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Motorized Treadmill wind maker 97355

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esphix

New Member
I'm trying to repair a Motorized Treadmill of a friend that starts and runs for about a second then loses strength, stops and gives an E1 or E2 message mostly E1.

there's somekind of sensor next to the weel of the motor that i didn't realy test disconecting before i unasembled the board, no ideia if this could be the problem.

i'm guessing the problem is in a big fat 400v560µF(M) rubycon capacitor, but again i'm realy guessin here can anyone give me some tips on how to find the problem or maybe support my theory :)

any help would be nice, ah and no luck with the support team from the seller...

by the way first post, hello everyone.
 

Sceadwian

Banned
What does the error code mean? That's the first place you should start.
 

esphix

New Member
no ideia where to look that up, the user manual supplied barely states how to operate...any info on that?
 

Sceadwian

Banned
Try Google, but you're not likely to find much.
 

esphix

New Member
no luck with the codes yet, i've sent an e-mail for the producer but they state they won't give support...

anyway my theory of the capacitor does anyone think anything about it?

the motor starts and loses power after a second... can it be the 400v capacitor? or there's no logic in that?
 

Sceadwian

Banned
A theory is just that, a theory. You have one.. great, how do you test it? Replace the cap. Then see where you're at =)

Your guessing wildly at this point.
 

ke5frf

New Member
Could be, or it can be a short which is overheating a regulator with current limiting somewhere on the board, or if the motor has brushes, they could be intermittent, the tachometer sensor could be faulty, a mechanical relay, if there is one, could have dirty contacts, or a solder joint could be cold or a loose connector could be the culprit.

It helps to have a schematic and some general info on voltage checks or something.
 

esphix

New Member
thanks for the tips i'll check ...

2 images of the main bord are attached
 

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HiTech

Well-Known Member
there's somekind of sensor next to the weel of the motor that i didn't realy test disconecting before i unasembled the board, no ideia if this could be the problem.

i'm guessing the problem is in a big fat 400v560µF(M) rubycon capacitor, but again i'm realy guessin here can anyone give me some tips on how to find the problem or maybe support my theory

Unlikely to be that large filter capacitor you mention. That sensor next to the motor's pulley is either a reed switch or coil. Look for a small magnet on the motor's pulley. The purpose for those is to count rpms which is then transposed to mph/kph respectively. The magnet may have fell off the pulley thereby setting the error code. As already mentioned, try to find out the error code meaning(s). You also didn't provide us with the brand and model number -- that sometimes helps, ya know!

https://www.treadmilldoctor.com/Motor-Control-Boards is a website that provides some info.
 
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esphix

New Member
made by - LifeGear Taiwan Limited
is a wind maker 97355

The sensor is next to a metal weel with rails so i think the reading must be done on the rails but i'll check for some kind of magnet

thx
 

Sceadwian

Banned
Sounds like a good place to start. If that sensor or whatever triggers it is failed/missing then the treadmill could be trying to start and not getting any feedback, so it thinks there's a fault and shuts down.
 

HiTech

Well-Known Member
made by - LifeGear Taiwan Limited
is a wind maker 97355

The sensor is next to a metal weel with rails so i think the reading must be done on the rails but i'll check for some kind of magnet

thx
The magnet could be recessed into the motor's pulley- look closely just in case... and also look for glue residue that indicates a magnet fell off. The main thing is to try to find what those error codes mean to keep from troubleshooting in the wrong areas and wasting time.
 

#1supertech

New Member
Esphix,

Your PWM Control Brd there may not be a top of the line motor controller, but it does appear to be of better quality then some of the cheaper treadmills I’ve worked on and repaired.

I need a few bits of info from you, as I may be able to get a calibration and/or T/S guide for you with the T/S Error Codes.

To answer a few ?’s you had asked.

The most probable failed board component I’ll address further below, as it’s quite common with most treadmills. The motors rarely go bad except for the normal brush wear. You’d have to be using the treadmill 24/7 for 5-6 years straight to even get close to wearing out a set of motor brushes, or a motor drive belt. That is - unless it’s a really cheaply made treadmill.

Your VCO (Tach pulse) reference coil pickup should be OK unless someone actually tried to reposition it, or it somehow came loose. They never seem to go bad, as all they are is a pulse coil feedback device that sends a reference pulse signal to the VCO circuit. It’s usually tightened in place with a nylon type clamp, and the gap should be roughly 3/16” to 1/4” MAX. It’s not super critical, but yet it has to be close. There are usually 2 magnetic reference points 180 degrees apart on the drum wheel as well.

