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Latching ON/OFF Circuit with Single-Wire Remote Control & Indication from Multiple Push-Buttons 2015-02-23

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crutschow

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Single Wire PB Controlled Alternate-Action Relay with Remote Indication - Momentary PB controls remote relay ON/OFF with PB LED status indication using a single wire.


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crutschow updated {articleTitle} with a new update entry:

Momentary PB to Gnd controls remote bistable relay circuit with PB LED status using a single wire.


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In the old days we might have used Schmitt NANDs to make a retriggerable one shot and any flip flop or even a CD4040 counter which has the Schmitt Clk input for /2 on the 1st stage, Q1.

CD4040B's are still very cheap. 3M //0,2uF gives a 0.5s monostable pulse.
Make sure to add the reverse coil diode for the relay.
 
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I find circuits like this ingenious, allowing signalling in two directions, somewhat reminiscent of circuits used in telephony. I have a few questions though:

Iam not entirely clear on the functioning of the "PB" as Iam unfamiliar with the circuit symbol used to describe it.

What is the source of power in the "PB"?

Is the mains ground used as the common connection in the circuit?
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I prefer the 4060 as it has extra gates to allow for an onboard oscillator RC or XTAL.
 
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There is mention of a power source in the PB, is it from a battery, do you think?
The power source (V1) is a component of the "Simulated PB Switch" (note the dotted lines) and, as such, is not a component of the latching on/off circuit. I don't use LTSpice very much but don't think it has a timed switch element, so one has to be made from parts, thus the "Simulated PB Switch".
 
I agree, I meant the CD4060 as well
The PB running off Vcc is edge detected using the XOR gate (aka frequency doubler) then uses a monopulse stretcher to debounce then goes into a D FF /2 circuit (aka toggle memory) These are like classic chess moves in these configurations.
 
I had a need for a single button that toggled and the circuit I had worked but was iffy and after messing with it and watch the voltages with a scope, I thought I had it working good, then I disconnected the scope and it started not staying off, if I hooked my Fluke meter to it, it stabilized again, so I added the 100k for the meter and the 4 nf for the scope, may not be needed, and I had noticed that the voltage on the cap had to decay to about 2 for it to switch, so I added the bright white LED to keep the voltage near 2 (zener?) . Now it switches consistently and rapidly and will be put to use in my off road vehicle.
 
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