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PCB etching

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Ok guys, I just got to the shack and got their PCB etchant kit but their instructions don't talk about the items they put in the kit much.

I have a bottle of brown etchant, a sharpie marker, clear case to put liquids in, Green steel wool pad, 2 boards, 1/16" bit which is too big so ill use something else, and last but not least...the item not even mentioned in the paperwork...a bottle of "Resist Ink Solvent"

im guessing that sharpie is the "ink resistant pen"

I have a big 3 x 4.54 inch board as well...whats the best tool to cut these boards down and should I do that before or after the etching?

is if anyone here has used the shack etching pack any help would be great.

another thing is this printout of the transfer sheet is huge, I'm going to try and use a program called PCB123 to make a new transfer with the parts layed out as in the mods.

the new board will be 3" x 2.5"
 
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William At MyBlueRoom said:
This is true, beat me and I designed it.

Drill it from the solder side, the bit should center itself in the hole. Use a drill press though.

so whats the difference between the sharpie and the bottle of "Resist Ink Solvent"?

they are the same thing to be but why do they give you both?
 
the solvent is for removing the resist after you etch.

I know you've already bought the kit but why not just use perf board and point to point wiring? it's such a small project.
**broken link removed**
Just lay the parts out like your circuit and then use the component leads or extra wire to connect them.
 
Solvent will remove the sharpie.. Philba has it right, it is small enough to do on the project board..

Scrub the copper well, draw it on the copper, note it will be mirrored if you are looking through the board. If usind plastic tray, not glass, pour in enough to cover it well. Board in acid and swish 5 minutes with plastic knife or whatever you have. Lift in 5 minutes and see how much it left. Rinse and Drill.

I still like printing and ironing them on :)

If you use a glass tray, heat it (warm not hot). It will ecth faster. I would pour the old solvent in
another plastic container and not mix it with the fresh stuff, and use over and over.. When saturated, use more fresh from the new bottle.
 
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Engraving PCB's

moody07747 said:
Im looking for a premade board again...i dont really want to go through making one myself for just one project though so im looking for someone else to make the one i posted.

i emailed the guy at the site and he said he would change the layout of that PCB so it printed in the correct size.

Anyways im running into a few problems making the power supply...parts sheet says get some itmes and the layout sheet says they are something different...ill post about it in my other thread.

My latest experiment involves using my computer driven engraving machine to engrave around all the traces. My layout for the power supply:
http//www.pbase.com/sinoline/pcb_experiments
It works fine on plastic, have not tried it on PCB material yet, waiting for my order to arrive. The carbide cutter will not know the difference so I am 100% confident it will work fine. I have cutters from .010 and up. You can have the first one for little or nothing because this is just a test, of cause I will not drill it.
I am working on a much more complicated design with two 14 pin DIP's on it, should work fine because I don't have any problem with traces down to one mm in width.
So in theory if you can generate your design in the .pgl format you should be able to take your design and your blank PCB to the local engraving shop and have your board made. I would call first. ;-)
--
Rolf
 
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forgot to update this

I got 90% of the soldering done...the rest is waiting on those other resistors which are in the mail along with some parts to mod the DS1 distortion pedal this weekend.

**broken link removed**

I have some oddly shaped outlets that are making it really hard to install as you can see so i'm going to look for some outlets with a round shape and bolt on front like in this link

**broken link removed**

here's the outlets I have now
https://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/DCJ-12/search/2.1MM_DC_COAX_JACK_W_MOUTING_FLANGE_.html

if anyone knows where I can get round panel mount outlets that will fit these 2.1mm cable ends that would help out allot.

Thanks
 
yes, I have some here. they are round and snap-in. not PCB mount. I think they are kobiconn from this catalog page: https://www.electro-tech-online.com/custompdfs/2006/07/848.pdf
there are several types that might work for you.

I have also use PCB mount like the kind you have. I put them on a PCB and then cut a somewhat over sized hole in the case that lines up with the jack. Just plug through the hole. works ok and doesn't look butt ugly...
 
Thanks.,..i have seen lots at jameco that switchraft sells but they are high in price ...about $2 for just one and the #1 problem i have is finding the male end that works with the female end.

they all say 2.1mm but sometimes they dont say the size of that pin in the center.


ill looking to get A from that link, (163-4007-EX)

looks like it will work the the male ends i have
https://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/DCSID-1/search/2.1MM_COAX_POWER_PLUG,_SPECIAL_.html

just did some measurements, the jacks have a 1.98mm 5/64" pin inside
 
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hi sir mramos1 can you tell me the process on how to to etch a pcb using injet or laser and also about the photopaper
 
And you resurrected a zombie thread from.. holy crap, 3 1/2 YEARS ago to ask that?
 
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