Well to late
, i already builded the 2nd sheme and it works... in fact i tested the unit today!!! this is the outcome:
Sow today i hooked up the 2 NPN to pull up the voltage and it worked!
First i connected a bulb(12v 21W) and i could make it glow in such way you you only see the filament being yellow it was working on 1,79Volts
Then offcourse i applied full PWM signal (255) wich means no dips (almost) anymore the light lit up as brightness as it could (checked it with an extra cable from positive to bulb but you coudn't notice it..
Then it was engine time, first i wanted to try with a small engine sow i grabbed my bike starter, i dismanteled it but then it looked like it wasn't a series wounded one sow i didn't like the idea of using it, i closed it up and grabbed the Car Starter..
connected it all up and putted the controller on... when i reached a PWM pulse of 40/50 it started turning but realy realy slow then i gave it some more and soon we where on full power then i turned down again the throttle and it slowed down again... it played abit with the throttle but it looked like the controller etc. worked fine...
BUT!!
When first tried the motor maked a high noise tone like many vorkHeftruck do (the bulky electric cars wich is used to move pallets arround) sow i turned the controller off, to upper a bit the freq i doubled it to 12000Hz we did another run
and again it maked noise but albeit allot higher and nicer... i checked the fets but they gave nothing couldn't notice any heat in them!!!
but then i wanted to do another run a slow run, sow i made a program wich runs from 50PWM to 255 and then shutsdown think it took 30secs..
but then nearly done there came a puff of smoke out the engine! i have dismanteld the motor but coudn't reach the brushes.
anyway thats it!
Facts:
- Controller survived the abuse of a starter motor without load
- controller survived the abuse of shortcircuit in the windings...??
- Motor coudn't survive the testing
The smoke is what me makes think that the windings overheated and are shorted on the other side i coudn't notice nothing on the case of the motor only the part where the brushes where was hot albeit not sow hot that i burned myself (it was the reason i keeped going).
What i did notice was that when on low PWM signal and the first test was at 6kHz that it looked like the brushes sparked, it was better on 12khz
the last longer run the motor was vibrating allot becauseof the fact that my test bence wasn't sow modern sow the motor was laying on the table...
The motor was brandly new (recon unit)
the case never was cant touch it that hot...
The fets never gave everything didn't try the controller after it with a bulb again (to see if was fault or whats sow ever)
Conclusion i guess that the best thing is to buy a normal BIG DC motor also series wounded and connect that shaft to the front piece of the donor shaft sow we can still use the solenoid and the bendix clutch!
my odd feeling says it are the brushes wich just burned or because of the sparking they don't touch enough the rotor anymore...
what also can be a possibility is just that some piece of isulating melted (the positive feed of the motor)...
Anyone ideas????
strange thing is that my motor has a bolt in the axle from his back, sow i have no clue on how to undo it because you barly can hold the shaft to undo the bolt.
Anyway the controller works!!!
i cant feed the chip with 5volts VDD because i don't use it on that board (anyway i could put 2 100R in series and feed that into it, maybe then it also accepts 5volts as high dunno..)
Tks
Sow today i hooked up the 2 NPN to pull up the voltage and it worked!
First i connected a bulb(12v 21W) and i could make it glow in such way you you only see the filament being yellow it was working on 1,79Volts
Then offcourse i applied full PWM signal (255) wich means no dips (almost) anymore the light lit up as brightness as it could (checked it with an extra cable from positive to bulb but you coudn't notice it..
Then it was engine time, first i wanted to try with a small engine sow i grabbed my bike starter, i dismanteled it but then it looked like it wasn't a series wounded one sow i didn't like the idea of using it, i closed it up and grabbed the Car Starter..
connected it all up and putted the controller on... when i reached a PWM pulse of 40/50 it started turning but realy realy slow then i gave it some more and soon we where on full power then i turned down again the throttle and it slowed down again... it played abit with the throttle but it looked like the controller etc. worked fine...
BUT!!
When first tried the motor maked a high noise tone like many vorkHeftruck do (the bulky electric cars wich is used to move pallets arround) sow i turned the controller off, to upper a bit the freq i doubled it to 12000Hz we did another run
and again it maked noise but albeit allot higher and nicer... i checked the fets but they gave nothing couldn't notice any heat in them!!!
but then i wanted to do another run a slow run, sow i made a program wich runs from 50PWM to 255 and then shutsdown think it took 30secs..
but then nearly done there came a puff of smoke out the engine! i have dismanteld the motor but coudn't reach the brushes.
anyway thats it!
Facts:
- Controller survived the abuse of a starter motor without load
- controller survived the abuse of shortcircuit in the windings...??
- Motor coudn't survive the testing
The smoke is what me makes think that the windings overheated and are shorted on the other side i coudn't notice nothing on the case of the motor only the part where the brushes where was hot albeit not sow hot that i burned myself (it was the reason i keeped going).
What i did notice was that when on low PWM signal and the first test was at 6kHz that it looked like the brushes sparked, it was better on 12khz
the last longer run the motor was vibrating allot becauseof the fact that my test bence wasn't sow modern sow the motor was laying on the table...
The motor was brandly new (recon unit)
the case never was cant touch it that hot...
The fets never gave everything didn't try the controller after it with a bulb again (to see if was fault or whats sow ever)
Conclusion i guess that the best thing is to buy a normal BIG DC motor also series wounded and connect that shaft to the front piece of the donor shaft sow we can still use the solenoid and the bendix clutch!
my odd feeling says it are the brushes wich just burned or because of the sparking they don't touch enough the rotor anymore...
what also can be a possibility is just that some piece of isulating melted (the positive feed of the motor)...
Anyone ideas????
strange thing is that my motor has a bolt in the axle from his back, sow i have no clue on how to undo it because you barly can hold the shaft to undo the bolt.
Anyway the controller works!!!
i cant feed the chip with 5volts VDD because i don't use it on that board (anyway i could put 2 100R in series and feed that into it, maybe then it also accepts 5volts as high dunno..)
Tks