Phone replacement battery

jack0987

Member
I need to replace my phone battery. RS wants a bit of money for these. They appear to be three AAA batteries.

How could I just make up my own three pack?

Nigel Goodwin

Super Moderator
By buying three batteries the same size - if you can find them - if they are AAA size, then no problem. Simply solder the batteries together and apply heat shrink, or if you can't source that, then insulating tape.

jack0987

Member
Just looking for guidance. Have not used this phone for a while and it is quite old.

I opened the pack and they are definitely AAA size wired in series.
For my phone, I had to change the polarity of the RS pack.

So I just get three AAA 1.5v Ni-MH batteries and wire them in series? Do they have to be NI-MH?

Nigel Goodwin

Super Moderator
Just looking for guidance. Have not used this phone for a while and it is quite old.

I opened the pack and they are definitely AAA size wired in series.
For my phone, I had to change the polarity of the RS pack.

So I just get three AAA 1.5v Ni-MH batteries and wire them in series? Do they have to be NI-MH?
Best to Use Ni-Mh as that's what the existing ones are, in any case Ni-Cd would probably be rare these days.

rjenkinsgb

Well-Known Member
Yes, that would work.

Electro_Hero

Well-Known Member
Each cell is a 1.2 volt NiMh battery and the 3 cells in series are 3.6 volts. The battery charge/maintain system is designed for that voltage and battery type. Years ago, before the demise of Radio Shack locally those packs were not very expensive. I used a few and like mentioned, had to reverse the polarity of my connectors. That said using a simple Google of "3.6 Volt NiMh Phone batteries Amazon" gets me a few dozen hits with most in the $5.00 to$7.00 range which I see as cheap and easier then building a pack and needing to solder to batteries which are normally tied using a metal strip and small spot welds. Considering price I would just buy rather than build.

Ron

Externet

Active Member
Done it several times to other items using 3 cells for 3.6V : Replaced with a single lithium ion cell, salvaged or new.

Nigel Goodwin

Super Moderator
Done it several times to other items using 3 cells for 3.6V : Replaced with a single lithium ion cell, salvaged or new.
Bit on the dangerous side, as Li-Ion easily burst in to flames when incorrectly charged - and a crude Ni-Mh charger in a phone (just a resistor from a higher voltage) is probably as bad as you could get

KeepItSimpleStupid

Well-Known Member
I do this all the time. There is no big deal replacing the Ni-cds with Ni-mH of a higher capacity. The last pack looks like yours: https://www.batteryspace.com/CustomNiMH3.6v2200mAhAAw/2APolyswitchand622AwgOpenWires.aspx

3AA and 2200 mAh with wire leads. Yours may be AAA.

After doing it for many years (1975 for Ni-Cds) I was using tabbed batteries. Don't. get the ones with wire leads.

I have the part numbers for that connector and pins somewhere for your connector. I'm in bed now. You can "sometimes' cut and splice with heat shrink. in an emergency. You can sometimes renew the pin housings.

I have a vtech phone that uses your connector and a vtech baby monitor that uses another, so I can find the part numbers/

The problem is the crimper is expensive. You'll pay about $70.00 USD for a cheap nice crimper. I usually label the pack and it looks like I used the wrong company name. Name date, pack #. I always look for a battery with a warranty. Used correctly, I've gotten 7-8 years out of a Ni-mH battery and they die at the same time. A roll of Kapton tape comes in handy especially for those doors that like to fall off. FWIW: They do cell the shrinkable sleeves. Nigel Goodwin Super Moderator Most Helpful Member I do this all the time. There is no big deal replacing the Ni-cds with Ni-mH of a higher capacity. The last pack looks like yours: https://www.batteryspace.com/CustomNiMH3.6v2200mAhAAw/2APolyswitchand622AwgOpenWires.aspx 3AA and 2200 mAh with wire leads. Yours may be AAA. After doing it for many years (1975 for Ni-Cds) I was using tabbed batteries. Don't. get the ones with wire leads. I have the part numbers for that connector and pins somewhere for your connector. I'm in bed now. You can "sometimes' cut and splice with heat shrink. in an emergency. You can sometimes renew the pin housings. I have a vtech phone that uses your connector and a vtech baby monitor that uses another, so I can find the part numbers/ The problem is the crimper is expensive. You'll pay about$70.00 USD for a cheap nice crimper.

I usually label the pack and it looks like I used the wrong company name. Name date, pack #. I always look for a battery with a warranty.

Used correctly, I've gotten 7-8 years out of a Ni-mH battery and they die at the same time.

A roll of Kapton tape comes in handy especially for those doors that like to fall off.

FWIW: They do cell the shrinkable sleeves.
Or even sell them - nice Freudian slip!

We keep various sizes at work, as we do a lot of battery replacements, and to that end also have a battery spot welder (cheap from China).

Just a word of caution about sleeving for battery packs - it's not soft and rubbery like normal heat shrink, it's hard and shiny - it's important to gently heat it, and not get it too hot, or you melt holes through it. It does make a nice professional job though, looks a lot better than sticky tape.

KeepItSimpleStupid

Well-Known Member
Your connector housing is a JST EHR-2: https://www.digikey.com/products/en...ectangular-connectors-housings/319?k=455-1000

Pins: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/jst-sales-america-inc/SEH-001T-P0.6/455-1042-1-ND/527266

I think these https://www.hozan.co.jp/E/catalog/Crimpers/P-706.html are the crimpers you want. The TE connectivity ones were like \$20.00 back in the 1980's .

It' the AMP service tool II. Here's the specs. https://www.te.com/commerce/Documen...6202&DocType=Customer+Drawing&DocLang=English Lots of distrbuters have the right part number, BUT the WRONG picture. BE CAREFUL.

This

696202-1/crimp-tool-hand-open-closed-barrel/dp/22C6015?CMP=AFC-ECIA

is not

696202-1/A30574-ND/440285

Has the same part number, but the picture is wrong. I've tried many times to correct it. So. Maybe Newark/Farnell is not the place to buy from if you expect the data to be correct.