**

This episode is going to be the best ever!
 
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