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LDR, photodiode or?

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My neighbor yells at his 3 and 4-year old kids the same way and, based on vocabulary he uses, I think the kids hear the same thing as the dog.
Two points to make here:

1. MrDEB is trying to keep the cost low (think zero) and the idea is to use ANY remote. The idea of providing remotes has not been discussed here, and is counter to the zero cost idea.

2. I have commented SEVERAL TIMES that detecting ANY IR signal won't achieve MrDEB's stated goal of selecting between different programs.


An OP's constraints usually don't concern a certain member. The member usually just keeps pounding The same idea and can't understand why the OP is so stubborn or stupid. I'm not even going to review the constrains with him because, well, see one of several quotes attributed to Mark Twain (correctly or incorrectly).
 
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Visitor

1) good point - though I would start with single button (the way that commercial Christmas tree lights work) then add dumb ANY IR remote receiver to it later if wanted.

2) disagree - if you ignore the problem of false triggering, this could work, same way that a single button (pull-up and switch to ground) can cycle through options, but probably unreliably. IR hardware becomes complex though and I suspect that IR would end up as a failed project.

My random advice would be - use phone charger or similar for power, make the LDR circuit work. Once the simple project is fully working and reliable, maybe then think about adding a push button to cycle through different light effects. Once this is working reliably, maybe start thinking about IR control. One step at a time, learning as you go.

Question for anyone with experience of Swordfish - for my own curiosity - does Swordfish come with any IR libraries that are simple to use?
 
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I believe that Swordfish does not have a library for decoding IR (I could be wrong but I don't recall one), so it would require rolling your own.
 
Thanks Visitor - so let's forget intelligent IR decode for now (I can provide working solutions later, but requiring second 8-pin PIC to be added to circuit and more power required)

I vote that we all forget about all forms of IR for now. When MrDEB has achieved an LDR solution and/or a switch solution, then we can maybe assist with improvements.

IMHO - Let's go one step at a time.
 
I haven't given up on the LDR, the remote idea came about on if the Star can be turned on and off remotely IF the Star is on top of the tree thus making remote control an option but it is fading fast.
My goal on this project is KISS
Keep It Simple Stupid
1-low cost
2-low battery consummation if battery only
3-keep weight of finished project low (in case it is installed on tree limb, thus coin cell batteries)
4-remote control would be nice to change the pattern of the LEDs if tree top only
 
Swordfish does not have a library for decoding IR
I posted a IR function for the sony remote about 8 years ago.
Its lost now I think
 
1 to 3 Sounds like a good plan. I will help if I can, but I am limited by only having free version of Swordfish.

Be aware that (Vishay) TSOP1738 requires 4.5 Volt to 5.5 Volt supply and typically 0.6mA. Two CR2032 coin cells might last only 2 weeks even if the rest of the circuitry uses no current.

Good luck....
 
Thanks Visitor - so let's forget intelligent IR decode for now (I can provide working solutions later, but requiring second 8-pin PIC to be added to circuit and more power required)

I vote that we all forget about all forms of IR for now. When MrDEB has achieved an LDR solution and/or a switch solution, then we can maybe assist with improvements.

IMHO - Let's go one step at a time.

Actually, we don't get to vote or decide anything about this project, the direction it takes or how it should be implemented. This is MrDEB's project to do in any way he likes. All we can attempt to do is educate him and try to clarify the shortfalls of his understanding.

As I just commented in my thread asking about high temperature LED use, all-too-often here, there is a tendency to hijack projects, question the reasons for wanting to do something a certain way and even questioning motives.
 
"high temperature LED use" ?
sounds like the TSOP1738 IS NOT A VIABLE OPTION due to current consumption if only using battery power.
The idea of the USB wall wart devices looks better, just need cables.
 
Do you realise that just one 20mA LED will flatten two button cells in about 20 hours.

Mike.
 
Do you realise that just one 20mA LED will flatten two button cells in about 20 hours.

Mike.

Yes, he does. That is why he stated the value of resistors he plans to use in previous posts. Do you realize it is more helpful to read the OPs posts before using phrases that start with "Do you realize..."
 
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"high temperature LED use" ?
sounds like the TSOP1738 IS NOT A VIABLE OPTION due to current consumption if only using battery power.
The idea of the USB wall wart devices looks better, just need cables.

The person getting the gift can easily add their own USB charger, the one that charges their phone too slowly, yeah, the one in the other junk that we don't use any more - pencils, erasers, tape, post-it notes, pens, batteries, staples, phone books, ...

Anyhow, they can simply plug it into the last empty outlet On the strand of LED Christmas lights they've wrapped around the tree. Super easy. Leave the batteries out.

68774BCD-AF51-493D-B5C6-EB43A9681B4D.jpeg
 
Yes, he does. That is why he stated the value of resistors he plans to use in previous posts. Do you realize it is more helpful to read the OPs posts before using phrases that start with "Do you realize..."
Do you realise I was replying to the post directly above where he mentions that the TSOP uses too much current at 0.6mA!!! What a piece of work you are. Please add me to your ignore list.
 
Do you realise I was replying to the post directly above where he mentions that the TSOP uses too much current at 0.6mA!!! What a piece of work you are. Please add me to your ignore list.

Am I too interesting to be on yours?
 
Do you realise I was replying to the post directly above where he mentions that the TSOP uses too much current at 0.6mA!!! What a piece of work you are. Please add me to your ignore list.

Not to enter the fray, but the TSOP draws 6mA. Still, a handful of LEDs is going to be a lot already for a CR2032.
 
Been rethinking my goal and cost of finished project.
Decided to eliminate the IF detector and battery. Cost of battery + cost of holder etc is about the same if I include a wal-wart/usb.
The scenario I want to avoid is the phrase "batteries not included" The USB cable fits under this definition in my book.
Found a pack of 5 USB AC ADAPTER PLUGS W/ 6 FT USB CORD for $22.98 at Amazon. And they say UL approved. I want the person receiving the gift to be able to use out of the box.

as far as too many LEDs I plan to multiplex so the twinkle (yes have done same last year)
 

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