If the unit can be successfully turned on initially - make sure that the speed select is set all the way down to 1mph or less, and note that it is not stuck in any higher speed mode on startup (as noted on the digital display), and with NO LOAD applied to the walking belt. If the main panel display flashes all LEDS just prior to any Error Code make note of that AND the specific Error Code as well.

Also note if the main walking belt is fairly free to move by hand - on its own - prior to any AC power being applied (check this with the power cord unplugged!!!). It should also be centered on the front and rear rollers so it tracks properly under load. If it pulls to one side or the other then it’s been misadjusted! You may have to manually turn (pull on) the motor’s primary drive belt to check this.

Also - Make sure the belt tensioner is properly positioned as well, and that it’s mounting bracket isn’t bent or loose - thus causing the main motor belt to bind up! If the treadmill was ever dropped in shipment or say in moving from one house to another, or even when folding away in storage then the following may apply.

Check the spring loader for proper operation as well (sometimes they break and cause the motor to partially free spin). It should be tight, but not to the point that it can’t be moved manually. If it was somehow misadjusted by someone then the motor might be binding prematurely, and overloading the motor control current output section.

Everything has to be in sync other wise the unit goes into shutdown mode!

First of all - where did you contact the Mfr online (or was it just a distributor’s email addy? - big difference there)? Does your Operator’s manual there list where the treadmill actually was made (country origin wise - I’m guessing Taiwan anyway), and/or does it give a physical address in the USA or otherwise?

Can you provide an exact Model # & S/N from the back plate sticker located just below the motor bay cover (usually located there)? It has to have both, unless that sticker fell off or was removed by someone.

Can you post a separate pix of the motor bay area showing the drive belt layout? Doesn’t have to be a real close-up shot, but rather just clear in detail. Also - what the voltage rating and horsepower rating are on the DC motor?

Can you also take & post another pix of that PWM control brd facing from the other side where the 3 bigger ceramic sand stone power resistors are located. That large filter cap may even be hiding a 4th power resistor - not sure as I can’t see through that cap.

Btw - that large filter cap is not your problem. I’ve never had one go bad yet!

What is the R value & wattage rating of R82? It is sitting right next to R83 (the 30K 10 watt power resistor)?

Also - what is the R value & wattage rating of that 3rd power resistor to the left of that main filter cap in the pix you posted?

I’ll also need the p/n’s off the D15 Diac, and what is usually the SCR in ? next to it - mounted on the heatsink plane. What is the board reference part # as well for the SCR? The Bridge Rectifier sure is mounted weird on this PWM board you have there. Usually everything POWER DEVICE wise is mounted on the back-plane heatsink, but it looks like they even skimped on that part on your board there.

When you take the 3 tension plate screws off the D15 & SCR? power current devices make sure you don’t over-tighten that retainer plate back on when reassembling!!

Once I see the new pix and get the requested info I asked for we can proceed with the T/S of the PWM board.

Till then…..

Welcome & best regards,

Frank
 

esphix

New Member
first thanks everyone for the input

only yesterday i was able to go look at the machine again

i tried disconecting the sensor and it run for a couple of seconds more, i reconected the sensor and it started. looked good i tested it for i while speed up speed down turn off back on etc... it looked ok i went home.

today i talked to my friend and its back where it was, starts and 1 sec. stops.

hummm i'll get the info requested next time i go there, meanwile i'm thinking replacing that sensor should do the trick,

as for the contacts and support user manual etc, are very poor couple of sheets with basic instructions, the support doesn't exist and the supplier said they would schedule a pick up about 2 months ago and still no news...

made by - LifeGear Taiwan Limited
is a wind maker 97355

and again thanks everyone
 

HiTech

Well-Known Member
Check closely and test continuity in that sensor wire and other wires that could be pinched or rubbing against moving parts. With you fiddling around you could have moved an intermittent connection, causing the treadmill to operate temporarily. Quite often, electro-mechanical devices fail at the interface between the two.
 

lostchain

New Member
dear esphix can you please tell me the value of the green capacitor beside the big fatty capacitor 560uf , or if you have the circuit diagram of this board i would be so thankful if you sent to my email [Mod: Deleted email], this capacitor which make a problem similar to yours when started it remains silence for 1 sec then motor come very fast and give e1 or e3 then i figured out that this capacitor is burned and i can read the pico farad on it , also check the carbon rods if some wear on them just change them because they affect the starting time which also gives e1

[Mod note: Members do not require emails in posts to communicate. They use Start Conversation feature]
 
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lostchain

New Member
that is the problem happened now with my trademill it worked arround 4 y without any single problem this is my 1st problem can you please help me about the value of this capacitor
 
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