Not sure but I think I've found a source for island cutters

flat5 · Sep 3, 2014

**broken link removed**

Very inexpensive and free shipping.
3,4,5,6,8 mm for 8.25 Euros.

throbscottle · Sep 3, 2014

Interesting looking things. Do you mean islands for dead bug boards?

jpanhalt · Sep 3, 2014

I don't see any pilot on the things. Might be a bit difficult without a rigid set-up.

John

ronsimpson · Sep 3, 2014

The ones I have; they have a center leg that is longer then the side legs.

flat5 · Sep 3, 2014

Yes I mean making an isolated pad on a copper board,
and yes a drill stand would be needed.

I've never had or used such a tool but from what I've read none have a center guide.

Ronsimpson, can you provide a link to the cutters you have?

jpanhalt · Sep 3, 2014

You will find that a pilot or center pin is needed, unless the drill press is reasonably rigid and the piece you are working on is clamped to the table. In other words, something like a light weight milling machine. The process is similar to using a spade drill. A spade drill without a center pin can be used on wood, e.g., to enlarge a hole, if you hold the piece well and the hole is not too big. However, copper is much harder than wood to machine as it is stringy, and the cutter will grab into it.

For the price, you could buy them and see how they work. They may have some sort of pilot/center pin that is not shown in the pictures.

John

flat5 · Sep 3, 2014

Thank you, I have ordered them and some other types that I hope will do the job.
I have a terrible drill stand but it may help to cut .15 mm of copper making a 6 mm circle.
These orders take weeks. I'll post when I know more.

Do NOT buy this piece of junk!

https://www.banggood.com/Bench-Drill-StandPress-For-Electric-Drill-With-3543mm-Collet-p-925616.html

It is sold by many on-line stores at a VERY wide range of prices.
It's design is overly simple. Metal grinds against metal and the longer you use it the less control over it's movement you have. No amount of polishing or lubricating can improve this thing. Even the locking bolt is so cheap that the threads are stripped and I am looking for a replacement.

throbscottle · Sep 4, 2014

That looks incredibly similar to the one I got from Lidl, which I have not had any problems with apart from a little sideways play. Theirs is made by either Powerfix or Parkside - I don't think you can get those brands anywhere else though.

Maybe yours just needs taking apart and having a liberal application of grease. I love grease, it makes allsorts of things start working again...

throbscottle · Sep 4, 2014

It may be worth looking at plug cutters too - or would that be too big?

flat5 · Sep 4, 2014

throbscottle, I have taken it apart (it comes as a kit) and have polished and oiled, not greased.
If your's is working well then you have not run it up and down 20 times.
Mine is model TS-6109 Drill Stand. No company has put their name on it or the box or pamphlet.
It is from China.
The lateral movement instead of clean up & down grinds the part holding the drill against the pole in two places. (at the top & bottom on opposite sides, front & back)
A simple design but terribly flawed.

throbscottle · Sep 4, 2014

That's a shame. The running surfaces mustn't be smooth then, since even that design shouldn't wear out that quickly. I think mine must have done over 100 holes by now, no noticeable wear. Pretty sure it's made in Ireland.

Inquisitive · Sep 4, 2014

Why does Blarney Stone come to mind? That stuff is invincible.

flat5 · Sep 5, 2014

It's cast aluminum. I have tried polishing it.

I once saw a cartoon where some characters came from the planet Munimula.

(think about it)

Found it

jpanhalt · Sep 5, 2014

flat5 said:
It's cast aluminum. I have tried polishing it.

Aluminum on aluminum or even other metals does not slide well and galls easily; some alloys are particularly bad. I once made an aluminium bolt and nut using a standard fit. Got them screwed together OK, but never got them apart. Graphite in glycerin(?) is made to lubricate threads for aircraft spark plugs. That is steel against aluminum. You might try graphite in an oil, like is used for locks. Not sure how molybdenum would work. I would stay away from it, unless you can find some reliable source that recommends it.

Here is a link that mentions aluminum galling (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galling ).

John

flat5 · Sep 5, 2014

Thanks, John. Interesting link.
The point is that this drill stand is hopeless.

It might be saved by:

"Threaded inserts of hardened steel are often used in metals like aluminum or stainless steel that can gall easily."

atferrari · Sep 6, 2014

throbscottle said:
Maybe yours just needs taking apart and having a liberal application of grease. I love grease, it makes allsorts of things start working again...

As a Ch. Officer, I had clear that in ships, grease comes before painting, always.

flat5 · Sep 6, 2014

I should buy a tube of aluminum grease.

jpanhalt · Sep 6, 2014

Just use plain grease.

In searching for molybdenum grease and aluminum, I came across this reference for the use of graphite on aluminum: https://www.mechanicsupport.com/graphite_antiseize.html Apparently, its use for aircraft spark plugs is an exception. A factoid that may be worth remembering.

John

KeepItSimpleStupid · Sep 6, 2014

I have a pad cutter hand tool from Vector bought not too long ago.

ronsimpson · Sep 6, 2014

What I have is something like the Pad Cutter tool but for a drill press. The drill part is replaceable.

Not sure but I think I've found a source for island cutters

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